Detroit Locker help
03-19-2017, 11:08 PM
#16
Moderator CF K9-unit
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
That was just a pic for reference of what I was talking about..
If the tooth is not ground already, makes me think the carrier was built on the bench and a notched cross pin was use to get the c-clips back on by rotating the pin after carrier install.
If the tooth is not ground already, makes me think the carrier was built on the bench and a notched cross pin was use to get the c-clips back on by rotating the pin after carrier install.
03-20-2017, 12:30 AM
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: CA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
The center pin has a large square, kinda tapered but flat on the exposed surface, and it freely moves within once the locking bolt is removed. The large squared end is much bigger than the round pin itself, so it is hitting a few teeth on the ring gear before it is even a half-inch out of the carrier. After reading many forum posts around the internet and also some of the major gear manufacturers website info I'm not as leery of grinding a few teeth a tiny bit to get the needed clearance. It looks to me like as long as you stay away from where the pinion meshes with the ring teeth while grinding and keep the temps low it shouldn't compromise the gears. Anyone have any experience doing this?
A die grinder with a carbide bit made quick work of it. The carbide also helps keep the heat down opposed to using a traditional abrasive disc/drum.
Make sure you clean everything thoroughly afterwards to remove all the metal shavings.
