My jeep is also a 60th aniv. So like I said very light trailing to keep it nice because its my DD for all my high school years and college. If it wasn't a 60th I would tear the hel out of it and make it an off road monster but I don't want to swap axles and besides the lift and roof rack lights etc. I want to keep it close to stock

 

I'm on 33s d35 not locked. I light em up now and then and hammer on it on the trail.... its still going. If it were locked I def would have snapped something... open its not too bad.

 

X2
I agree 100% with this statement. I've heard guys that run D/35s say they wheel them hard and never have a problem. Problem is I've been wheeling for over 35 years and have seen more D/35s broken than all other axles combined. My .02 is wheel with the D/35, but be on the lookout for a 8.25/D44 to swap.

 

X3 that would be why my 35 isn't locked. I'm waiting around till I have the money for an 8.8 and gears all the way around.

 

should be fine on 32s if you're easy on it. That being said, bring spare shafts and fluid and know how to change them.

 

now im scared to get a lift. i dont wanna be breakin things constantly. if its gonna be that bad with a d35 then i just wont get a lift cause i dont want to and i dont have the money to drop in a 8.25 or 8.8.

 

what also doesnt make since is that on spec. websites it says that on 01 cherokee's the dana 8.25 was non abs and the d35 was ABS and my abs light doesnt come on when i turn on the ignition. so idk if that means whoever i bought it from had earlier swithched axles or something. i have the d35 without abs

 

**chrysler8.25 my bad

 

D35's get a bad rap from retards who think they are D60's


HAHAHAHA.
the jeep is very capable even on a "smaller tire" if you want to turn 44"s stuff a 14 bolt GM full floater w/ a spider gear in it!

you'll be fine on the 32"s, just realize its a smaller axle

 

i can find a d44 for pretty cheap. can most mechanic shops put it in because i mean i know cars but not changing axles lol

 

Cwish. I put my axle in no probs and I never had put one in before. Now rebuilding an engine would terrify me. The rear bolts up the drive shaft, the leaf springs and the springs bolt to the chassis. Then there are 4 bolts that hold the shocks on. It's pretty straight forward. I dis tge front as well and that wasnt fun by myself. Good luck only you know what you are capable of.

 

Slightly confused by multiple posts. but if you have the 8.25 then just hammer down. It will take it... (everything can brake though...)

Axles are VERY easy to swap when bolt in. just match gear ratio's.

Don't let teh D35 ruin your experience... LIFT IT! enjoy it and love it for what it is. lock the front and leave the rear open... IF you ever feel the need for a rear locker swap axles then.

 

The OP's profile says he has a 2001. That should be a Chrysler 8.25 which he would be fine with. I don't recall the 60th Ann. edition but why would they put the weaker axle in a newer "upgraded" model?
If it is infact the 8.25 (pictures would help) then you'll be fine with that set up on 32's. I ran a D35 for over a year on 3 inches of lift then upgraded to 4.5 inches and still ran the D35 for a few month before upgrading my axle. I didn't have any problems with it, but everytime I hit the trails or mud or rocks I was nervous I'd snap it and be the guy on the trail with the broken axle. Not saying it can't be done on the other axles but the D35 is prone to failure. They've been know to snap with only 31's on the street. Check out this months issue of JP Magazine. It has all you need to know about CherokeeXJ axles.

 

yeah its really weird i have the d35 and no ABS which wasnt common. i got under my jeep and looked it said dana and the diff. cover was the 35. I found a few D44 on craigslist with disc brakes on but they have coil spring holders. can those be taken off and keep my leafs u bolted on to a d44

 

you can cut all that off and weld perches and shock mounts but its a pita