Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
All modified tech questions. If it modifies your XJ beyond stock parts ask it here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Doing upgrades for wheeling need info/HELP!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-11-2011, 08:04 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Question Doing upgrades for wheeling need info/HELP!

I am LOOKING for a little INFORMATION on some upgrades that i want to do!......

So i own a 1997 jeep cherokee 4x4, Auto, 4.0L with a 3 inch lift.

The PLANS that i have are below! and the questions will be below them.

Rough Country (6.5 inch Long Arm Lift)
Rough Country ( Shackle Relocation Kit)
Rough Country ( Dual Steering Stabilizer Kit)
Rough Country ( Slip Yoke Eliminator ) I do not know if i need this????
Rough Country (Jeep XJ [6cyl/Auto] Long Arm CV Rear Driveshaft )

BFG (33/12.50/R15 km2 mud tires)
Rough Country ( 15x10 black steel rims.)

THE QUESTIONS I HAVE ARE!?!?!?!?!

1: Should i go long arm? I am wanting to go camping/ rock crawling.

2: Will my stock axles be able to handle rock crawling? I will be doing very minor rock crawling but i would like it to be able to handle it.

3: Do i need a sye? They ask me if i need/want it????

4: Where should i buy my front/rear drive shafts? i do believe i will need a new front and rear because i will be lifting it 6 inchs.

5: is there anything i can buy/use to better the jeeps drive train for minor rock crawling/ minimal mudding?

6: if there is anything i might have missed or need to know please tell me so i wont be buying/using the wrong stuff. I am use to mudding..Which = alot of motor good tires and hit the gas...

Old 09-11-2011, 08:15 PM
  #2  
Newbie
 
MiniHulk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

SYE is a must you have to have one if going over 4-5 inches of lift. The long arms are nice for the articulation, but you can get away with a short arm kit. Your stock axles will handle it up to a certain point, you just have to know the limits and when to quit stepping on the throttle. There are companies that make Dana 30 upgrade kits. I have a single steering stabilizer which is enough and in my opinion two is not needed till 35's and larger then I would just get a ram assist at that point. Tires KM2's are awesome. I have them on my cherokee. They stick to everything. Last thing is your gears, go to atleast 4.10's nothing more than that is not really needed. As for drive shafts I know Tom Woods drive shafts have a lifetime warranty.
Old 09-11-2011, 08:20 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by MiniHulk
SYE is a must you have to have one if going over 4-5 inches of lift. The long arms are nice for the articulation, but you can get away with a short arm kit. Your stock axles will handle it up to a certain point, you just have to know the limits and when to quit stepping on the throttle. There are companies that make Dana 30 upgrade kits. I have a single steering stabilizer which is enough and in my opinion two is not needed till 35's and larger then I would just get a ram assist at that point. Tires KM2's are awesome. I have them on my cherokee. They stick to everything. Last thing is your gears, go to atleast 4.10's nothing more than that is not really needed. As for drive shafts I know Tom Woods drive shafts have a lifetime warranty.

Ok so sye is for sure, and i will be running 33s for sure cause i dont wanna trim nothing as of right now.

Any other imput is great guys!!!!
Old 09-12-2011, 07:19 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Ok well I will be sticking with the 6.5" rc long ARM lift, but where should I get a new front drive shaft.
Old 09-12-2011, 07:58 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
brookhart63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: cedar rapids
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 ohh
Default

Unless you keep the sway bar connected your going to need to trim bud. Why have long arms if you cant flex? Go with a bunch of cutting or cut out flares to keep it looking pretty.
Old 09-12-2011, 10:32 PM
  #6  
CF Veteran
 
andrewmp6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

Look in your local phone book for a drive shaft shop or a big diesel repair shop.I have had a few drive shafts made at a diesel shop here they did good work.When you order the drive shaft just let them know you did a slip yoke eliminator.
Old 09-13-2011, 01:58 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

The kit comes with quick disconects plus I think I am going to have about 8 inches of lift. Ima go with rc 6.5" long ARM lift, rc shackle relocation brackets, and 1.5" coil spacer. So with 6.5 lift it says 33s recommended and 35s with trimming. So the shackles relocation kit and spacer will add another 1.5" of lift giving me 8" of lift total.
Old 09-13-2011, 02:27 PM
  #8  
CF Veteran
 
