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dana 30, 30 spline question

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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
No.
Wow. Going to a 30/30 setup seems useless then. I've only been wheeling for a little over a year and I've seen 2 breakages. Both were from axle U-joint/ears. That 100% with a sample of 2. While a sample of 2 is too small to be definitive it is very telling of where the weak point is.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
another vote for 30 spline D30 being a useless waste. if you're breaking 27 spline chromos it's time to re-evaluate your tire size or learn how to drive
price would be the same as 27 spline axle shafts and 27 spline locker. so why not go to 30 spline ?
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #18  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
Wow. Going to a 30/30 setup seems useless then. I've only been wheeling for a little over a year and I've seen 2 breakages. Both were from axle U-joint/ears. That 100% with a sample of 2. While a sample of 2 is too small to be definitive it is very telling of where the weak point is.
Dana 44's run the same size joint as a 30. The key is to upgrade to a better joint. Spicer 760's work well for most. I run Yukon Super Joints. They've held up well so far.

Last edited by Lowrange2; Oct 8, 2013 at 01:05 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Dana 44's run the same size joint as a 30. The key is to upgrade to a better joint. 760's work well for most. I run super joints. They've held up well so far.
Thanks. Very good info.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:07 PM
  #20  
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My 10 factory chromos and HD Alloy joints have taken a good beating on my locked 33's.

35's just mean I have to be a little more cautious of the skinny pedal.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
Wow. Going to a 30/30 setup seems useless then. I've only been wheeling for a little over a year and I've seen 2 breakages. Both were from axle U-joint/ears. That 100% with a sample of 2. While a sample of 2 is too small to be definitive it is very telling of where the weak point is.
Idk what year your xj is, but from the looks of your avatar it's an old model. If you have a 95 or older and no ABS you have itty bitty baby ujoints. Also, if you break a 150k ujoint and replace it with a junkyard piece and break it again I blow my nose at you... You son of a silly person.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI
Unless you are blowing D30 **** up every weekend, you don't need 30 spline stuff. And if you are breaking that often, you need a larger axle anyway.
I would prefer not to break and If I can get the 30 spline axles and locker for the same price as 27 spline why not?
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI
Idk what year your xj is, but from the looks of your avatar it's an old model. If you have a 95 or older and no ABS you have itty bitty baby ujoints. Also, if you break a 150k ujoint and replace it with a junkyard piece and break it again I blow my nose at you... You son of a silly person.
I'm pretty sure I'm still am a big dummy, but it was 2 different XJs neither of which were mine. Yes they were stock but at least 1 was the newer, larger shafts. I'm just trying to compare apples to apples. i.e. stock-27 vs stock-30.

But to continue the discussion. I know the difference in shaft diameter of the older vs newer but are they the same stock U-joint? I guess what I'm trying to understand is if the 30-spline axle could ever have a larger u-joint than a 27-spline. What I'm hearing is no, but trying to confirm.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
I'm pretty sure I'm still am a big dummy, but it was 2 different XJs neither of which were mine. Yes they were stock but at least 1 was the newer, larger shafts. I'm just trying to compare apples to apples. i.e. stock-27 vs stock-30.

But to continue the discussion. I know the difference in shaft diameter of the older vs newer but are they the same stock U-joint? I guess what I'm trying to understand is if the 30-spline axle could ever have a larger u-joint than a 27-spline. What I'm hearing is no, but trying to confirm.
No. The 30 spline shafts accept the same size joints as the 27 spline shafts. BUT you can buy joints in different grades. XJLI was saying that you have 297 joints in the older shafts. You can run Spicer 760 joints or a chromoly joint. All of these joints have the same overall physical dimensions but are different strengths.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:57 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
No. The 30 spline shafts accept the same size joints as the 27 spline shafts. BUT you can buy joints in different grades. XJLI was saying that you have 297 joints in the older shafts. You can run Spicer 760 joints or a chromoly joint. All of these joints have the same overall physical dimensions but are different strengths.
Thanks again. Exactly what my brain was looking for.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mikeyjeod
price would be the same as 27 spline axle shafts and 27 spline locker. so why not go to 30 spline ?
you're aiming at the wrong weak point. as mentioned, if you're breaking 27spl chromos you're doing something wrong. target the ring and pinion, housing flex, spend your money on a good diff cover and truss. full case locker as you're getting. leave the axle shafts as the weak point (while still a pain, I'd rather shafts/U's bust than an RP or carrier). my only reasoning for not going 30 spline D30 is A.) the principle of the matter and B.) you'll never find a spare on the trail. even with my 27 spline chromos my weak point still ended up being the factory carrier cross pin. snap

if you're geared, full cased, trussed, diff covered, and upgraded ujoints and you STILL feel the need to go 30 spline.. I guess thats your call

Originally Posted by Lowrange2
The key is to upgrade to a better joint.
the key is to run full circle snap rings along with it
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
the key is to run full circle snap rings along with it
Well, yeah. Of course.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Well, yeah. Of course.
you'd be shocked at how many people I find on the trail not running them on their D30. then they're like "hey you drive a cherokee do you happen to have a 12pt 13mm? I didnt bring one because I never anticipated this unforseeable event"
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
you'd be shocked at how many people I find on the trail not running them on their D30. then they're like "hey you drive a cherokee do you happen to have a 12pt 13mm? I didnt bring one because I never anticipated this unforseeable event"
lol Heard that a few times. Though, I usually hear "Hey, you drive a Cherokee! Do you have any idea how I fix this? I'm not sure what broke but it was making this clack clack sound and then my wheel fell off."
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 04:14 PM
  #30  
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i run a fully built HP D44 bc i dont want to break, and i'm running regular, off the shelf, spicer 760x ujoints. but even on 35s, i know i can still break it. with 30 or 27 spline chromo stuff in a 30, you'll be breaking ring gears first. with a fully built D30 (full case locker, cover, truss, chromos, good ujoints.. maybe even RCVs) the failure will be fantastic and catastrophic when you blow it all up. but you have to be an idiot to be that hard on it and not expect breakage. i know the first thing to go in my 44 will be a 760 ujoint, and if that happens i'll just unlock my hubs and drive home, or to the campground and fix it if its early on/i have the drive to fix it.

breakage will happen, your right foot, brain, and gear just determine when.
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