diff swap
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 48
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From: Fairfield, California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6 cyl
I am new to the Cherokee community and I previously asked what types of differentials are in my jeep stock. I am fairly certain that my Cherokees diffs are stock. What do y'all recommend to replace the stock diffs? I have heard dana 44s and I have heard not to go with dana 44s. When I do the swap I will be making the diffs auto lockers.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 48
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From: Fairfield, California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6 cyl
I have 33x12.5x15's but i want to run 35s. I am looking at about $1000 budget. I cannot weld but i do have a friend who can and is very good at it that is also welding my exo cage
Last edited by RonV88; Apr 16, 2014 at 09:06 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
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From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay, there is no in he'll you are going to get new axles for that budget. Even regearing and getting lockers for the current axles will be more than that. But you can run 35s on stock axles. Lots of us do it.
This is a pretty good read and should give you an idea of what swaps are out there so you can make your decision. In my opinion a ford 8.8 or a ford 9 inch would make good swaps for you if you plan on staying at 35's.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...ep-axle-swaps/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...ep-axle-swaps/
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: St. Albert
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I second the ford 8.8 for the rear notion, however with the 35's he'll likely want more than the 4.10 gears that came stock in the 8.8. Either way, it is a great way to get plenty of strength for cheap(er). For the front, a Rubicon D44 is a good swap, but then just the front axle will exceed your budget. OP, what prompted you to look at new axles? Just the fact you're moving to 35's? If it were me, I would A: Keep the 33's on until I had a fair bit more than $1000 to spend on axles, and B: If I decided to get 35's right away, I would keep the stock axles until you decide you are breaking things too easily.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 48
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From: Fairfield, California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6 cyl
This rig is being built to apply for petersons 4wheel ultimate adventure 2016, $1000 is the current budget, I will be doing quite a bit more saving before I finally do swap axles abd diffs.
The tj rubicon dana 44 will bolt in but its not a true dana 44 its more like a dana 30 with a dana 44 center in it.If welding is no problem a 1980 or newer jeep wagoneer dana 44 will work.The down side its a low pinion you gotta cut off the spring perches and weld on all the mounting tabs and its 6 lug.It can be changed to a 5x5.5 lug and the 8.8 with aftermarket axle shafts can be changed to a 5x5.5 also.Or you can use the wagoneers rear end too,Or a isuzu rodeo rear dana 44 its 6 lug but takes welding.All of those axles are stock width or close the other options are full width from a 1 ton but are a little over kill for 35s.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If your rig is truly being built to join the Ultimate Adventure Tour, you'll need to go with at least 37s, for running that large of tires I would go with D/60 front, and either a ford 9", or a corporate 14bff shaved rear axle. For lockers you'll need full case lockers and it would be better to have them selectable. Hydraulic assist or full hydro steering and a crawl ratio of about 60 to 1 for an auto and at least 80 to 1 for a manual. That is just a start, plus spare axle shafts, drive shafts, and spares for wheel bearings, steering gearbox, etc.
Last edited by Rock Toy; Apr 17, 2014 at 02:11 PM.
If your rig is truly being built to join the Ultimate Adventure Tour, you'll need to go with at least 37s, for running that large of tires I would go with D/60 front, and either a ford 9", or a corporate 14bff shaved rear axle. For lockers you'll need full case lockers and it would be better to have them selectable. Hydraulic assist or full hydro steering and a crawl ratio of about 60 to 1 for an auto and at least 80 to 1 for a manual.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If he wants to do the UAT they have to choose him and his rig, that is why I would go with the D/60, and if I was looking at replacing the front axle and wheeling it as hard as they sometimes do at the UAT I would be going for bigger and stronger, plus a D/60 isn't going to cost much more than a D/44, and then if he decides to run 40s or 42s he's ready. Just my.02
Yeah if hes going to run the 4wheel ultimate adventure it needs to be almost bullet proof.This is the kinda 4x4s they invite http://www.fourwheeler.com/ultimate-...ure-attendees/



