He said without because he doesn't want any lift from it.. so we talked about ones with no lift
He had a problem.. we gave him a solution

 

That's spilling hairs, low pro brackets that don't add lift are the best way to fix the shackle angle

 

No Lift/Low Pro relocation brackets or build yourself a longer leaf pack.

 

They'll work with any leaf. The leaf has thing to do with the top of the bracket.

He said he didn't want the lift provided by relocation brackets. Without running different leafs there is no other option other than what we've all suggested... He clearly wasn't aware that such a thing existed.

 

edited for being redundant. for some reason i couldn't see there was a 2nd page of posts.

 

waking this up, have a question before I buy relocation brackets...Im assuming its not possible to use the relo brackets with a stock shackle, correct?

 

You can. Might rub on the brackets though.

 

in short there's no way to get "no lift" if I have 90* angles. If I go with the no lift relo brackets, which I am never the less, and a longer shackle coming in at basically 1", I still have lift. Is it possible that I will have NO additional lift because of the angle being fixed? (after brackets and say jks 1" shackle)

 

No that should work. If you have a 90* angle at stock with stock shackles you might not need quite a full inch.

 

You won't be happy if you do. Since you have highly arched springs, they get a lot longer when compressed so the stock shackles will bottom out really easily.

 

I'm sitting at 5" in the rear right now because of the bad angle...not trying to go up any more, I am going to need to do gears and get new rubber if I do. Morgantown WV has terrible roads as well. I'm pretty sure we have a group of pre school trolls that take care of them. And the rear rides like complete doo doo.

 

relocated longer shackles it is.. And for the no lift shackle relo brackets, do I remove the weld nut where the top of the shackle mounts to or no? Both mine are seized up lol.

 

No you don't remove the weld nut, the new ones need it

 

sweet panther pi$$ a week in advance then. I dont mind using heat to persuade the bolts, but the lines are there on the driver side, and that's a little close for me.

 

You can try and get some penetrating oil on the back of the bolt. Either drill a hole in the cone that holds the nut or pull the bumper and go through the nut strip hole. I think there are some pictures on my build page.

You need the nuts as they are the primary support for the shackle relocators. You can cut a window in the cone if you break them loose from the welds.