Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
All modified tech questions. If it modifies your XJ beyond stock parts ask it here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Durango Box Swap Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-07-2016, 07:26 PM
  #1  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default Durango Box Swap Help

I'm in the middle of doing the durango swap, got a reman box from rockauto Part# LARES 1353 - Double checked and it's for the 99 Durango V8 WITHOUT snow plow. I know that there are essentially 4 ways to put it on for each master key (90 degree at each rotation). But for some reason the pitman arm does not seem like it wants to snug up closer to the gear box. I even placed the tie rod end into the other end of the pitman arm to turn on it and I was applying enough force that the I heard the tires wanting to move. The bolt from the gearbox doesn't even protrude from the nut.

From the other pictures I have seen it looks like the arm should be pressed up into the gear box more.



Old 12-08-2016, 06:03 AM
  #2  
Junior Member
 
Force's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Hamilton,Mt
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
Default

I just did this swap on Sunday. I had no problems and the threads are below the nut on the pitman arm by about 1/8" when everything was tightened up.
Are you sure that the steering output shaft on the box was centered before you connected up the steering shaft? The flat should be up on the splined steering shaft.
It may have gotten turned a few rounds by some one. It should be 3 turns lock to lock on the Durango box. So, 1 1/2 turns should be the center. The flat should then be up on the splined steering output shaft. I would pull your pitman back off, connect the steering shaft up and turn the steering wheel both ways lock to lock and check it.
My pitman went right on and tightened up perfectly.
Also, make sure you space the Durango box with some washers or it will hit hit the frame and not tighten up properly. I only used one washer per bolt and it was perfect.
Good luck!
Old 12-08-2016, 09:54 AM
  #3  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

Originally Posted by Force
I just did this swap on Sunday. I had no problems and the threads are below the nut on the pitman arm by about 1/8" when everything was tightened up.
Are you sure that the steering output shaft on the box was centered before you connected up the steering shaft? The flat should be up on the splined steering shaft.
It may have gotten turned a few rounds by some one. It should be 3 turns lock to lock on the Durango box. So, 1 1/2 turns should be the center. The flat should then be up on the splined steering output shaft. I would pull your pitman back off, connect the steering shaft up and turn the steering wheel both ways lock to lock and check it.
My pitman went right on and tightened up perfectly.
Also, make sure you space the Durango box with some washers or it will hit hit the frame and not tighten up properly. I only used one washer per bolt and it was perfect.
Good luck!
I'll check this out today but how would the position of the output shaft effect how far the pitman arm goes up on the other shaft? The output shaft is keyed so I was only able to attach it one way. I did remove the pitman arm already so as it sits right now I can turn my wheel freely in all directions so I'll make sure I turn it lock to lock and get it centered up before reattaching the arm. When installing the box I went with the C-Rok durango box spacer so I wouldn't have to worry about the washers.

I don't understand why it's not wanting to match up any tighter... did you use an impact to get it up there more?
Old 12-08-2016, 11:30 AM
  #4  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

Got the wheel center and cleaned up the splines on both pieces. Applied some lithium grease to both ends and cranked it back on it. Got it to cinch up a little bit more but not much. Enough now so at least the bolt is sticking out of the nut by a hair. In the middle of a motor swap at the same time so I won't know if its a death trap just yet. Once I get the motor finished up I'll just drive it around the neighborhood a bunch make sure I do as many full turns both ways as possible and keep rechecking tightness.


Old 12-08-2016, 02:56 PM
  #5  
Junior Member
 
Force's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Hamilton,Mt
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Jakers
I'll check this out today but how would the position of the output shaft effect how far the pitman arm goes up on the other shaft? The output shaft is keyed so I was only able to attach it one way. I did remove the pitman arm already so as it sits right now I can turn my wheel freely in all directions so I'll make sure I turn it lock to lock and get it centered up before reattaching the arm. When installing the box I went with the C-Rok durango box spacer so I wouldn't have to worry about the washers.

I don't understand why it's not wanting to match up any tighter... did you use an impact to get it up there more?
Nope I didn't use an impact on mine.
It tightened up fairly easily, then I stuck a socket on a breaker bar and tightened it up. I'll post a picture of how far mine is on once I get home from work.
Old 12-08-2016, 06:48 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
 
Force's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Hamilton,Mt
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
Default

Ok snapped a picture of my pitman
Name:  9e40ebc444dd1ab32418fae13cf87769.jpg
Views: 296
Size:  732.1 KB
Mine went on super easy.
Old 12-08-2016, 07:11 PM
  #7  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

Originally Posted by Force
Ok snapped a picture of my pitman

Mine went on super easy.

