Originally Posted by 99 Purple XJ

Here is the latest re-cap of what we have found:


Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. Bastard Pack: Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift) i.e. S10, Dakota
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (must be from JK Rubicon, will require Bar Pin Eliminators)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. WJ rear sway bar end-links = minor fab to fit 3-4" lift
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Ford Exploder rear sway-bar links = may be good for 3-4" lift
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ


Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts), some dispute
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer
9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle

Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos
3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder
6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts
7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in
8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation
9. G80 LSD locker from '90s Turbo Volvo with D30 rear for XJ front D30 (beware with larger tires)

Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required
8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)
9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar
10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer
11. Ford Bonco II (thats the little one like a ranger) Front Swaybar = good for 3-4" lift

Engine/Transmission/T-case:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. Mopar 136Amp Alternator, bolt it (slight grinding required) found in: 97-98 Dodge Full Size Van, 97-1998 Dodge Dakota, 98 Dodge Durang0, 97-98 Dodge Ram, 97-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response
7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing), good upgrade from AX-5
8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance ('89+ 4.0L only, must be from AX-15 tranny)
10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds
11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)
13. NV241-OR (from TJ Rubicon only) = near bolt in, 4:1 low range
14. Doubler Options : NP231/NP231, NP231/D300,


Body/Interior/Armor:
1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in
3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.
7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!
8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's not the same as a Country Edition)
10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's
11. ZJ skid plates = require slight modification, but can be made to work
12. Wheels from XJ, ZJ, TJ, YJ, Explorer, Magnum Steelies (17x7) (any with 5x4.5 bolt pattern) will fit....CJ, WJ, WK, KK, JK, Full-Size Ford 5 bolt rims will NOT fit
13. TJ Fender Flares (front and rear or rear all the way around)
14. Grand Cherokee center console lid = sits higher, but gives rear passengers cupholders

*view following posts for more details.....and feel free to ask questions and as always....SEARCH!!!

**Also Blazin Den has made a list of links to build threads for us! Recap with Links!

Originally Posted by lipripper

all i did was add a 2%( 2 degree really/ stupid keyboard) wedge under the rear leafs and it helped removing the small vibration between 35-45 while accelerating(slowly or rapidly)
It has kind of been trial and eror with the leafs.1st i used the 2nd longest set off of the ram,and it gave me 4.5"(no joke),so i started looking for shocks that long and realized that the driveshaft was too steep.So i took the 2nd longest and replaced with the 3rd longest and ended up with my 3".Drove it for a few miles and realized i had a strong vibration while accelerating,and even a small vibe when barely on the gas,so i went with the wedges and it solved my vibes.
i will have more time this weekend to post pics of what we did to it.I did buy a skyjacker add-a-leaf to start with,but realized how closethe springs off the dodge ram were,and went experimenting.took the skyjacker 2" lift kit back!!

Originally Posted by ericfx1984

this is not my original thought but rather a collection of research I have done online...


Parts needed

front coils

89-97 T-bird/Cougar springs V6 or V8, either will work... but the v8 is a little stiff (cost around $20 or less at the bone yard...

notes: you will need to make a coil adapter or mod the coil bucket top from the donor T-bird

Thunderbird Coils - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association

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rear lift...

there are a few cheap options for this...

option 1 (the cheapest) : S10 bastard pack

pros: CHEAP!

cons: could be a little more flexy, can be a little rough, but not too bad

cost: around $30 for donor leafs, up to $60 for hardware (u bolts, center pin, spring clamps)


Option 2 (flexy beast): XJ/XJ bastard pack, with Superior Automotive $30 shackle (13-4100) can be purchased at almost ANY autoparts store

notes: similar to the S10 bastard pack but not as much lift in the spring, and has a longer shackle, as a result it will FLEX like mad!

cost: $30 more than the s10 bastard pack

S10 Springs "Bastard Pack" - Jeep Cherokee Forum


Superior Automotive/2 pcs. rear lowering shackle kit (13-4100) | Suspension Lift/Lower Kit | AutoZone.com

NOTES: your leaf springs and shackle bolts should be tightened with your Jeep on the ground! and should only be torqued to around 65 ft/lbs

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Shocks:

Jeep JK Rubicon shocks

cost: free-$50 take off

these are good for 2"-5" maybe more with extensions or bar pin eliminators

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now you need to worry about tuning the front end

problem 1 your caster is WAY OFF!!!

this is fixed by shimming the lower control arms... shims can be made from metal, or plastic cutting board material and can be stacked... they can also be found in XJs in the bone yard

however, stock arms will limit your front axle down travel, as a result you might want to clearance the axle side lower control arm mount, or get a set of after market lower control arms...

NOTE: a better option would be new lower control arms that are adjustable, or at the very least lengthened, cost can very... expect to pay around $130 for a set of fixed control arms for 3-4 lift

cheap option would be to purchase a set of used JK front uppe and lower control arms for around $50 a set



Problem 2: front axle shift

easy fix... and if you lifted your Jeep then you do have it...

Trackbar re-mount

they also sell a trackbar drop bracket...


Problem 3: Alignment

easy to do at home

Alignment


you might have some rear drive line vibes... if so you need to shim the rear axle and install a transfer case drop...

TCase spacers


you will also need longer brake lines: brake lines from 95 yj (front) 96 dakota (rear)



if you are looking to go above 4" you could do the s10 pack and a shackle, as well as a coil spacer on to of the front springs...

however you will have no choice but to get lower control arms, anything over 5" and you have to get uppers as well...

you also will need a new track bar and it would be best to go double shear

there will also be issues with the rear drive line, you will need a slip yoke eliminator...

Originally Posted by Me

So I have a: NP231 (272) transfer case, and an 8.25 rear axle, Dana 35 front
BRAKE LINES:
- Rear soft brake lines and Ebrake cables 95 wrangler rear line for an extra 3", or a dakota rear line for an extra 6"
-
COILS:
- 91 thunderbird today and they were 18 inches freestanding. The 87 coils were only 16 inches.
- F150 coils
SPRINGS:
- S-10/Dakota most pop
- XJ very flexy- not as tall
-
SHOCKS:
- JK the stock take-off offer 3-4in of lift, 5in if you use barpin eliminators.
- S10 rear shocks for the back
SYE : (for in my understanding 3.5/4+ inches of lift)
- “The worst possible setup you can have is a 96+ with an auto transmission, a NP242 transfer case, and an 8.25 rear axle. This combo makes for a long drivetrain and the 8.25 pinion housing is also quite long. These factors will leave you with a short rear driveshaft and even a 2" lift will see negative effects from it.”

Originally Posted by The JRod

Anyone know if the front coils off Ford Rangers net any lift? Sorry to thread Jack btw! Thanks