Is there a difference between the Grand Wagoneer and Wagoneer axles?
Which one mates up easier to the Cherokee?
I assume the axle without the vacuum disconnect is more desirable?
What all is actually required in this modifcation?

I've found some axles on Car-Parts.com in my area that have these axles. I need some advice on what axle I should be looking for. I imagine there isn't much difference between the 3.31 and 2.71 geared axles besides the R&P.

 

The non disco waggy is what you want. You will need to weld on coil buckets, connection for lca and upper ca along with tracbar. They are slightly narrower than stock.

 

The axle width is narrower than stock? Any idea how much?

 

I think he ment wider. We are talking about getting axles from a full size Jeep Cherokee, right?

 

Jeep Wagoneer. If that's what a "full size Cherokee" is then yes.

 

You'll need the narrow-trac axles if you're trying to stay close to stock width.

 

Yes, it's wider but not by much.

Mine came from a 1982 Jeep Wagoneer (Non disco).

This will have been a leaf sprung axle.

Like someone said up top, you'll have to build a tracbar mount, upper and lower control arm mounts and coil buckets.

Now, you'll also have to build custom steering and a custom trac bar. No one makes parts specifically FOR this swap with the exception of fabricator brackets.

You'll also have to decide what to do about the wheel pattern.
Stock Wagoneer wheel pattern is 6x5.5.

The easiest thing to do would be to grab the rear axle from the same Jeep and install it along with the front. Especially if it's a 44 as well. Your bolt pattern would be 6x5.5 all the way around.

You can also swap out the hubs, rotors, spindles and bearings for a mix of Ford and Chevy outers to run 5x5.5 and run a wheel adapter in the back. This will give you 5x5.5 all the way round.

SO! You either need to swap out the entire rear axle with it, swap the bolt pattern on the front and buy wheel adapters, or have a mismatched pattern.

Either way, you have to buy new wheels.

It should look a little something like this.


If you decide to go thru with it then I'd be glad to help you with any questions you have.

 

Wagoneer Dana 44 wms-wms is 62.5"

Cherokee Dana 30 wms-wms is 60.5"

He's going to need to buy new wheels, anyhow. He can get a 1" deeper backspaced wheel and have them match almost perfectly.

 

Sunuva T. I already have gears for the Chrysler so I wanted to keep that. I'm thinking about new rims with alternate backspacing and the fact that rotations won't happen to their fullest... and I will have one spare tire.

Looks like I have to sell off the C8.25 and grab the rear D44 from the wagoneer as well. So I'm going to need two master rebuilds and new gears. My dad will be doing the work for me so it's no sweat off me anyways.

I'm thinking 4.88's now that I will have to get new R&P's anyways.

 

what if he is talking about the D44 out of an 87ish waggy (the cherokee with a facelift..)

 

What size tires are you running? I may have read over it.

Honestly, I'd go lower than that. I'd run at least 5.13 on 44s. Assuming you're running a 35ish" tire. 4.88s would go good with 33s.

 

Definately go 5.13for anything over 35's. I am running 36's and love my 5.13's with a 5spd. I can actually use 5th gear, and still have acceleration. Plus it will help with your crawl ratio.

There are pllenty of calculators out there to tell you what your rpm should be at a given speed.

 

I want the same bolt pattern so I won't be running a 44 from a XJ. I need a 44 up front which means an SJ which has a different bolt pattern so I'll need the rear axle from it as well.

35x12.50's.
4.7 Stroker
Avenger Supercharger

I didn't know 4.88's would be so weak for my setup. I guess I have no choice but to go with 5.13's.

 

It's not necessarily too weak. Especially with the stroker. I just prefer a deeper gear from the get go. If I were just using the Jeep as a trail rig then I'd go as deep as I could. 4.88s with 32s will be fine if you intend to give it much pavement time.

I say this because I installed 4.56s in my trail rig back when I was on 33s. Now I have 35s and wish I had 5.89s.

If you build the 44 with Chromo shafts and super joints I'm fairly sure it'd be close to indestructable on 32s.

 

It's going to have the chromoly shafts with 35's. It won't be bullet proof but it will be more than enough for what I intend to use it for. It's my extremely capably weekend spelunking toy.