Lucky! Wish mine looked like that. Stock Pitman arm? I had to cut my old one off (to send the box in for core) so I ordered an ominxada
Old 12-09-2016, 05:14 AM
  #8  
Junior Member
 
Force's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Hamilton,Mt
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Jakers
Lucky! Wish mine looked like that. Stock Pitman arm? I had to cut my old one off (to send the box in for core) so I ordered an ominxada
Nope not stock, it's a Rough Country arm.
I'd say you are good as long as you locktited the nut on and it's tight as hell.
My Durango box steers a bit differently than the stock XJ box.
It's nice and easy in the center and a bit stiff on curves or hard turns to the left or right.
I like it better than the stock box.
Old 12-09-2016, 06:50 PM
  #9  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

Originally Posted by Force
Nope not stock, it's a Rough Country arm.
I'd say you are good as long as you locktited the nut on and it's tight as hell.
My Durango box steers a bit differently than the stock XJ box.
It's nice and easy in the center and a bit stiff on curves or hard turns to the left or right.
I like it better than the stock box.
I'm excited to test it out. Won't be for a while though engine swap taking longer than expected lol
Old 12-10-2016, 07:01 AM
  #10  
CF Veteran
 
bad_idea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pasquotank, NC
Posts: 1,679
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

You know the pitman arm nut gets torqued to 300 lbs or so right? For a nut/bolt setup to be correct, there should be at least 2 threads protruding from the nut. It may not fail, but I wouldn't feel comfortable driving it like that.
Old 12-10-2016, 07:10 AM
  #11  
Junior Member
 
Force's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Hamilton,Mt
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by bad_idea
You know the pitman arm nut gets torqued to 300 lbs or so right? For a nut/bolt setup to be correct, there should be at least 2 threads protruding from the nut. It may not fail, but I wouldn't feel comfortable driving it like that.
Pitman Shaft Nut- 185 ft. lbs.
Old 12-10-2016, 09:52 AM
  #12  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

Originally Posted by bad_idea
You know the pitman arm nut gets torqued to 300 lbs or so right? For a nut/bolt setup to be correct, there should be at least 2 threads protruding from the nut. It may not fail, but I wouldn't feel comfortable driving it like that.
I am a little leary of driving it but if looked at other posts for Cherokees and wranglers and from what I gather it's a tapered shaft so it can only go on so far. My torque wrench only goes to 150 and I've torqued it well over that mark. My garage floor is epoxyed but as I was turning the night my tires were moving as well. Once my engine swap is complete I'll get it outta the garage and drive it around my HOA and recheck tightness.
Old 12-10-2016, 10:07 AM
  #13  
CF Veteran
 
bad_idea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pasquotank, NC
Posts: 1,679
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

The wheels shouldn't be turning while torque that nut assuming the steering lock works. If the steering lock isn't working, turn the wheels all the way to the one side. I would suggest you get a torque wrench that will register 180 ft lbs. 0-250 would be ideal. The steering output shaft is indeed tapered. If the arm wont go further up the shaft, something isn't right. Perhaps a pitman arm for a Durango would engage the shaft better.
Old 12-10-2016, 10:14 AM
  #14  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

Originally Posted by bad_idea
The wheels shouldn't be turning while torque that nut assuming the steering lock works. If the steering lock isn't working, turn the wheels all the way to the one side. I would suggest you get a torque wrench that will register 180 ft lbs. 0-250 would be ideal. The steering output shaft is indeed tapered. If the arm wont go further up the shaft, something isn't right. Perhaps a pitman arm for a Durango would engage the shaft better.
I didnt think the Durango arm would work from what I gathered. The steering lock has worked before but I cant figure out how to engage it again. Figured its because half of my engine is out Lol. I did just order a different pitman arm though, Crown Automotive. So Im hoping its the arm and not the gearbox.
Old 12-10-2016, 10:53 AM
  #15  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Jakers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Default

New pitman arm should be delivered on the 16th. Bittersweet I suppose. If it's the pitman arm then I'll still have to pay another $50 to get the tie rod end reamed to fit my 1-ton upgrade. If it's the gearbox I'll have to deal with pulling the old one, returning it, waiting for the credit and then order a new one, then return the newly purchased pitman arm lol. Luckily I still had 6 days left to process the return for the gearbox from rockauto! So I got the return processed and it's good till Dec 24th. So I'll have to pull my pitman arm before the 16th, when the new one arrives throw it on and see how it fits and If I run into any issue get the gearbox out and mailed off. I'll rent autozones torque wrench out since it's capable of going to the ft/lbs required.

I thought I read somewhere it was bad to turn the wheels in one directions and tighten up the pitman arm on the shaft? Although I guess I don't have much of a choice since I can't get the steering wheel to lock.

Last edited by Jakers; 12-10-2016 at 11:00 AM.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:18 AM.