the intake temps skyrocket because there is no way to dissipate the heat. It's trapped inside the engine compartment--no airflow or vents. This will help. I opted not to put the hood vents in. SOme say they have great success with the vents.

 

Yes, I have a set of louvers from American Rock Rods waiting for installation. On a previous XJ I had pretty good luck with vents, gold foil tape on the 3 & 4 injectors, along with a Heatshield Products Inferno heat shield strapped to the underside of the intake manifold using stainless ties typically used to secure header wrap.

I've stayed away from the fan mods in the past due to my lack I understanding electricity and the fear of fighting a CEL. I've been doing my homework and I'm feeling more confident with trying the fan mod. My only concern with doing this is feeding electricity back to the ECM along the fan harness. This has me wondering if a diode is a good security blanket. Again, I'm still learning I'm not 100% certain I know what I'm talking about.

 

Follow-up questions:

What size fuse did you use. The diagrams I've see show a 40amp but I'm not seeing anything above 30amp on a 12 gauge wire.

Lastly, there is no need for a diode between the fan and PCM with this mod, correct?

Thanks again.

 

I used a 40 amp/ I think i got it at Oreilly's auto parts....no diode needed.

 

12awg wire will carry 40 amps in automotive chassis wiring of reasonable lengths and the rating for the fuse that protects the wire at the battery can be less but should never exceed the capacity of the wire (40 amps in this case), regardless of what components are in the circuit.

Having said that, I would use a 10awg wire for circuits that are actually going to carry 40amps on a regular basis. Just me -- perhaps I'm too conservative.......