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dd wont start after lift

Old 06-06-2011, 04:19 PM
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Default dd wont start after lift

Need some help figuring this out. Just got my lift on and now my 01 wont start. All it does is crank like it's about to start. Fuel pump doesn't make a sound when I turn the key, gauges don't move, a couple wires under the seat got hot from torching out the rear leaf springs and are stuck together the wires aren't bare that i can see minus the ones that are stuck together. Afew friends have said we pinched a fuel line while dropping the tcase, a bad ground, fuel pump, bad spark plugs. Can anyone help narrow this down?
Old 06-06-2011, 04:39 PM
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There'd a ground unconnected somewhere or a harness isent plugged in all the way if ur fuel pump dosent prime up when u turn the key that good indication of a bad or no ground
Old 06-06-2011, 04:42 PM
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I'd start with the wires you melted and go from there.
Old 06-06-2011, 07:01 PM
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Could a harness or ground come lose from dropping the tcase? Gonna try the wires once I get it back home.
Old 06-06-2011, 07:04 PM
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Maybe this can narrow down the ground or harness that could cause it. The only lights by the gauges that come on when I turn the key are the check gauges, brake, seat belt, and airbag lights.

Last edited by Smith89; 06-06-2011 at 07:09 PM.
Old 06-06-2011, 07:13 PM
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I'm assuming your Jeep ran fine before you started the lift. If that is the case accept the fact that you torched, drilled or stretched something apart during your lift install. Hey, no big deal. It happens to all of us who take the plunge and try to do our own vehicle maintenance and modifications. It's just part of the growing process of owning a Jeep. Look closesly at all the areas you torched and in the area of the TC where things might have stretched as you dropped the crossmember down. Your problem is a broken or burnt wire or wire bundle somewhere. Just have patience. You will find it. The problem with the wiring back near the rear axle that goes to the fuel pump is that if it gets shorted or broken, there is a main fuse in the engine compartment that it blows and this kills the engine being able to run.
Old 06-06-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BuckB91XJ
I'm assuming your Jeep ran fine before you started the lift. If that is the case accept the fact that you torched, drilled or stretched something apart during your lift install. Hey, no big deal. It happens to all of us who take the plunge and try to do our own vehicle maintenance and modifications. It's just part of the growing process of owning a Jeep. Look closesly at all the areas you torched and in the area of the TC where things might have stretched as you dropped the crossmember down. Your problem is a broken or burnt wire or wire bundle somewhere. Just have patience. You will find it. The problem with the wiring back near the rear axle that goes to the fuel pump is that if it gets shorted or broken, there is a main fuse in the engine compartment that it blows and this kills the engine being able to run.
Ok. We changed the fuses and checked the ones we could see through. So drop the gas tank and checked the wires up top? We torched the front bushing on the drivers side leaf spring and the back one on the passenger side. Had to make my own tcase drop and weld it on for now since the bolts for the crossmember snapped and we didnt have the right size tools to fix it. don't know if the heat from the mig could have damaged wires on either side of the crossmember?
Old 06-07-2011, 12:04 AM
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did you disconect the battery when welding?
Old 06-07-2011, 02:23 AM
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No i didn't but i went and bought a new battery because i thought thats what the problem was.
Old 06-07-2011, 07:49 AM
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Check the connector at the transmission. If u can start your truck by jumping the starter relay that will confirm the connection at the tranny
Old 06-07-2011, 01:38 PM
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Check your crankshaft position sensor on top of the bellhousing. Those wires can get pinched at top and sometimes they get cut. Connector is right behind the engine, if memory serves.

If that is it, it will try to turn like normal and it will build fuel pressure. The computer simply will not let it start...it breaks the circuit to the fuel injectors.

Happened to me when I did my clutch once. Couldn't figure it out for days. Finally it hit me, I swapped it out, started like a charm.
Old 06-07-2011, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Smith89
Had to make my own tcase drop and weld it on for now since the bolts for the crossmember snapped and we didnt have the right size tools to fix it. don't know if the heat from the mig could have damaged wires on either side of the crossmember?
Wait... you did what?
Old 06-08-2011, 04:06 AM
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We got 1 inch square tubing and welding it to either side of the crossmember. It worked. tested its strength with some ratchet straps and took it wheelin today. Held up great. Also found the problem. Two blown fuses from leaving the battery hooked up while welding and the crank sensor was loose. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Old 06-08-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Smith89
We got 1 inch square tubing and welding it to either side of the crossmember. It worked. tested its strength with some ratchet straps and took it wheelin today. Held up great. Also found the problem. Two blown fuses from leaving the battery hooked up while welding and the crank sensor was loose. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Tested it's strength with ratchet straps???
Please explain to me how a ratchet strap can provide anywhere near the amount of stress that it will actually see...




Oh well, just another cherokee destined to provide many more "help..." threads to the forum.
Old 06-08-2011, 10:05 AM
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If its welded properly it is stronger than the 4 bolts were. Going to suck when you have to take it off though

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