Are there any Dana 44 front axles the correct width for our beloved xjs?

 

The Dana 44 out of a Rubicon, but it's mainly a glorified Dana 30.

 

Wagoneer front axle is only about 1" wider then the stock axle. but its 6 lug. could take the rear to match it (about 1" shorter then stock), use ford hub parts to go 5x5.5 and run a 9" rear or spacers on your current rear axle... but this requires welding the mounts on. (my build thread has lots of info and pice about this option)

other then that the rubicon which is a lot of money from what i have seen.

 

No problem welding.... is that 1" overall or per side?

 

the Stock D30 width is about 60"(from google sources)
the wagoneer axle is 61" (from google sources) and mine measured this as well (89 grand wagoneer axle) these are from wheel mount to wheel mount.

so a 1/2" wider on each side. nothing noticable really. i have 33/12.5/15 and 3.75" back spacing my on 10" rims and my front tires are about 3/4" past my flares (Bushwackers)

 

Ahh so you run this setup... and you say use Ford parts for the hubs? Seems that would be a nice match for an 8.8

 

I run waggy axles front and rear. both 6 lug, kept it simple as the axles where almost free. but chevy/jeep hubs on the D44 are 6x5.5 lug pattern, the ford hubs are 5x5.5 and are interchangable with knuckles out. tons of info and specific part numbers listed on this site to further explain the options. this site helped me build my axle and convert it to cross over steering. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

well the 8.8 is a 5x4.5 lug pattern. so adapers would be needed. but you could get some sparcers/adapters for the back to make the 5x4.5 patern a 6x5.5 to match the front and help with the narrow 8.8 track. this would make it so you don't need to change patterns on the front. but it all depends on what you want in the back...

 

Argh I thought the 8.8 had the same pattern as my 35.... Damn it.

 

it does. which is 5x4.5

the wagoneer axle does not, which can be the hardest part to figure out... convert the front and the back? or just the back?

but the front axle could be over kill depending on your max tire size and driving habits.. a lot of people claim to get away with chromo shafts locked with 35's, not that I don't believe them, but i haven't ran over a 33 on a D30 so don't have experience to speak of.

 

That's my thing. I'm going to 35s after a little trimming.... I'm not locking the front. I'll be going with the Tru trac.... bit sure how hard it ties en together.

 

I just swapped in full width HPD44/F9.. and I kept them full width. I went to the extreme on my build... I went with waggy outers on reid knuckles. For the rear I went with custom 6 lug dutchman shafts.

If you dont have all the parts it can get real expensive to put a set up together. Also figure in you are going to have to regear the d44.

The super 88 kit can convert your rear to 5x5.5 since you all ready have that.

 

I wouldn't bother going from a 30 to a 44. The difference in strength can be made up for in alloy shafts and stronger U Joints with a lot less work to be done. There are plenty of people who successfully run 35s with a D30. You just can't beat on it too hard. Go to a D60 if you are going to do a swap.

Check out this link:
http://www.jb4x4.com/tech_dana44fntov.htm

 

Thanks!

 

Article even pointed out that a d44 is roughly a third stronger then a d30. YOu say it isnt worth it.. I TOTALLY DISAGREE. Not every one needs a d60. A d44 with alloys approaches the strength of a d60 and can be built to be JUST AS strong as a d60 with the 35 spline kits out there now. DID I mention you get 1.75 more ground clearnace doing the a 35 spline d44

 

You should do a build thread and post it.