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extreme tucking

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Old May 18, 2013 | 12:23 AM
  #1  
123456bmx's Avatar
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From: Schaumburg IL
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default extreme tucking

So I've trimmed my front fenders twice now and have it as high as the tire would tuck,but the inner fender seam would slice my tire before full tuck.

Can I cut and fold the inner fender without the jeep falling apart?
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Old May 18, 2013 | 12:39 AM
  #2  
Bossokee's Avatar
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From: Dalton, MA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. 180K miles
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Yes, or even just take a small sledge to it somewhat carefully without taking cuts. moving the axle forward a little helps also.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 12:51 AM
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grayharville's Avatar
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How bout some bump stops? Or roll the edge over with a sledge. I'm having the same issues with mine, I'll just do some bumpstops
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Old May 18, 2013 | 01:07 AM
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i put slits in it with a grinder and beat it over with a hammer.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #5  
BNJeepsta's Avatar
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
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Originally Posted by mr white
i put slits in it with a grinder and beat it over with a hammer.
This. Once you fold it over, bumpstop it.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #6  
JD Cravin's Avatar
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From: Vegas Baby!
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just mark your spot welds like you do in the rear, cut in between them, pound them flat....its easy
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Old May 18, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #7  
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I just took a hammer and beat that seam flat on mine. Didnt have to make any cuts. And then bumpstopped it with hockey pucks. Works great, and the tires don't rub anymore.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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From: Hell, CA
Year: 1989
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Bumpstops are the key.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 04:22 PM
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What size tires are you running?

I spent about 4 hrs today tuning the suspension so when the bumps are mashed, it does not rub anywhere. The front drivers tire is slightly rubbing the washer fluid bottle. Thats how close it is. All seams are mashed, fenders trimmed. 10 in shocks are pretty much max extended and compressed. I have probably over 24 solid hours in setting it up.

As others have said you have to use extended bump stops. I run 33 10.5 stock back spacing and 1.5in spacers. with a solid 3in of lift. When you take your time and do it right, you don't even need a lift. I could drop it two inches and it would flex the exact same.

On the last picture you can see where I mashed the seam flat. This is done to the front and rear. Also you can take a cresent wrench and bend any seams over. This actually strenghtens body panels.

The culvert in the picture is a 36" culvert.


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Last edited by holycaveman; May 18, 2013 at 04:27 PM.
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Old May 20, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #10  
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From: oregon
Year: 1993
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saws all, hammering device, cut off wheel, gloves, and take your time. put bump stops to stop from doing to much damage to anything.

in this pic I checked clearance on the front with 35s had to push in the corner of the front inner fender. at full tilt it still rubbs barely but due to the curve being smoothed out and no sharp object i havent cut a tire down.

keep in mind all these pics were with my 33x12.5s before installing 35s

in this pic you can see i took the seem and folded it in with a hammer and trimmed the bottom of the fender back. once again making sure to remove or smooth out any sharp corners or objects. at full tilt no rubbing on the back of the fender.

and the last two pics show the diferance if you do the tuck and fold in the rear. there is a thread showing how to do this on the forum. i didnt do the cleanest job on this do to me building custom fenders.
before

after

Last edited by stang65; May 20, 2013 at 09:22 AM.
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