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DW Help

Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:23 AM
  #1  
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Ok so today I dropped the Jeep off at a local alignment shop, its a good local shop the guy knows a ton about aligning vehicles. He took it for a test drive and immediately felt the death wobble. He did a full alignment and adjusted my track bar correctly and took it for another test drive and said he thinks its fixed or at least better. I went and picked it up and it felt great! I was very confident driving the Jeep and even took it down some 50mph bumpy roads and it held up great. Until it happened again so It seems the alignment helped a lot but didn't solve my issue. I called him for his input and he recommended tie rod ends and tightening up my gear box. When I talked to Iron Rock Offroad they recommended replacing my control arm bushings because the rubber has cracks on them and I told this to the alignment guy and he still thinks I should go with what he recommends first.

Can anybody give me there 2 cents on this? Its getting to be pretty frustrating right now!
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:33 AM
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Do not tighten the gear box! The control arm bushings are most likely shot if they are the originals. Is it stock or lifted?

Last edited by Bustedback; Aug 27, 2013 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rdlyn13000
Ok so today I dropped the Jeep off at a local alignment shop, its a good local shop the guy knows a ton about aligning vehicles. He took it for a test drive and immediately felt the death wobble. He did a full alignment and adjusted my track bar correctly and took it for another test drive and said he thinks its fixed or at least better. I went and picked it up and it felt great! I was very confident driving the Jeep and even took it down some 50mph bumpy roads and it held up great. Until it happened again so It seems the alignment helped a lot but didn't solve my issue. I called him for his input and he recommended tie rod ends and tightening up my gear box. When I talked to Iron Rock Offroad they recommended replacing my control arm bushings because the rubber has cracks on them and I told this to the alignment guy and he still thinks I should go with what he recommends first.

Can anybody give me there 2 cents on this? Its getting to be pretty frustrating right now!
It's difficult to know without being under the jeep and being able to pry around and see where the slack is. If the tie rods have slack...that's a good place to start. Taking slack out of the gear box is ok but be careful...it's very easy to over do it. Every time that I have ever taken slack out of gear boxes, they tend to develop leaks as well...by the time a gear box has that much slack, it's usually well on it's way out. Cracks in the control arm bushings, without any slack in them, would be my last guess. ..... My opinion only - mileage may vary.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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It has a 3" lift I just installed, new adjustable track bar, new stabalizer shock, new axel ujoints, new hubs, new calipers/rotors/pads, new front tires, I feel like im missing something...

Maybe I will try the tie rod ends, which ones should I got with? Or is it better to upgrade the tie rod as well?
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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155,000 miles
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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Adjustable lower arms will help get the castor into spec.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
Do not tighten the gear box! The control arm bushings are most likely shot if they are the originals. Is it stock or lifted?
Yes 3" lift and when I look at my control arm bushings the ruber is cracked on all of them. Do you think this is the issue? Or tie rod ends or both?
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rdlyn13000

Yes 3" lift and when I look at my control arm bushings the ruber is cracked on all of them. Do you think this is the issue? Or tie rod ends or both?
Do you still have the factory stamped steel control arms? Those cracked bushings are definitely a problem. If you still have the factory arms i would go with the above recommendation of adjustable arms. You really need to have a buddy turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look for any slop under there. If your steering box is bad that wouldn't surprise me. I had a defective reman box that when you would take a pry bar to it you could see the pitman arm wiggle up and down. Very bad!.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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You definitely need new arms. Lower adjustables would be what you want and new stock uppers would be fine, although I'd go with new adjustables there too. Cause I'm sure the bushings are shot in both, since they sound original
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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If you have a 3" lift then the geometry of the adjustable track arm is off. You need a longer pitman arm to compensate.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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Something that I ran into on my 92 XJ, was issues with the adjustable track bar. U could never get it adjusted right, so I went back to a solid bar. I also found that even though it looked solid, I had apparently developed a crack in my upper TB bracket, and the death wobble hit me again, about a month down the line, when it split in two.

After going through TB, Ball Joints, tie rods, etc., the front end is new, and she runs like a champ.

Word of warning: if you've had some severe DW for awhile, I'd check into replacing your hub assemblies. Mine we're just changed before the DW started, and they were shot all to hell, in no time.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by CoffeeCommando
You need a longer pitman arm to compensate.
Not necessarily true.....
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ

Not necessarily true.....
If you add a longer arm you need a tb drop bracket or you're just installing bump steer.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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Control arms and bushings are original along with tie rod ends.

If I do tie rod ends should I do a new tie rod as well? Or will I be ok reusing the original?
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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have someone wiggle the steering wheel with the jeep on the ground while you look under it to see what is moving. What ever is moving that shouldnt is your problem.

You guys always ask this stuff over and over again and all people can do with a keyboard is guess what it might be. Go out and actually take a look at it we cant diagnose if for you.

Check your track bar steering linkage control arms ect, all the bushings and bolts. check your steering box bolts and track bar bracket as well to be sure none of it is moving.
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