Dana 44 HP and Ford 9"
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 112
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From: Florida
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And I think I have figured out what I'm going to do about the radius arms. From what I've seen, people tend to hack off the end of the arm and attach a tube with a joint. So I think I might be able to buy some adjustable lcas, and cut the axle end off and weld that to the radius arm. Then fabricate a beefy mount for the frame rail.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Right now I'm running 31", but with the upgraded axles I am looking to move to 35". Will that be a problem?
And I think I have figured out what I'm going to do about the radius arms. From what I've seen, people tend to hack off the end of the arm and attach a tube with a joint. So I think I might be able to buy some adjustable lcas, and cut the axle end off and weld that to the radius arm. Then fabricate a beefy mount for the frame rail.
And I think I have figured out what I'm going to do about the radius arms. From what I've seen, people tend to hack off the end of the arm and attach a tube with a joint. So I think I might be able to buy some adjustable lcas, and cut the axle end off and weld that to the radius arm. Then fabricate a beefy mount for the frame rail.
Your stock axles would hold 35s by the way. I've done a lot of work and spent a fortune on my front 44 to hold 38s and I still break shafts and hubs.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 112
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From: Florida
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I also would eventually like to put 37s.
So better tubing than control arms? And Heim joints? Are those really that much stronger than the flex joints that rustys puts on their lcas?
The forged flex ends. Part RC-SI212. They look pretty beef, and I would think they would hold up just as well, and be easier to deal with.
So better tubing than control arms? And Heim joints? Are those really that much stronger than the flex joints that rustys puts on their lcas?
The forged flex ends. Part RC-SI212. They look pretty beef, and I would think they would hold up just as well, and be easier to deal with.
Last edited by ChiefAcorn; Jun 4, 2013 at 08:41 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The tubing they use isn't big enough to properly sleeve the factory radius arm. You need something in the 2" .25 wall DOM or larger and their joints aren't the greatest. If you want that kind of joint there are much better ones out there like Currie. If you go the heim route 1.25" would be what I'd choose. Since this will be the only thing holding the axle in you need something strong. We built a set for a TJ and used nickel rods with the flux knocked off and tigged it so we'd get good penetration on the cast arms and mild steel tube. You also need to heat the cast prior to welding. By the time you buy an arm that's 3' long and chop off one end you've spent more than you would buying tube and rod ends.
Not bragging here, but I broke to different comapnies d30 alloys before I decided a d30 is just not up to my wheeling. One set was on 35's the other set was on 33's with a doubler.
I am currently running 37 rockers on steel bead locks weigh about 120 a tire, and I am running alloys and have yet to have a problem, but I have a lot of gearing.
If you run the radias arms all you need is some frame mounts... Contact Ground Pounder Fabrication on Ebay he make a set of mounts similar to Rock Krawler 3 links that are super beefy and strong.
I am currently running 37 rockers on steel bead locks weigh about 120 a tire, and I am running alloys and have yet to have a problem, but I have a lot of gearing.
If you run the radias arms all you need is some frame mounts... Contact Ground Pounder Fabrication on Ebay he make a set of mounts similar to Rock Krawler 3 links that are super beefy and strong.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
well for the d44 front the ujoints are the same size as a d30. a d44 isn't all that much larger than a d30. people go and make the mistake of running 38" tires on 44/9. still plenty of stories of d44's getting broken on 35" tires. theres a guy on here who broke his 9" 3rd member. anything can happen with enough skinny pedal
not saying it can't be done. still plenty of people run 38's on 44/9 with good results. seems to be hit or miss with some people
not saying it can't be done. still plenty of people run 38's on 44/9 with good results. seems to be hit or miss with some people
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
^^there it is
a 9" is so appealing but I'm afraid to get one. new 3rd member, 35 spline chromos, carrier, the list adds up fast. I really want half tons and a full width 8.8 is starting to sound pretty nice to me..
I found the other pic of the exploded 3rd
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/fo...9/#post1588394
a 9" is so appealing but I'm afraid to get one. new 3rd member, 35 spline chromos, carrier, the list adds up fast. I really want half tons and a full width 8.8 is starting to sound pretty nice to me..
I found the other pic of the exploded 3rd
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/fo...9/#post1588394
Stock 9in third members are not the strongest but if u can find a factory n case u would be set. I would rather spend a little more on a true high 9 case though if i was doing a 9in. I would take a full width 9in over a 8.8 any day
A lil money on a HI9.. they are stupid pricey.. but pimp.
I just cracked my stock housing on the pinion support.. no where near as bad as above pictures. Luckily I had a cheap (paid 25 bucks) 9" sitting in the garage..
Summit has the Strange housings under 4 or you can buy the summit brand for under 210.
To me it is all a matter of what axle I have.. and that is what I work with. Main difference way more aftermarket support for the 9"
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 112
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From: Florida
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I already have the axles. So I'm just gonna install them. I'm really just trying to figure out how to mount the front one. From what I've seen, I need to find some radius arms. Any good ideas to find them? I guess it's just going to the JY.
My theory, flawed as it may be, is that I drive my Jeep hard, and I didn't break the stuff everyone said I would. So I bought more beefy axles, and I don't think that the way I wheel will end up breaking them like you guys keep saying.
My theory, flawed as it may be, is that I drive my Jeep hard, and I didn't break the stuff everyone said I would. So I bought more beefy axles, and I don't think that the way I wheel will end up breaking them like you guys keep saying.
I would look on some of the ford owners sites. Keep in mind you are going to need the coil parts too. If you were closer.. I think I know where a set could be had with all the parts needed. Thats if my buddy I gave them too hasnt thrown them away.. it was like 2 almost 3 yrs ago
A lil money on a HI9.. they are stupid pricey.. but pimp.
I just cracked my stock housing on the pinion support.. no where near as bad as above pictures. Luckily I had a cheap (paid 25 bucks) 9" sitting in the garage..
Summit has the Strange housings under 4 or you can buy the summit brand for under 210.
To me it is all a matter of what axle I have.. and that is what I work with. Main difference way more aftermarket support for the 9"
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
anyone with half a brain probably would. but I'll be too tempted to over build over spend on a 9. for me if I'm doing half tons I'll do a quick and dirty 8.8 or just go 14 bolt like a normal human being. being strapped for cash and all


