I agree cant be done.

I guess this wouldn't be 36's on 4.5"

I'm usually a very good guesser.

When you bump stop properly it actually increases flex. The axle hits the bump stop and the axle acts as a lever pushing the opposite end down.

^that jeep looks like it has a sway bar hooked up... bump stops wont make a leaf spring out flex a 4 link lol

You mean a leaf spring can flex?! LOL I was talking about proper bumps in the front. I am welded in the rear and locked in the front so I will trade a little less flex and lifting a wheel over the extra height to have mad flex with my 36's. I like the stability.

And if that Jeep is not flexing better than that it HAS to have a sway bar hooked up.

yeah thats with the swaybar hooked up, need some coils with a bit more flex as well, still gets around alright though.

I unerstand that but at the same time its gonna push the side hitting the bump stop up causing the body to lean to the opposite side.

The amount that it does is very negligible. If you could tell the difference I would be amazed. And the only time it would cause more lean would be at full bump on one side and full droop on the other.

well even full bump on one and full droop on the other wouldn't necessarily cause a lean. In Xj's the lean is caused more by the rear suspension then the front. the leafs will work harder(be forced to flex more) once the front hits the bump stop. fixing the "lean" over an obstacle has more to do with the line you choose then the bump stop.
if the right front is maxed out it will push pass side, but only to compress the left rear. If the left rear is maxed and the right front is to then the body has to do the moving and you get the lean. If the rear isn't maxed out then you will hang a front tire and the body will be stable with the forces holding it on the bump stop.

Happened. Steers fine and no rubbing plus no bump stops. Im gonna start a new thread in afew days about the build once I get some flex pics.

i have 35's on 3.5 inches of lift right now...... but it cant be done.


OP-looks good, but you really shouldnt have trimmed the rear like that. do a quick search to find out why.

It doesn't really cause the body to lean. As someone else said its more dependant on the rear suspension though. Mine for example, if the rear is semi level, and one front tire is mated out, it will force the body up, but straight up. One front tire will go up the obstacle and one will stay down, no lean because the rear springs are keeping the body level.
Oh and I'm on 4.5-5" of lift on 35's with no problems, good trimming, a little hammering and viola no problem.

This looks like a good place to get some help. 6.5 la on 36s. I've cut out a ton on the front now I'm trying to massage the inner fender well some because I was still watching chunks of swamper get ripped off while wheeling yesterday what's the most common thing to do with the "spine" the runs along the front fender well. Looks like it has some pinch welds an holds the inner well in. I finally cut enough to stop rubbing the outside of the fender but now I'm all up on this. I really wanna get all the room I can before I put the bumpstops in so i am actually getting the full potential before I limit it. Any help with pics of inner fender well work would be great.

a lot of people just hammer the pinch seam flat. Cut slits at about 3" apart and use a big 2-3lb sledge hammer. It will not be easy.

Actually it is pretty easy. I didn't even take my tires off. I took a long pry bar and placed it in the seam and hammered it over every inch or so till it was flat. Took like 10 minutes. My tire still rubbed it so when I had the wheels off last time I just hammered it in some more where it was rubbing. Now its good. No big deal