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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 03:54 AM
  #16  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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so you cant install a 97 and up motor in a 96 and down jeep.Extend the rear temp sender wire to newer style thermostat cts ground and it work the gauge....in laymens terms.
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 02:11 AM
  #17  
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
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Originally Posted by freegdr
so you cant install a 97 and up motor in a 96 and down jeep.Extend the rear temp sender wire to newer style thermostat cts ground and it work the gauge....in laymens terms.
Looking at a 0630 head I have around (early OBD-II, 1996-1999 use,) it seems that the boss is still in place - but that it wasn't drilled & tapped.

Options:
- Locate boss, punch to locate drill, D&T 1/8" NPT to accept switch.
- Get a "hose bung." Typically, this is an aluminum part that has hose barbs on both ends, and a short section in the middle with a threaded port or two (typically 3/8" NPT, which fits most common parts.)
- Drill a hole in a radiator tank, and solder a bung there.
- Find a "non-invasive fan control kit," instead of using a "wet" sensor, it runs a sense rod through the radiator fins against a core tube to sense the temperature. Check with Flex-A-Lite or other companies that supply for the RV/recreational towing industry for these, you can often find them in local stores.

Probably a couple I'm not thinking of - those are just the first ones.
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 02:26 AM
  #18  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by 5-90
Looking at a 0630 head I have around (early OBD-II, 1996-1999 use,) it seems that the boss is still in place - but that it wasn't drilled & tapped.

Options:
- Locate boss, punch to locate drill, D&T 1/8" NPT to accept switch.
- Get a "hose bung." Typically, this is an aluminum part that has hose barbs on both ends, and a short section in the middle with a threaded port or two (typically 3/8" NPT, which fits most common parts.)
- Drill a hole in a radiator tank, and solder a bung there.
- Find a "non-invasive fan control kit," instead of using a "wet" sensor, it runs a sense rod through the radiator fins against a core tube to sense the temperature. Check with Flex-A-Lite or other companies that supply for the RV/recreational towing industry for these, you can often find them in local stores.

Probably a couple I'm not thinking of - those are just the first ones.
I have seen all these options , you seem to be the electrical guru here in your opinion the only way to see if other way would work is just try it .
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 10:39 PM
  #19  
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Year: 1988
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Originally Posted by freegdr
I have seen all these options , you seem to be the electrical guru here in your opinion the only way to see if other way would work is just try it .
No - if you want to use the CTS in the back of the head to trigger the fan, "just try it" will NOT work.

You must find a SWITCH that is going to work at the temperature you want (for that location, I'd probably look for one that triggers ON at 205*F and OFF at 195*F,) because the OEM sensor found in that hole is a sensor with a variable resistance, NOT a switch. You MUST use a switch to drive a relay - and I don't know if you can find one threaded 1/8" NPT, which is why I threw out the other options.
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 03:22 AM
  #20  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Not worried about fan am wondering about gauge on dash .
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