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If I were to get a D44 center section, would D30 axle tubes fit on it?
I ask mainly because I saw a couple places that sell axle tubes for re-tubing and they listed a product as "D30/D44 axle tubes".
I just upgraded to heim steering and was thinking if I could swap out the center section, buy carrier, R&P, and aftermarket axle shafts, I could swap things over without having to modify my custom heim steering.
I could be wrong, but the only axle tube kits that I have seen recently for Dana 30/Dana 44 are actually sleeve kits to beef up the weak tubes on the JK axles. This doesn't answer your main question, but you may want to look further into what axle tube kits you are looking at.
With all of that said, aren't the Dana 44's that came under the TJ's really just a Dana 44 center section with Dana 30 knuckles?
I'm pretty sure that that is the case. I'm unsure if the width of the xj d30 and the tj D44 are the same width however. If they are different, I would need to modify my steering. Not too fond of doing that. If theres a D44 that has an identical axle width that would be ideal. I haven't been able to find a reliable list of axle width.
No tj had a high pinon in the front its all low pinions in the tjs.The tj had a low pinion dana 44 but its not a true 44 at all its basicly the dana 30 they used a dana 44 low pinion center on it,It even shares the knuckles out with a dana 30.And has the same weak points the dana 30 has in it.If your going that far get a ford high pinion 44 and shorten it but thats a lot of time and money for a axle only good tell 37s tho.
I only plan on running at Max 35's Until I reach the point I want to get to with this Jeep. Turbo 4bt, if I can figure out how, 6bt Cummins. Dana 60's. But that's many years down the line. Once both of my 4.7 strokers die, and my business finally gets up and running to where I want it.
Even if it's an LPD44 that's fine. I have a Ford 8.8 I'm waiting to swap in, and I want the strength of the 44 R&P. If I can swap out for that Tj 44, I can beef up the axle tubes, truss it, and gusset the inner C's. I don't see myself breaking that with 35's.
what you're proposing is a lot of effort for very little gain, especially if you're going to settle for a low pinion version. quit before you even start, there's no need to reinvent the wheel. plus, the D30 is plenty strong enough to handle 35" tires as long as you don't run 4.88 gears
The What would you suggest I do so I don't have to worry about the axle?
Plans:
35" tires
Locker
Long arm
ORI shocks (maybe at some point)
not much. just make sure it's a high pinion
4.56 gearing
chromo axles
spicer 760 ujoints with full circle snap rings
sturdy diff cover
replace factory lower link mounts (and passenger upper if you can)
truss is optional
really that's all you need to get a good long life out of this axle. the ring and pinion is quite stout with 4.56
if you break this setup, you probably would also break the D44 Frankenstein as well
what you're proposing is a lot of effort for very little gain, especially if you're going to settle for a low pinion version. quit before you even start, there's no need to reinvent the wheel. plus, the D30 is plenty strong enough to handle 35" tires as long as you don't run 4.88 gears
correct. it's pretty dang small. not denying that many people run it with perfectly fine results, but I've seen a good handful of them break/broken in person. I've never seen or heard of a broken 4.56
Honestly if you sleeve or truss your stock dana 30 and weld on the C bracing that axle will handle anything you can throw at it,If you could get a high pinion dana 44 its only a hair stronger then a beefed up dana 30 not really worth it to me.
08-13-2017, 12:32 PM
D30 vs D44 question
