Originally Posted by Modrod

It's the same concept as buying a whole radiator with a radiator cap. Many people have done this filler neck T mod and have had no problems. Just like anything else, if there is another problem or the cap is bad then it won't work. It all works together and if one part doesn't then it will fail.

And even though it's converted to an open system with the T, you have to burp out all the air or you will not have enough water in it and it will overheat regardless of which system or method you use.

Many people pour coolant into the filler neck and when the coolant fills the neck, they put the cap on and run it down the road. The problem is the trapped air keeps the water from filling the system completely and you will overheat.

So, either wait until the air bubbles out "which takes a longer time". Or, pull the temp sender off the back of the head and let the air escape quicker and put it back in.

Originally Posted by freegdr

open systems dont get burped just wait for thermostat to open fill and install cap it will push all air out and suck water in from over flo bottle during normal operation

Originally Posted by Modrod

They don't need to be burped if you wait for the stat to pop, but I want to fill it and finish it. If you wait till the stat pops that is like 10 or 15 minutes. If I pull the sender and fill it and put it back in, it is only 5 minutes. Many people don't wait till the stat pops and leave the air in it and it will overheat because of trapped air causing the system to be under filled. I am explaining it in a way to keep people from screwing it up and blaming the T or thinking that there is something wrong with their cooling system.
I'm an ex mechanic and still have that time is money thing in me so I like to get stuff done quickly and as efficiently as possible.

Originally Posted by freegdr

even easer way fill thru top hose off thermo husing replace hose fill over flo bottle done

Originally Posted by Modrod

I wouldn't say it is easier, just a different way. You are either unscrewing a hose clamp or a brass sending unit. I like doing it from the back of the head because that is where air is usually trapped.

Originally Posted by freegdr

it work same either way , waiting for thermo is way ive always done it used to same routine ya no

Originally Posted by Modrod

Yup, I have done it both ways. On some of my cars there is no easy way to get the air out except to let the stat pop. My SRT4 has a little bleeder valve at the stat housing that makes it easy. But on my older cars that I have had, I always just let it run until the stat popped and topped it off.
It boils down to what you prefer and are used to. There is more than one way to skin a cat. As long as the end result is the same.
You up late or early. lol

Originally Posted by freegdr

early ,how ya like that srt 4 quick little sucker my son has one its orange

Originally Posted by freegdr

early ,how ya like that srt 4 quick little sucker my son has one its orange

Originally Posted by Modrod

Mine looks stock except for the projector beam headlights I have on it. I like sleepers. lol
I put a 50 trim DB on it and it ran 12.8 @ 114 and gets 29 mph on the highway and 22 in town. I have always had V8's and with the gas getting crazy high, I decided to try a 4 banger turbo. I bought in 04 and it has put up with my abuse. I am a famous transmission breaker. lol So this poor car has put up with that.

Here's mine on a hill to our parking lot. I work at a Casino in Blackhawk Colorado.

Originally Posted by freegdr

aint brooke the shifter collar yet...you will my son hopped his up and got the diablo tune thing im old school big blocks and big carbs and bump sticks but there deff sleepers

Originally Posted by Culprite

i have never had a problem with the closed system i run at about 160 to 175 at most, what would cause the bottle to crack?

Originally Posted by Culprite

i have never had a problem with the closed system i run at about 160 to 175 at most, what would cause the bottle to crack?