Custom offroad buggy build help
#1
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Year: 1997
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Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
Custom offroad buggy build help
Well guys i've started this thread because i'm going to start building an offroad buggy in 2012. My issue is that this is my first real build and i'll need help and knowledgable advice on this. Here's what i'm going to want incorporated:
I want the engine in the front. Small two seater, so it'll be a small driveshaft.
A decently high torque MANUAL TRANS and t-case to fit.
An V8 or bigger engine to rebuild. No power add ons like NO2 or turbo.
HD front and rear axles with new lockers.
Jeep wheels with 33" tires.
What chasis can i buy to fit all of this? Can i have one made??
What i would want the chasis to look like kind of; basic, light.
http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/berr_i...D+2+Seat+Frame
All my progress and pics will get posted when i start here soon.
I want the engine in the front. Small two seater, so it'll be a small driveshaft.
A decently high torque MANUAL TRANS and t-case to fit.
An V8 or bigger engine to rebuild. No power add ons like NO2 or turbo.
HD front and rear axles with new lockers.
Jeep wheels with 33" tires.
What chasis can i buy to fit all of this? Can i have one made??
What i would want the chasis to look like kind of; basic, light.
http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/berr_i...D+2+Seat+Frame
All my progress and pics will get posted when i start here soon.
#2
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Year: 1998
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i'm not gonna lie you sound over your head... but here's my professional opinion's d44 fr/ ford 9in rear narrow tracks out of an old small bronco or custom axles.... 5.3l ls engine out of a gm truck (easily make 400 crank hp with bolt ons) sm465, 205 case.. frame build and suspention you better do your homework and be a hell of a fabricator... good luck to you you will need it... my build is in the builds section titled jeep thing it's a cherokee at heart... check that out complete from scratch buggy for the street might be helpfull (not done yet)
#3
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Year: 1992 2 door sport
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Not trying to be rude but why post this here? It's not going to be much of a Cherokee just by using jeep wheels. You would have better luck in a buggy forum.
#4
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Year: 1999
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Id love to see you build it, but I don't see the point in building a buggy to run 33's. Pick up some one ton axles (D60s, 14B, Sterling, Eaton) and run some big tires. Check out the Cherokee section on Pirate 4x4, they have exactly what you're looking at doing. Just a word of advice, don't post up there asking the same question you asked here or you're gonna get flamed pretty good. Look around and research your options.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=83
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=83
#5
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Year: 1991
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I think he means 43s like sxs or something. I hope so anyway. Nothing against 33s but if your gonna build a buggy that's a ton of work to only run 33s.
#6
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i have to agree with the above, if youre building a buggy go with ton or bigger axles and 36's at the least (i personally think that buggys look odd with anything smaller than a 38 but i have neither the time nor the money to build one) the difference in money shouldnt hold you back if you are building a full out buggy on a purchased chasis.
#7
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Year: 1994
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That link you posted is a VW based buggy chassis, it would take a ton of work to make that chassis work with what you to do. Your best bet would be to start off with a TJ Wrangler frame and build off that. Factory multi link mounts front and rear, correct suspension geometry is key to any build like this.
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#8
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Year: 1997
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Build your cherokee and wheel it til it wont go where you want it to. Then build a buggy. By then you'll actually be able to wheel the buggy til its fullest potential.
#9
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Year: 97
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Google companies like Jim's Garage and EOR, both make good buggy chassis as does Jimmie Smith and Coleworx. But start saving your pennies cause they ain't cheap. Like stated 33s are going to look funny and limit the buggies ability. Plan on tons or rocks, LS engines, Atlas t-case and at least 40s. If you do most of the work it's still going to be around 25k with a store bought chassis. A less flamer forum is hardlinecrawlers.com. Lots of good tech and buggies for sale too. Look at the vendor section on there for some of the names I listed above.
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OK I have been reading this trying to figure a nice way to respond to it.
Definately seems like you are in over your head as far as building one from scratch. Best thing to d ois to buy an all ready built buggy/truggy/rig. Wish I would have figured this out yrs ago.
Also just because you are building a buggy doesnt mean it has to have tons and 40's. I know a bunch of ppl running fab housings and 37's and they are true buggies.
Definately seems like you are in over your head as far as building one from scratch. Best thing to d ois to buy an all ready built buggy/truggy/rig. Wish I would have figured this out yrs ago.
Also just because you are building a buggy doesnt mean it has to have tons and 40's. I know a bunch of ppl running fab housings and 37's and they are true buggies.
#11
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Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by PingPong
OK I have been reading this trying to figure a nice way to respond to it.
Definately seems like you are in over your head as far as building one from scratch. Best thing to d ois to buy an all ready built buggy/truggy/rig. Wish I would have figured this out yrs ago.
Also just because you are building a buggy doesnt mean it has to have tons and 40's. I know a bunch of ppl running fab housings and 37's and they are true buggies.
Definately seems like you are in over your head as far as building one from scratch. Best thing to d ois to buy an all ready built buggy/truggy/rig. Wish I would have figured this out yrs ago.
Also just because you are building a buggy doesnt mean it has to have tons and 40's. I know a bunch of ppl running fab housings and 37's and they are true buggies.
#12
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Year: 87
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I agree 33's would be a waste, unless you are building a kids buggy
There are definately nicer frames available, keep in mind that is only part of the battle. Wiring and setting up brake pedals, and doing the lil things add up quick and take a long time.
There are definately nicer frames available, keep in mind that is only part of the battle. Wiring and setting up brake pedals, and doing the lil things add up quick and take a long time.
#13
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Year: 1999
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Why only 33s? What about steering? What axles .. okay you go Dana 60s, you need gears, knuckles, brackets. enless you gonna leave all that stock for 33s, but then your axles are gonna hang low. ..Can you weld? do you own a welder or pipe bender.
You should just buy a used buggy from Pirate or just lift lock and gear a cherokee.
Idk im just saying but its seems that with your post your a bit in over your head.
You should just buy a used buggy from Pirate or just lift lock and gear a cherokee.
Idk im just saying but its seems that with your post your a bit in over your head.
#14
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I don't see a problem with 33's, but if I were going that small, I'd stick to an ultra light buggy with a four cylinder engine. Something like a Samurai based buggy. Toyota axles or D44's would be more than up to the task without breaking the bank. Without body work and weight, you could go many places.
But I agree, you sound a little over your head on this one. No offense, cause everyone starts out that way, but it can be an expensive lesson to learn.
But I agree, you sound a little over your head on this one. No offense, cause everyone starts out that way, but it can be an expensive lesson to learn.
#15
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How much wheeling experience do you have? What type of wheeling do you do? How much fabricating experience? Why a buggy? What kind of suspension? What's your budget?
To me it's a lot more fun to wheel a full-bodied rig that will surprise the **** out of people than a buggy that's not done right and won't climb a curb.
BUT, if I were to build a rig 100% on your guidelines with 33s.. It would be LS1 or LS2 powered (all aluminum), SM420 (light for it's strength, best low range), NP241OR (light, 4:1), and probably Dana 60s cause I'd get bored of 33s in a day. Suspension would depend on budget, but lots of links with either coils, coilovers or air shocks. Also depending on budget front and rear hydraulic steering with with cutting brakes and onboard air would be nice.