Disc questions.
#1
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Disc questions.
I am having a newb moment.
I've almost got every collective piece of hardware for my rear disc swap for my '91 XJ. It of course has the D35.
I am getting mixed messages in the search results. I need longer rear studs for the thicker rotor face (plus, even with drums the studs look to be rather... *snicker* short) but for the life of me cannot get a part number to work. Someone recommended these on JeepForum (#610-260). I have also heard the rear ZJ studs can work, but that the knurl is .003 larger? I lack air tools, and as has been the case with the front studs for my Jeep and my wife's old car, grunt is what I use to get the studs on (which sucks on a 22 year old hub). WD-40 is my best friend. With that said, is a .003 difference in knurl really that significant? Can front studs be used?
Also, for removing the rear wheel studs, does the axle need to be removed? I lack a bench vise, and am worried that using a BFH like for the front studs can break the c-clips holding the axle in or FUBAR the axle seal/bearing.
Also, I have the brake booster/master cylinder with the single booster (I know...) and metal reservoir. Does the disc swap require the plastic reservoir? I ask because it always looked like the plastic one was just on tank while the metal one has a front tank and larger rear tank.
Thanks in advance for any help!
I've almost got every collective piece of hardware for my rear disc swap for my '91 XJ. It of course has the D35.
I am getting mixed messages in the search results. I need longer rear studs for the thicker rotor face (plus, even with drums the studs look to be rather... *snicker* short) but for the life of me cannot get a part number to work. Someone recommended these on JeepForum (#610-260). I have also heard the rear ZJ studs can work, but that the knurl is .003 larger? I lack air tools, and as has been the case with the front studs for my Jeep and my wife's old car, grunt is what I use to get the studs on (which sucks on a 22 year old hub). WD-40 is my best friend. With that said, is a .003 difference in knurl really that significant? Can front studs be used?
Also, for removing the rear wheel studs, does the axle need to be removed? I lack a bench vise, and am worried that using a BFH like for the front studs can break the c-clips holding the axle in or FUBAR the axle seal/bearing.
Also, I have the brake booster/master cylinder with the single booster (I know...) and metal reservoir. Does the disc swap require the plastic reservoir? I ask because it always looked like the plastic one was just on tank while the metal one has a front tank and larger rear tank.
Thanks in advance for any help!
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, for removing the rear wheel studs, does the axle need to be removed? I lack a bench vise, and am worried that using a BFH like for the front studs can break the c-clips holding the axle in or FUBAR the axle seal/bearing.
Also, I have the brake booster/master cylinder with the single booster (I know...) and metal reservoir. Does the disc swap require the plastic reservoir? I ask because it always looked like the plastic one was just on tank while the metal one has a front tank and larger rear tank.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Also, I have the brake booster/master cylinder with the single booster (I know...) and metal reservoir. Does the disc swap require the plastic reservoir? I ask because it always looked like the plastic one was just on tank while the metal one has a front tank and larger rear tank.
Thanks in advance for any help!
As for the reservoir stuff...I doubt you'd need to worry with any of that.
#7
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
I know the axle shafts need removed for the swap and will be doing so. My concern is with removing the rear wheel studs. I plan to replace those first. So can I just love-tap the living s*** out of the rear studs WHILE the axle is still in (and then of course remove it to continue with the swap) or will that damage the axle/diff/c-clip?
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#8
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Why not just do it with them removed? All the force would be transferred into the center pin and carrier. Really sounds like a bad idea and you stand to damage the center pin. You need them out to put the new studs in too...
#9
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
If I change them with the axle out, is it safe to just put the but end of the axle shaft on a hard surface and then just pound at the studs? Again, I lack a bench vise.
Plus, I will also try the c-clamp idea. Shouldn't be too difficult. Getting the new ones is what will suck without power tools...
#10
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Vise is only for an adjustable surface to work on. You don't actually need to clamp anything. A bench tall enough for the axle shaft with holes wide enough for it to sit in is all you really need. And a BFH. I tried the vise method for pressing the studs in and out... no dice. I have no idea how you'd get the new studs in with the axle or brakes in the way.
This is how a vise is used: As you can see there's no clamping involved. You can replace that with wood or something.
This is how a vise is used: As you can see there's no clamping involved. You can replace that with wood or something.
#11
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Vise is only for an adjustable surface to work on. You don't actually need to clamp anything. A bench tall enough for the axle shaft with holes wide enough for it to sit in is all you really need. And a BFH. I tried the vise method for pressing the studs in and out... no dice. I have no idea how you'd get the new studs in with the axle or brakes in the way.
This is how a vise is used: As you can see there's no clamping involved. You can replace that with wood or something.
This is how a vise is used: As you can see there's no clamping involved. You can replace that with wood or something.
So now it becomes what studs do I get?
Thanks salad for the pic and stud removal/install advice. Thanks everyone for your posts!
#13
CF Veteran
FYI, the front studs are the same length as the rear ZJ disc studs.
As for installing the studs. You can use a socket & C clamp to install them.
As for installing the studs. You can use a socket & C clamp to install them.