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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #16  
jeepxjtrails's Avatar
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From: athens alabama
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
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I thought you was kidding about the ring gear shaving the housing i can see shaving a little off but not much

I ll go check it out tho thanks
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:24 AM
  #17  
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
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you shave the edge of the ring gear, and knock off the bottom of the pumpkin and weld a new plate. very popular. so popular ballistics fabrication is thinking of making a kit even...
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:40 AM
  #18  
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From: athens alabama
Year: 1990
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Well i owe ya one
And the do have a kit
And gaining 2 inches of clearance makes this a good setup thank for the tip cuz waiting on a price quote
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 03:32 AM
  #19  
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From: Lynchburg, Va.
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2/318 MSD Electronic Upgrades
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Originally Posted by XJSETH
35s plus a 14 bolt is gonna hurt you. It will drag over every rock. Plus the 14 bolt has 8 lugs not 5. Your 15 inch wheels might clear the drums but I doubt it. I see 40s and 17inch wheels in your future. Just my .02
This.

I wouldn't waste time putting 35s on a 14 bolt. I don't think I would go any lower than a 37" tire no matter the terrain. Your ground clearance from the pumpkin won't be that great with the 35s. You'll be bumping and dragging it right much.

I've talked and wheeled with this guy and his brother. Max has a ZJ ( I know, I know... but for a reference) with the 60f/ 14rear on 40 tires. It shows the changes he went through to run the axles...

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627998

I second the comment on reading on Pirate4x4 in the Cherokee section a little and looking at some builds that have been done.

Good luck to you!
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 05:34 AM
  #20  
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From: athens alabama
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
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Ok i take a look at the link when off wensday n Thursday cuz my phone don't like big web pages
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 05:54 AM
  #21  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
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14bolt and 35's is stupid... what good is a big old axle if your dragging it around under your Jeep? Yes there strong.... no u won't break it... but with 35's u wont break a 8.8 or d44 or even a 8.25 either... this is like hooking a rope to your Jeep... and another to a fiat that someone gave u for free... and dragging it behind u on the trails... go to 40's... or sell them both... install a 8.8... and ride to dairy queen with the extra money you'll have left over... lol...
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 08:45 AM
  #22  
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From: KS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Originally Posted by 96_xj
it would be decent if he shaved the pumpkin and ring gear and make it a 13 bolt
Shaving the housing to a 13 bolt does not require the ring gear to be turned. I shaved my housing and used this cover...

http://undercoverfab.com/fabricated-...iff-cover.html
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #23  
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
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Originally Posted by Sean883
Shaving the housing to a 13 bolt does not require the ring gear to be turned. I shaved my housing and used this cover...

http://undercoverfab.com/fabricated-...iff-cover.html
It depends on how much clearance you want to gain. some do some dont. I advise since you are in there anyways.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 02:32 PM
  #24  
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From: Kearns
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I ran 35's under a bronco with a ford 10.25, not quite as big as a 14 bolt, when I got 37's I also installed a gm 14 bolt. (it was cheaper to swap axles than re-gear...)

yes 35's and a one ton axle will drag, be heavy and over kill, you may have to winch off of some things but you won't ever have to even think about breaking an axle shaft.

The 14 bolt can be ground anywhere from a little and still using the factory cover or shaved requiring the ring gear to be machined down a bit. (Ballistics fab makes a kit for that) The maximum shave will make it higher than a stock dana 60 at its lowest point.

The advantages are numerous of the 14 bolt though. Cheap, damn near indestructible, east to setup gears, pinion bearing support...

Check your axle width, it should be 67.5 for a "regular truck axle" or 63.5 for a cab and chassis width. I am converting my 67.5 inch one to 63.5 using dually hubs and ruff stuff disk brake brackets. (build thread coming soon)

check this link for all stuff 14 bolt, including the width explanation
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ble/index.html

If you don't want to go 8 lug I would try to sell the 14 bolts, the one with the Detroit is worth at least $400, maybe more if it is the 63.5 WMS one. Then pick up an explorer 8.8.

Nathan
- coming soon a built up full size bronco and an xj become one...
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #25  
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From: DeKalb, IL
Year: 2008 JKU (my XJ is long gone)
Engine: 3.8
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I am working on my 14 Bolt and HP 60 combo right now. As mentioned above Ballistic Fab has a wicked kit for shaving the 14 and gaining a couple inches of ground clearance. I would say ditch the drum breaks and save a LOT of weight. Both Ballistic and Ruff Stuff have brackets for using chevy calipers and rotors on the 14B. I'm narrowing the 60 to match the 14B. Really need to update my build thread....
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #26  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by AWOL
I am working on my 14 Bolt and HP 60 combo right now. As mentioned above Ballistic Fab has a wicked kit for shaving the 14 and gaining a couple inches of ground clearance. I would say ditch the drum breaks and save a LOT of weight. Both Ballistic and Ruff Stuff have brackets for using chevy calipers and rotors on the 14B. I'm narrowing the 60 to match the 14B. Really need to update my build thread....
have u decided what joints your gonna run for the dana 60 and what style suspension? im building mine right now... looking at ballistics joints but not sure what size to run... want it to handle a 60 though... lol
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 07:48 PM
  #27  
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From: athens alabama
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
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I would definitely get rid of drums and go disc brakes that would be a must just in weight but in reality i will be upgrading to at least 37 in the distance future so i would rather use what i have an since 6000.00 $$$ axles that i can't afford and the 14 bolt that i have zero $$ in just makes sense and the fact remains heavy or not they don't break unless you really do somethin to break em
And some mod to 14 b can make it all the better
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #28  
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From: Columbus Grove , Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I built a 14 bolt for an old project but now that I don't have the other project it will be going under my Xj and on 35's. I plan to smooth the housing quite a bit and call it good for now since there are no real rocks in Ohio.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #29  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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for what it's worth heres my truck corp 14 with 36s less than a foot to the ground:

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #30  
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From: DeKalb, IL
Year: 2008 JKU (my XJ is long gone)
Engine: 3.8
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217

have u decided what joints your gonna run for the dana 60 and what style suspension? im building mine right now... looking at ballistics joints but not sure what size to run... want it to handle a 60 though... lol
I have the front narrowed down to match the 14b. As for the suspension I am using my existing long arm kit from Iron Rock Off Road. A lot of people seem to run 2.63 ballistic joints on there link set ups.

Last edited by AWOL; Feb 2, 2011 at 05:06 PM.
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