Every axle has downsides, but what does advantage does a 44 have over an 8.8 aside from the bolt in option? Even then it's rare that you can find a good deal on them. I guess there's the width issue, but that comes back to the bolt in 44 option as well.

There's just as much aftermarket support for 8.8s as 44s. Not that a 44 isn't a great axle, I'm just saying an 8.8 is a smarter choice if you're going to go through the hassle of cutting off and welding on new perches and shock mounts.

 

stock carriers aren't something to desire about.

 

Correct width.
No need to weld the tubes to the diff.
No C-Clips.
Can be used with smaller tires and not dig a trench when doing so.
The OEM carrier is not a known-weak link.

 

Not?

The 8.8 is supposed to be a stronger axle in independent tests.

EDIT: Nevermind, you were referring to the Dana 44.

 

And just remember any axle can be broken if you try hard enough.

 

I read and read, expecting one day I am going to swap out my own axles (like Phase 3 - now I am on Phase 1), I know eventually I want bigger than 35's.... like 40's

I think I am fairly settled on a 14 bolt rear when the time comes (maybe shaved), In the front I have been all over the place and always seem to come back around to an aftermarket Dynatrac, Currie, or similar axle, by the time I buy everything to build a junkyard axle up to the job it just seems to get so close that you might as well as buy an aftermarket axle.

$1750 Currie Dana 44 HP RockJock Housing with TJ/XJ Knuckles
$1000 RCV Axle Shafts
$ 650 Detroit Locker
$ 250 4.56/4.88 gear and master install kit.
-----------------
$3650 Total - but damn that just kills me... I am a cheap bastard.

Love to come up with a junkyard axle that I can build and install for around $2K when the times comes, but heck Locker, Alloy Axles, Truss, etc and I can have near that in a Dana 30 alone, let along try to build a 44HP

Ah heck, still no clue... LOL

 

for 40" u would want a Dana 60

 

I thought about that, but the added weight and cost....

Was thinking an aftermarket 44 would hold up to 40's...... thought I read that somewhere (you know everything you read on the internet is the truth), but could be wrong.

Honestly was thinking 37's until recently, but then started looking at typical MOAB and Rubicon vehicles and 40's or bigger seem to be the norm these days, and that is on my bucket list someday.

As I said I am all over the place with axle setup I want... don't know if I can ever come to a decision... LOL

 

I'm in the same boat as you.

 

Moab and rubicon are very doable on tires less than a 40. It's all about suspension and driver ability or a good spotter when it comes to rocks and trails like those. And you can source out a d60/sterling 10.25 for under 6 grand for the pair, built, so long as you do most of the work.

Big axles and tires are fun, but personally, I'll take a challenge with a smaller rig, and keep up.

 

We have a member i forgot his name but his 44 front on 38s eats stub axles.A lot of it is how you drive,Anything can be broken if you try hard.

 

even RCV's can be broken when you try to run 40's on a D44. You can get away with it but you're playing roulette on where your breaking point will be and when. if you want to go the rock jock 44 route you need to stick with 37's or 38's, which will be more than plenty underneath a Cherokee. those RJ housings are amazing they just slide over everything

 

I hope you can find a built pair for more like 3500

8.25 and 8.8 are c-clip which defeats the purpose of being semi float. advantage goes to d44 rear

 

60s ain't cheap down here in socal. And once you get 5.38s, arbs, hubs, brakes, trusses, shafts, all under 3500?? I wish haha

 

ah, arbs would really blow the budget. spools man! you can find deals, here's what I come up with at a glance just brush up on the old negotiation skills. KOH is coming up you could meet the second guy in Johnson valley and give him 3500.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...-knuckles.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...omoly-etc.html