I meant D35 in the title, not D30.
I'm planning on picking up a C8.25 out of a '01 XJ Sport this weekend.

I will be transplanting it into my '01 XJ Classic, replacing my D35 rear axle.
If it matters... I have the 4.0, AW4 and NP242 T case.

I'm on ~5" of lift or so. Don't have an SYE installed, nor do I have any problems whatsoever with driveline vibes.

My question is that once I swap the C8.25, the longer snout/yoke of the 8.25 would not hurt me, correct? From my understanding this would allow my stock rear driveshaft more engagement into the slip yoke compared to my current setup with the D35.

Also, I'm tracking on the other things I will need to do (new u-bolts, cut ABS lines and pull fuse/relay, etc.)

Thanks guys!

 

It shouldn't be an issue. Check the driveshaft at the transfer case and be sure it has room to move in.

 

Will do, thanks Cruiser!

 

That's exactly what I did after I installed the lift and went from D35 > 8.25, stock driveshaft gives just a bit more engagement, works very well as long as you've got no vibes.

 

could create vibes since the driveshaft angle will be slightly increased because of the shorter distance between transfercase and pinion.

 

That's true, I was thinking about picking up some small leaf perch shims along with the axle to try and get less angle after the install.

 

Shims only work with sye, the yokes are supposed to be parallel with a slip yoke style driveshaft.

 

Ohhh, understood. Well, I suppose all I can really do is swap it in and go from there.

I'd like to do a hack and tap SYE for my 242 in the near future w/ a stock front driveshaft anyway.

 

Not true. Shims do what shims do. Space and adjust angle. You can have a need for shims on a non SYE driveline.

 

You can have a need for them, but the way he described using them wasn’t correct. With a sye driveline you aim the pinion at the transfercase, with a slip yoke style driveline you want to have the output and pinion parallel.