Recheck your drag link and track bar angles and remember the angle is bolt to bolt, easiest would be to take a picture from dead on straight them upload it to me pain and draw the lines

 

Since my caster is perfect and the angles are the same as stock with the drop brackets I would have to say yea they are definitely long enough.

I'll get a pic of the drag link and track bar angles tonight, we use bright yellow masking tape here at the shop I'll just trace the angles with that to show them better.

 

Aight finally got a pic of the drag link/track bar angles, and got one of the control arm angles for good measure.

 

Wheel balance or bent rim is what I suspect. Try borrowing somebody's wheels and rims for a week or so

 

maybe check the lower control arm brackets on the axle and see if the holes the bolt goes through are ovaled out or not. And if you're up for it, get the wobble going a bit and stick your head out the window to see if it looks like the whole axle is moving back and forth or if it is the wheels moving back and forth with the axle staying in place. (I realize this sounds reckless and dumb but if you're as fed up with DW as I was you might try it) It can help narrow down whether it is a steering issue or a suspension link issue.

 

Have you had someone turn the wheel back and forth pretty violently with the jeep off as you check components underneath? This has got to be the most efficient way to check. Tracked down many DW causes this way.

 

Already tried 3 sets of tires and wheels, no significant change.

 

I've never had the lower control arms all the way off, I'll slip them off after this weekend sometime to check. I made my doors removable so looking at the wheels while it's wobbling is easy, it looks as if the axle is staying put and the tires going back and forth.

 

Several times now actually, that's how I found the bad track bar originally. I can't find anything loose doing it, but I havent done it up against a curb as was suggested earlier as curbs that I can get a Cherokee sideways up against is hard to come by around here lol. I'm sure I'll be able to find one this weekend though.


I'm probably just gonna start rebuilding the whole front end and see what happens at this point lol.

 

Oh another idea. Easy to check for bad control arm bushings. 4 wheel drive, low. Foot firmly on the brake. shift from neutral to drive, back to neutral, then into reverse, back to neutral. You might see the axle rotate one way or the other more then the bushings should allow once the torque converter engages then disengages.

 

Nevermind. Just saw you have a 5 speed. Sorry

 

I think I can still do about the same thing with an extra foot working the clutch, pop the rear driveshaft loose so it will send all the power to the front. That definitely sounds like a better way to check the bushings then any way I've tried this far, thanks.

I'm getting ready to head out the door to go get rained on at the beach for the day lol, I'll try the couple ideas y'all have given me when I get back, thanks guys.

 

just a note your running 3.5 lift drop brackets are for 4 inch plus lift you arms are actually sitting 1/2 inch lower than factory which will give you the wobblwe wheel grocery cart affect your also missing the back bracet to control arms drop brackets ...

 

set your caster according to chart here should help....http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

 

The RE CAD brackets are advertised to be right for 5.5" of lift, I'm sitting 6" over stock, not 3.5".