Looks like I meet to take yolk off, shorten it, the. Cut more off input shaft and and drill /tap more to give this drive shaft more room . It's almost fully collapsed. Anyone else have this issue ? Instructions said just use an XJ front as the rear .

 

I definitely wouldn't drive it like that. One good bump and you could do some damage at either or both ends. That yoke sure looks like its sticking way out, but I'm not familiar with that hnt so I dunno if its supposed to look like that.

 

The IOR new yolk is slide on as far as it will go. I am reading now that several others have the same issue and cut the yolk...

 

id look into finding a shorter ds before cutting the yoke

 

what XJ front is that? 5spd is 1 inch shorter than auto.

 

It's actually my front DS. It's an auto. I will see if I can locate a 5 speed. Thanks

 

Not to hijack your thread, but if I ran a hack n tap on my 98 5 speed with 4.5" lift am I ok with either the auto front shaft or the manual front shaft, and what years should I look for

 

all that work to get a double cardan, and your output bearing is still 6-7 inches away from the first joint...I don't think you did anything wrong, but having the first joint so far away from the bearing makes no sense to me. I would never sell a kit like that. to me it looks like you could cut some more off the output shaft.

 

For manual you will most likely need a V8 ZJ Grand Cherokee front shaft.

 

ya. lots of stress on the output bearing. seems you didnt do the first step of the "hack and tap."

 

I cut it according to the directions .

 

lol HNT install the front shaft is to long, my SYE install the shaft is too short... why couldn't jeep just hook us up from the factory like they did with the front drive line.

 

Did you cut that with the case in the jeep?

 

fixed. trimmed yolk and shaft more.