Cutting fenders
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: San Diego
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I finished my front end I have 4.5 RE springs, RC adjustable upper and lower control arms, RC adjustable track bar, Rc QD sway bar, rear has 3" RE leaf packs and shocks from when I bought it a year ago. I went wheeling with other friends this past weekend and and putting new 32x11.5x15 MT on new 15x8, I got a few clean cuts in the **** and crinkled my fenders after QD the sway bar. I like to have the flex and dont want bump stops. If I cut the fenders for clearance would I still have enough 'meat' left on the fender to put on a set of bushwackers? Thanks in advance
Check out my weekender build
Check out my weekender build
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I finished my front end I have 4.5 RE springs, RC adjustable upper and lower control arms, RC adjustable track bar, Rc QD sway bar, rear has 3" RE leaf packs and shocks from when I bought it a year ago. I went wheeling with other friends this past weekend and and putting new 32x11.5x15 MT on new 15x8, I got a few clean cuts in the **** and crinkled my fenders after QD the sway bar. I like to have the flex and dont want bump stops. If I cut the fenders for clearance would I still have enough 'meat' left on the fender to put on a set of bushwackers? Thanks in advance
Check out my weekender build
Check out my weekender build
Not to be that guy... but,
We are being KILLED in this section with so much work we cant keep up... every single day there are tons of threads posted in here that are not even fabrication related... We have tried everything and this sticky im going to link you to has been there since april right after we started this section... yet nobody seems to be reading it and nobody seems to know what fabrication is... The sticky will explain it to you in better detail what WE are looking for... PLEASE read it... this section is in jeopardy of going away if things dont start to go correct NOW...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/ultimate-guide-fabrication-85599
Definition from Wiki...
Fabrication as an industrial term refers to building metal structures by cutting, bending, and assembling. The cutting part of fabrication is via sawing, shearing, or chiseling (all with manual and powered variants); torching with handheld torches (such as oxy-fuel torches or plasma torches); and via CNC cutters (using a laser, torch, or water jet). The bending is via hammering (manual or powered) or via press brakes and similar tools. The assembling (joining of the pieces) is via welding, binding with adhesives, riveting, threaded fasteners, or even yet more bending in the form of a crimped seam. Structural steel and sheet metal are the usual starting materials for fabrication, along with the welding wire, flux, and fasteners that will join the cut pieces. As with other manufacturing processes, both human labor and automation are commonly used. The product resulting from (the process of) fabrication may be called a fabrication. Shops that specialize in this type of metal work are called fab shops. The end products of other common types of metalworking, such as machining, metal stamping, forging, and casting, may be similar in shape and function, but those processes are not classified as fabrication.
We are being KILLED in this section with so much work we cant keep up... every single day there are tons of threads posted in here that are not even fabrication related... We have tried everything and this sticky im going to link you to has been there since april right after we started this section... yet nobody seems to be reading it and nobody seems to know what fabrication is... The sticky will explain it to you in better detail what WE are looking for... PLEASE read it... this section is in jeopardy of going away if things dont start to go correct NOW...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/ultimate-guide-fabrication-85599
Definition from Wiki...
Fabrication as an industrial term refers to building metal structures by cutting, bending, and assembling. The cutting part of fabrication is via sawing, shearing, or chiseling (all with manual and powered variants); torching with handheld torches (such as oxy-fuel torches or plasma torches); and via CNC cutters (using a laser, torch, or water jet). The bending is via hammering (manual or powered) or via press brakes and similar tools. The assembling (joining of the pieces) is via welding, binding with adhesives, riveting, threaded fasteners, or even yet more bending in the form of a crimped seam. Structural steel and sheet metal are the usual starting materials for fabrication, along with the welding wire, flux, and fasteners that will join the cut pieces. As with other manufacturing processes, both human labor and automation are commonly used. The product resulting from (the process of) fabrication may be called a fabrication. Shops that specialize in this type of metal work are called fab shops. The end products of other common types of metalworking, such as machining, metal stamping, forging, and casting, may be similar in shape and function, but those processes are not classified as fabrication.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
This thread has been flagged for relocation.
On that note, OP, bumpstops are not only important for keeping the tires off the fenders but also you risk the chance of blowing out shocks when those are used improperly as bumpstops. I use to be that guy like you and though they only limited flex. You can trim all day if you want but you still risk the chanace every time you crest some rocks.
On that note, OP, bumpstops are not only important for keeping the tires off the fenders but also you risk the chance of blowing out shocks when those are used improperly as bumpstops. I use to be that guy like you and though they only limited flex. You can trim all day if you want but you still risk the chanace every time you crest some rocks.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 88
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From: Papillion, NE
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ummmm . . . isn't that kind of exactly what they do?
Sure they do it for beneficial reasons, but I'm pretty sure their entire purpose is to stop you from flexing to the point where you damage something.
Sure they do it for beneficial reasons, but I'm pretty sure their entire purpose is to stop you from flexing to the point where you damage something.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 402
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From: East Texas
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
they limit up travel and keep the tires out of the fenders. with 32's, you can trim enough that they stuff, but as others said, shocks will be damaged as thats the only thing stopping the axle from moving higher
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From: Longview, TX
Year: 1998
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From: Eaton Co
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https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/lo...24-12-a-32980/
Last edited by XJmike0122; Jan 28, 2015 at 04:55 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,132
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From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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The reason bump stops don't limit your flex is because they turn up-travel into down-travel on the opposite side.
When you stuff one tire into the bump stop it acts as a pivot point for the axle to travel down on the opposite side.
This is also why it's important to have front and rear stops. If you only had the front then when you stuff your front tire the body will roll over and stuff the rear tire into the fender. With both front and rear bump stopped then your down travel is where your rig will shine.
When you stuff one tire into the bump stop it acts as a pivot point for the axle to travel down on the opposite side.
This is also why it's important to have front and rear stops. If you only had the front then when you stuff your front tire the body will roll over and stuff the rear tire into the fender. With both front and rear bump stopped then your down travel is where your rig will shine.
100% agree with XJlimited. At the top of this section there is a LOW COG thread by ktmracer i believe. I think you will find a lot of answers there. Could save you time and $$$.



