Zack92MJ

Well here it goes. Im not really as dumb as I look but still.. So basically I'm really broke. And looking to do a legit 3 inch lift. Not spacers or blocks or crap like that. I really want to go the junk yard rout...And I picked 3 inches because I'm lazy and I heard when you go with 4+ you have to start dropping the Tcase and pitmen arms and stuff like that. SO as I ramble on here, I'm just looking for some help or info on the best way to go about doing a legit lift. And not something junky. But hey, cheap and easy is right up my ally...So please dont give me the "search button speak" since I have and this is a forum, where you ASK questions.

Thanks in advance,
-Zack

Zack92MJ

OH and when I do, my lift I plan to make a thread with LOTS of pictures hopefully to be made a sticky and help out other people, who are a little slow like me

99 Purple XJ

Here is the latest re-cap of what we have found:


Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. Bastard Pack: Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift) i.e. S10, Dakota
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (must be from JK Rubicon, will require Bar Pin Eliminators)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. WJ rear sway bar end-links = minor fab to fit 3-4" lift
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Ford Exploder rear sway-bar links = may be good for 3-4" lift
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ


Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts), some dispute
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer
9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle

Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos
3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder
6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts
7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in
8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation
9. G80 LSD locker from '90s Turbo Volvo with D30 rear for XJ front D30 (beware with larger tires)

Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required
8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)
9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar
10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer
11. Ford Bonco II (thats the little one like a ranger) Front Swaybar = good for 3-4" lift

Engine/Transmission/T-case:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. Mopar 136Amp Alternator, bolt it (slight grinding required) found in: 97-98 Dodge Full Size Van, 97-1998 Dodge Dakota, 98 Dodge Durang0, 97-98 Dodge Ram, 97-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response
7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing), good upgrade from AX-5
8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance ('89+ 4.0L only, must be from AX-15 tranny)
10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds
11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)
13. NV241-OR (from TJ Rubicon only) = near bolt in, 4:1 low range
14. Doubler Options : NP231/NP231, NP231/D300,


Body/Interior/Armor:
1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in
3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.
7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!
8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's not the same as a Country Edition)
10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's
11. ZJ skid plates = require slight modification, but can be made to work
12. Wheels from XJ, ZJ, TJ, YJ, Explorer, Magnum Steelies (17x7) (any with 5x4.5 bolt pattern) will fit....CJ, WJ, WK, KK, JK, Full-Size Ford 5 bolt rims will NOT fit
13. TJ Fender Flares (front and rear or rear all the way around)
14. Grand Cherokee center console lid = sits higher, but gives rear passengers cupholders

*view following posts for more details.....and feel free to ask questions and as always....SEARCH!!!

**Also Blazin Den has made a list of links to build threads for us! Recap with Links!

Ianf406

click the link in my signature and find one in your price range!

Ianf406

** zone offroad makes a full kit for like 300$
rough country is close to that

and 99.. thats a pretty sweet list

BrofessorXJ

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit

That is the kit I decided on for my first lift. I've head only good things about Rustys and everyone said I would be really happy with it. I was considering the Rough Country 3" lift until I saw the $45 dollar shipping and handling fee.

Zack92MJ

Yeah purple I got that list too..I also have the one from Jeepforum with all the write up links in em too. I guess my question is, what needs to happen when I lift my Heep? I mean Jeep. Lol


And thanks but no thanks. Just getting this out of the ways now.

I do NOT care how stiff my ride is, and I will NOT by a kit from a site. (Unless its a really really really really good deal) I'd rather pay more and do it my self than buy a kit. But that's just me. Lol I'm weird.

Zack92MJ

I'm on my phone ..

lipripper

find leaf springs out of a 90's model dodge ram 1500.I got 3" of lift by adding one leaf spring to the current pack.great ride ,too.but i did have to replaceshocks so they would reach.I even found a way to do it without removing the leaf spring eye bolts.my jeep build will be posted soon

Qroberts7

Go here www.xtremeterrain.com best prices I've seen so far

MPdaddy

i started with 3" coils and add a leaf when i started the lift process on my 95 cherokee. The kit was $299 and im in memphis so i drove up to dyersburg to save the shipping fee. It was worth it to get the kit with the control arms. And from there i wanted more and more. I now sit on a 6.5 coil, adjustable trac bar, adjustable control arms, control arm drop brackets, upgraded steering stablizer, 4.5 rear leaf packs, 2" rear shackles. Im about to put in the SYE and rebuilt driveshaft.

mr white

RC is a vendor here and they give you a 10% discount. Look in the vendor marketplace for details.

Zack92MJ

Really? That's like exactly what I want. Did you have to drop the tcase or get/do anything like that?

lipripper

all i did was add a 2%( 2 degree really/ stupid keyboard) wedge under the rear leafs and it helped removing the small vibration between 35-45 while accelerating(slowly or rapidly)
It has kind of been trial and eror with the leafs.1st i used the 2nd longest set off of the ram,and it gave me 4.5"(no joke),so i started looking for shocks that long and realized that the driveshaft was too steep.So i took the 2nd longest and replaced with the 3rd longest and ended up with my 3".Drove it for a few miles and realized i had a strong vibration while accelerating,and even a small vibe when barely on the gas,so i went with the wedges and it solved my vibes.
i will have more time this weekend to post pics of what we did to it.I did buy a skyjacker add-a-leaf to start with,but realized how closethe springs off the dodge ram were,and went experimenting.took the skyjacker 2" lift kit back!!

Vincenza V

Subscribing. I want to hear more from Lipripper to on how thing are now (vibs at all or GTG).