Is the Lockrite supposed to click when driving straight and not under load?

It stops clicking under load but as soon as i let off the gas it clicks again, i thought it was only supposed to click when turning and not underload....

I'm worried it may be damaged...

Thanks,
Mike

If the tire circumference differs by more a half inch or so, locker will click while going straight.
Another cause is if one tire is over/under inflated.

The symptom also sounds like you may be driving in 4-FullTime.

Thanks!

No, i'M not in 4-fulltime that I'm 100% sure.

I will check tire pressure... sizes are the same they are brand new KM2.

New tires need to be measured for circumference also. Install the two closest matches on one axle. This is info from instructions on installing an Aussie locker. Same principal for your lockrite.
I would pull the cover and have a look. Check the gap tolerances that lockrite specifies.

What gear weight are you running ?

do the lunch box lockers like synthetic fluid?

My spartan is a lot quiter with 85-140 lucas high performance I do t think its synthetic though

1996 Owners Manual specifies synthetic in the rear end (90w), if off-roading or towing than use 140w. The rear end creates a good amount of heat. 135 F for normal driving.
Synthetic retains it's lubrication properties longer under adverse conditions.

The thicker oil should be beneficial to the locker.
Only issue is if the pinion angle is pointed upwards too far. The pinion bearing can starve. To remedy this the oil passage can be enlarged when changing ring & pinion gears.

It's my understanding that synthetic doesn't dissipate the heat as well. Thicker oil also quiets down the auto locker noises.

I have found the thicker weight oil the better. it should not click with the tires pointing straight. the clicking means it is ratcheting. this can be cause by (obviously turning), mismatched tire heights and mismatched tire pressures. or a poor installation.

update: so the noise wasn't coming form the locker afterall but from loose u-joint straps on the t-case front ds output shaft and a failing u-joint at the front driveshaft where it connects to the pinion.

Thanks all!

OP, thank you for following up with the outcome. Wish everyone would do that.

aint that the truth

Glad you found the issue. Examination goes a long way towards prevention. See what else you can find that 'isn't right'. There is usually something.

My generation was taught to 'look before you ask'.