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Cross member broken bolt

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Old 08-31-2011, 09:18 AM
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Default Cross member broken bolt

Ok so the title says it all, last night I tried loosening the cross member bolts (after a week of pb blasting them) for a transfer case drop and the first broke off at 1/4 turn.
I understand i need to drill out and tap. but time does not permit. do you think it will be OK to drive on a 3 hr trip (one way) with one broken bolt in the cross member. or should i take off work for a couple of hrs and fix it before I leave?
Old 08-31-2011, 09:31 AM
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Everyone will say something different but I say run it. Don't get to crazy on the skinny peddle but you'll be fine. I had one break and I drove it daily for about 6 months before I remembered to drill and tap it. I have 33's and no problems. Plus I wheeled it a few times.
Old 08-31-2011, 09:42 AM
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Kind of what I was thinking myself
Old 08-31-2011, 10:37 AM
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I would say you would be fine, until you get a chance to fix it.... Just make sure the side with only 1 Bolt holding it on..... is the old german word...."goodntight"
Old 08-31-2011, 11:59 AM
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As others have said, 3 bolts will hold it but definitely something I would put on my list to address at some point.

Drilling and tapping isn't gonna be a good option. The crossmember bolts go into welded nuts in the frame.

The 2 "easy" fixes are to punch out the welded nut and install a nut sert (This is what they do at the dealer) or weld new nuts to 3/16" steel plate, make the holes bigger so the nuts can sit up in the frame rail and weld that plate to the bottom of the frame.
Old 08-31-2011, 12:04 PM
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if you can wheel hard on 4 bolts, you can definitely daily drive just fine with 3
Old 08-31-2011, 12:43 PM
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i read somewhere else that the nuts are big enough (wall thickness) to be tapped to 7/16s. Look it up its on this forum.Ive been driving with 3 bolts for about 3 months now. Its on my list of things to do but its ok. Im gonna tap it to 7/16s, after i re-check the info.
Old 08-31-2011, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Pnguyen7
i read somewhere else that the nuts are big enough (wall thickness) to be tapped to 7/16s. Look it up its on this forum.Ive been driving with 3 bolts for about 3 months now. Its on my list of things to do but its ok. Im gonna tap it to 7/16s, after i re-check the info.
My point was that those welds love to break off. If you can get it drilled and tapped without it shearing then go for it.
Old 08-31-2011, 01:35 PM
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One other thing to watch out for when drilling it is that a 7/16 is 11mm. The stock bolts are 10mm. 1mm isn't a lot of room for error there in regard to having enough material to re-thread.
Old 08-31-2011, 10:05 PM
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drill with 3/8ths and tap with 7/16th. heard alot of ppl do this. as long as the welds hold that is
Old 07-01-2012, 03:49 PM
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What did you end up doing? I am in this exact same situation...
Old 07-01-2012, 04:06 PM
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This will work if your using a tcase drop spacer

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...-studs-130729/
Old 07-01-2012, 06:26 PM
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I also think it would be fine.. Witch side is the bolt you snapped on? Just worried about how the torque from the engine will twist on those 3 bolts...
The PO of my xj snapped on and welded it down, I wish I had realized that before purchasing a T-case drop
Old 07-01-2012, 07:30 PM
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I am staying stock for the TC. I snapped the bolt on the passenger side. I just need to make it to Wednesday when I am going to be putting my motor mounts in also. I thought I'd get a head start by doing the trans mount now, an it's good I did!

Edit: I lied, it was the bolt on the drivers side. I felt pretty stupid when I jacked up the wrong side, climbed under with my drill and went, "Whoops..."

Last edited by cookrw; 07-02-2012 at 06:22 PM.
Old 07-02-2012, 06:03 PM
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I fixed it! I just used a drill bit and tap set that I bought at Lowes. It was about $3 and it included a 3/8" drill bit and a 7/16" tap. Bought a 1" grade 8 bolt and washer and a half hour later, all was well with the world again! (I will post a picture a little later)


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