DANA 60 Identification - Searched BOM, no match!
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
DANA 60 Identification - Searched BOM, no match!
Hey guys
Looking to ID this Dana 60. I've entered the BOM number, no luck!
Seller says it comes from a 1975 Ford F250 2wd, but he bought it as a rolling chassis so can't be sure.
The tag says it has 4.56 gears which doesn't look too common.
I measured the width, from the middle of each wheel (not too accurate, I know) and looks to be only 62 inches wide max, which doesn't seem usual?
Any ideas?
Looking to ID this Dana 60. I've entered the BOM number, no luck!
Seller says it comes from a 1975 Ford F250 2wd, but he bought it as a rolling chassis so can't be sure.
The tag says it has 4.56 gears which doesn't look too common.
I measured the width, from the middle of each wheel (not too accurate, I know) and looks to be only 62 inches wide max, which doesn't seem usual?
Any ideas?
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Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
Use this pic.......none of the numbers you posted are the BOM per what I found or have seen. I've always gone by the number on the axle tube, but they can be hard to find is there's a lot of rust/dirt caked on.
None of the numbers on that tag fit the format correctly (it seems to be missing some numbers ) per this website
http://www.differentials.com/technic...dentification/
None of the numbers on that tag fit the format correctly (it seems to be missing some numbers ) per this website
http://www.differentials.com/technic...dentification/
Last edited by TRCM; 06-19-2018 at 10:42 AM.
#3
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Year: 2000
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I've asked the seller to try find the BOM numbers, but I might be asking a bit much.
To be honest its so cheap, I should just buy it, but I really don't want it to be a 16 spline.
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Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
The last rear D60 I got came from a 2wd 73 dodge 250 camper special....it had 4.56 gears I think, and was already built big enough for 35 spline axles from the factory (but came with 33 spl).
.
.
Last edited by TRCM; 06-19-2018 at 12:23 PM.
#5
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I had one of those I think. I believe some early Ford F-150/F-250 were 64"~ wide in the front, and the rear is about 62"~, while some of the F-250s and F-350s were regular full with (69" front 67"~ rear). It will be junk 19? spline coarse axles most likely. You can upgrade them if you want, but the feature that appears to be redeeming (the width) is not really useful IMHO, as once you have tires large enough to justify a D60 you need to go wider to preserve turning/scrub radius.
The one I had I cut up and threw in the trash, it had a cracked spindle (they're thin wall spindles) and it just wasn't worth repairing.
If you want a narrow HD rear axle, the C&C 14 bolt is a better option. But finding a front axle to use with it is hard, you're fairly well stuck narrowing something.
The one I had I cut up and threw in the trash, it had a cracked spindle (they're thin wall spindles) and it just wasn't worth repairing.
If you want a narrow HD rear axle, the C&C 14 bolt is a better option. But finding a front axle to use with it is hard, you're fairly well stuck narrowing something.
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Year: 2000
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I had one of those I think. I believe some early Ford F-150/F-250 were 64"~ wide in the front, and the rear is about 62"~, while some of the F-250s and F-350s were regular full with (69" front 67"~ rear). It will be junk 19? spline coarse axles most likely. You can upgrade them if you want, but the feature that appears to be redeeming (the width) is not really useful IMHO, as once you have tires large enough to justify a D60 you need to go wider to preserve turning/scrub radius.
The one I had I cut up and threw in the trash, it had a cracked spindle (they're thin wall spindles) and it just wasn't worth repairing.
If you want a narrow HD rear axle, the C&C 14 bolt is a better option. But finding a front axle to use with it is hard, you're fairly well stuck narrowing something.
The one I had I cut up and threw in the trash, it had a cracked spindle (they're thin wall spindles) and it just wasn't worth repairing.
If you want a narrow HD rear axle, the C&C 14 bolt is a better option. But finding a front axle to use with it is hard, you're fairly well stuck narrowing something.
The obvious swap would be a C8.25, but they're super rare where I am - I'd have to get one out of a Jeep KJ and convert coil to leafs.
Had a crazy idea to get this narrow D60 and just keep my D30 up front and only run 33s. I know its total over kill, but this D60 is a third of the price of a C8.25...I mean its dirt cheap.
Only two problems I can see is the bolt pattern wont match and the diff might hang super low.
Silly idea?
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Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix
Super useful info thanks! You totally read my mind - I like the fact that its narrow, I'm looking to swap out my crappy D35.
The obvious swap would be a C8.25, but they're super rare where I am - I'd have to get one out of a Jeep KJ and convert coil to leafs.
Had a crazy idea to get this narrow D60 and just keep my D30 up front and only run 33s. I know its total over kill, but this D60 is a third of the price of a C8.25...I mean its dirt cheap.
Only two problems I can see is the bolt pattern wont match and the diff might hang super low.
Silly idea?
The obvious swap would be a C8.25, but they're super rare where I am - I'd have to get one out of a Jeep KJ and convert coil to leafs.
Had a crazy idea to get this narrow D60 and just keep my D30 up front and only run 33s. I know its total over kill, but this D60 is a third of the price of a C8.25...I mean its dirt cheap.
Only two problems I can see is the bolt pattern wont match and the diff might hang super low.
Silly idea?
It might be wider than I remember, but either way it's wider than the front, and 8x6.5 bolt pattern. You could probably find a set of adapters to go from 5x4.5 to 8x6.5, since the 5x4.5 pattern will fit cleanly inside it, but they're not the most common thing and will be a few bucks and they might not get the width matching enough.
You'll also likely wind up throwing a bunch of money at it for new bearings and brake parts, as most stuff that is that old is thrashed. If it has the coarse spline (I looked, they're 16 spline) axles they may be worn out, it actually is a problem with coarse spline axles, in which case it will be a bunch of money to get replacements or change the carrier and put 30 spline axles in. If it's 30 spline, no big deal. The wheel cylinders also will likely be too large for your master cylinder, and leave you with issues getting the brakes to work correctly and not have a constant brake fail light on. Also, all the brackets will need to be changed (more money) and you will likely need a different yoke for the pinion (more money) and your rear driveshaft might be too long as the D60 has a much longer pinion than the D35 (more money there).
It's also heavy and won't have good ground clearance with 33s.
I don't know where you are, but there is millions of 8.25s out there. You can also use a KJ one if you cut all the brackets off and put XJ brackets on, which will get you 29 spline shafts and disk brakes.
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