the tee gets cut into the upper rad hose (near the ac) and i just plugged the heater hoses with old socket extensions 3/8 for the small hose and 1/2 inch for the big hose ( or something else that fits in there snug ) then clamp them. i ran the overflow into a plastic jug. the reason for plugging was that i did not know if this was even going to work as nothing else did.as far as im concerned its a permanant fix. i have two 89's and the other one dosn't have this prob. has the same set up. anyway, this works great. if your not up to changing the radiator and i see no reason for it to fail.

 

Alright thanks for the help, time to order some parts up

 

oh yea , get a tee that will fit the middle of your hose. the middle will not be as wide as the end of hose so order the right tee size. i ordered a tee that was a little too big and had to grind off the raised part of the openings. but no biggy.

 

How big is the tee? I found a link on another post and its for a 1 1/2" filler tee is this too big?

 

go to the junk yard cut a top hose open where your gonna install the tee and measure it maybe

 

I could do that, but according to my mom I have to pay by the hour to go in, or something like that. And I'd have to get something else at the same time, maybe do the whole HO upgrade to my renix. butttttttt i don't have enough money or time to do that, yet. Thanks though

 

u pulli it yard charge 1 or 2 dollars addmission fee you dont gotta buy any thing ,and you never no what you gonna find when in there its like a candy store ...lol...

 

If you get the Dodge Durango filler neck you can eliminate the spooge bottle. Do a search for the mod to get the correct year. I can't remember. But it is a neck with a radiator cap and you just splice into your existing top rad hose and your done. You will have to get rid of the hoses that go into the old bottle but that is a good thing.

 

i ordered the 1 1/2 tee , the filler dont matter its the two openings that the hoses fit on . the one i got was a little too wide for that section of hose that i cut it in.so i had to lightly grind the raised beveld little nubby doohicky thang that the hose fits over. because the hose is smaller in that section. i don,t know the exact measurement.but order 1 1/2 filler tee with a little smaller hose fitting section ( i guess its a little smaller than 1 1/2 ). and if you got to grind to fit its simple any way.when your done it will be like driving a new jeep. arizona iced tea jug as my overflow. it fits rite in that little pocket behind ac. everyone in my head is happy with the results

 

Awesome, good job.

 

They make a 5/8 to 3/4 adapter that you can use to put the hoses together. I bought mine at Oreilly Auto parts.

 

UPDATE:
There are some problems with the Durango/Dodge filler neck fix for the closed to open cooling system conversion. The stock upper radiator hose on our XJ's is very small compared to most car/trucks/suv's. The Dodge filler neck is about 1 3/4 of an inch and the hose on our radiators are only 1 1/4. So it is tricky getting the hose to fit or adapt to it.
So, I think the best way to put a filler neck and eliminate the closed system is to get the SUMMIT RACING MOROSO filler neck which is about the same price $28 + shipping. It is 1 1/4 out diameter and our radiator hoses are 1 1/4 inner diameter. Perfect match.

The part is:

 

DO NOT BUY THE TEE, IT WILL NOT WORK!!!

I did this and forced it to fit, even though the hoses are pretty small.

The issue is this does not solve the problem. I had same issues after I did this tee, with a rad cap. The only solution that worked for me after a year of battling this and replacing everything in the cooling system was this....

Go to parts store and order a 96+ Jeep cherokee radiator ($106 dollars) it already has the radiator filler neck on it. Buy a rad cap, a $7 dollar over flow tank and some small tubing to run from rad cap to overflow tank.

Problem solved, temp stays under 200F now even on the highway and I live in florida.

Also fab up a better shroud for your fans. I looked and my factory electrical fan had over a 1 inch gap around all of the sides, weaksauce....I bought some gaket material and sandwiched it between rad and fan so the fan pulls air directly through the radiator.

 

It isn't the fact that my cooling systen doesn't work, if anything it cools too much, it is just I'd rather be on the trail/road and spill coolant out of the rad cap or overflow bottle than bursting another hole in my upper rad hose or bursting a hole in the pressure bottle. And after having a fairly new cap for the bottle (3 monthsish old) I discovered it had cracks on the threads as well as the realease spring broke in two... So once i get the time and money, I will be buying the tee and replumbing the lines to the heater core. But what I like to say is, whatever works works! And thanks for the advise regardless.

 

It's the same concept as buying a whole radiator with a radiator cap. Many people have done this filler neck T mod and have had no problems. Just like anything else, if there is another problem or the cap is bad then it won't work. It all works together and if one part doesn't then it will fail.

The stock XJ Renix radiator seems to fail after about 180k so if people do the mod because of overheating and it doesn't work they think the method does not work. So then if you buy a new 92+ radiator, you are fixing the main problem which is not that your closed system is flawed, it is that your radiator is junk. They get clogged up with sediment and won't cool the engine. I have a new radiator in mine and still on the closed system. It cools great. No overheating. But, the bottle leaks and I had to put a hose clamp around the cap on the bottle to seal it tight. The main problem in the closed system is the bottle. If the bottle was well made it would work fine.

And even though it's converted to an open system with the T, you have to burp out all the air or you will not have enough water in it and it will overheat regardless of which system or method you use.

Many people pour coolant into the filler neck and when the coolant fills the neck, they put the cap on and run it down the road. The problem is the trapped air keeps the water from filling the system completely and you will overheat.

So, either wait until the air bubbles out "which takes a longer time". Or, pull the temp sender off the back of the head and let the air escape quicker and put it back in.