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

That's way to much lift for rock crawling 6.5" is the highest I would go! You shouldn't need a new front shaft for 6.5" of lift, but the sye is a must. Even 35"s will look small on a 8" lift! Lol
Old 09-13-2011, 02:30 PM
  #9  
CF Veteran
 
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Oh & 4.10 gears are about right for 33" tires, but eventually your gonna want 35"s so you might as well regear to 4:56 the first time.
Old 09-13-2011, 04:16 PM
  #10  
CF Veteran
 
ericfx1984's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
Default

my answers are in red

Originally Posted by chrisquested
THE QUESTIONS I HAVE ARE!?!?!?!?!

1: Should i go long arm? I am wanting to go camping/ rock crawling.

YES


2: Will my stock axles be able to handle rock crawling? I will be doing very minor rock crawling but i would like it to be able to handle it.

not if you have a d35 rear end...


3: Do i need a sye? They ask me if i need/want it????


YES you do

4: Where should i buy my front/rear drive shafts? i do believe i will need a new front and rear because i will be lifting it 6 inchs.


just the rear should be fine


5: is there anything i can buy/use to better the jeeps drive train for minor rock crawling/ minimal mudding?


lockers?

6: if there is anything i might have missed or need to know please tell me so i wont be buying/using the wrong stuff. I am use to mudding..Which = alot of motor good tires and hit the gas...



I would skip the 10" wide wheels and run 8" wide...

I would do a 4.5" lift and minor fender trimming...

are you planning to regear your axles?

Old 09-13-2011, 04:18 PM
  #11  
CF Veteran
 
ericfx1984's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
Default

Originally Posted by chrisquested
So the shackles relocation kit and spacer will add another 1.5" of lift giving me 8" of lift total.
not every time... your shackle relocation could even loose lift if your shackle angle is bad enough...
Old 09-13-2011, 06:35 PM
  #12  
Junior Member
 
XSXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Littleton
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Default

If you're going to be doing any rock-crawling, I would advise you to go with Chromolly axles in the front. I agree with the thought that a rear dana 35 axle will NOT hold up (to much of anything), so check to see what rear axle you have. Worst-case scenario, you coul find a good 8.8 out of a ford explorer and replace yours with it for probably a couple hundred. A lot of 8.8 rear-ends come with the trac-lock 'locker' as well. Those two upgrades would handle 33's without any issue in any situation you'll get into. (I ran 36" Irocks for a while with that axle combo & never had an issue). Take a look at my pics - I run about 8.5" of lift with 40" tires.. and a lot of fender cutting (and, and, and...).
Old 09-14-2011, 05:00 AM
  #13  
CF Veteran
 
jcwclm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Warsaw, IN
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000,1990,1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Lifting it sky high still doesn't open your wheelwells.
Old 09-15-2011, 01:02 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Hmm well this build will take just a little more time to build than I thought. But its all good I am going to just stick with the 6.5" rc lift and 33s. Why is it that I use 8" wide time instead of 10" wide?.

This jeep is going to be built to go to the beach, mud, very minor rock crawling, and used to drive on the weekends. Also when I say rock crawl I don't mean like climbing a mountain I mean like driving on creek beds, water crossings and some nice size hills with rocks that my stock jeep can't climb on/ over.
Old 09-15-2011, 05:00 AM
  #15  
CF Veteran
 
jcwclm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Warsaw, IN
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000,1990,1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by chrisquested
Hmm well this build will take just a little more time to build than I thought. But its all good I am going to just stick with the 6.5" rc lift and 33s. Why is it that I use 8" wide time instead of 10" wide?.

This jeep is going to be built to go to the beach, mud, very minor rock crawling, and used to drive on the weekends. Also when I say rock crawl I don't mean like climbing a mountain I mean like driving on creek beds, water crossings and some nice size hills with rocks that my stock jeep can't climb on/ over.

How wide of tire you going to run. That's what matters when finding rim width.


Quick Reply: Doing upgrades for wheeling need info/HELP!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:58 PM.