Cherokee XJ Dual Battery Set Up
01-31-2016, 06:32 PM
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cherokee XJ Dual Battery Set Up
Ok I'm looking to do dual batteries in the xj to run my hydraulics...just kidding on that part...for my 8 15" woofers and 4 amps... No not that either...
Ok now the truth for winching and keeping up with my air compressor, lights, inverter etc....
I have an AEM cold air intake, so the stock air box is gone, any setups out there as far as battery trays that will work with this intake?
It seems all under the hood trays mount where the air box goes...
If you have done this please post up pics also...
Ok now the truth for winching and keeping up with my air compressor, lights, inverter etc....
I have an AEM cold air intake, so the stock air box is gone, any setups out there as far as battery trays that will work with this intake?
It seems all under the hood trays mount where the air box goes...
If you have done this please post up pics also...
01-31-2016, 06:44 PM
#2
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok I'm looking to do dual batteries in the xj to run my hydraulics...just kidding on that part...for my 8 15" woofers and 4 amps... No not that either... Ok now the truth for winching and keeping up with my air compressor, lights, inverter etc.... I have an AEM cold air intake, so the stock air box is gone, any setups out there as far as battery trays that will work with this intake? It seems all under the hood trays mount where the air box goes... If you have done this please post up pics also...
01-31-2016, 07:28 PM
#3
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 2.5L MFI
That was bleepin Jeep's first setup, he then purchased the PainlessWiring Dual Battery kit and has a video on that as well. Also 12 Volt Guy has a very good kit with premium solenoids and wiring all with instructions to go in for a wee bit more.
02-01-2016, 09:31 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
I run a homemade cowl intake and dual Yellow tops with the Dirtbound offroad driver/passenger trays. I would honestly ditch the AEM hot air intake and do a cowl or some other type of intake relocation.
The only other place we have space for another battery would be the trunk but our trunk is tiny as it is.
The only other place we have space for another battery would be the trunk but our trunk is tiny as it is.
02-01-2016, 04:42 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Done... Placed an order for the dirtbound driver side tray... Let's see what I can configure now...
I run a homemade cowl intake and dual Yellow tops with the Dirtbound offroad driver/passenger trays. I would honestly ditch the AEM hot air intake and do a cowl or some other type of intake relocation.
The only other place we have space for another battery would be the trunk but our trunk is tiny as it is.
The only other place we have space for another battery would be the trunk but our trunk is tiny as it is.
02-01-2016, 05:27 PM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Dirtbound has trays, and you can also repurpose a regular battery tray to fit but it requires fabricating spacers to work properly.
Older models also require you to move the ECM off the front left fender wall to get the battery in there. You can fashion a sheet metal bracket and bolt it to the battery tray and then attach the ECU to the bracket, or maybe move the ECU to the rear of the fender wall (like later models). BJ moved his inside the cab somehow--too much work IMO.
Older models also require you to move the ECM off the front left fender wall to get the battery in there. You can fashion a sheet metal bracket and bolt it to the battery tray and then attach the ECU to the bracket, or maybe move the ECU to the rear of the fender wall (like later models). BJ moved his inside the cab somehow--too much work IMO.
02-01-2016, 08:26 PM
#7
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
For the price shipped to my door and minimum mods I think the DB is the way for me to go..
I have a 97 so I should be good.
Next will be the wiring..I think I will look in to that after I get the tray figured out.
I have a 97 so I should be good.
Next will be the wiring..I think I will look in to that after I get the tray figured out.
Dirtbound has trays, and you can also repurpose a regular battery tray to fit but it requires fabricating spacers to work properly.
Older models also require you to move the ECM off the front left fender wall to get the battery in there. You can fashion a sheet metal bracket and bolt it to the battery tray and then attach the ECU to the bracket, or maybe move the ECU to the rear of the fender wall (like later models). BJ moved his inside the cab somehow--too much work IMO.
Older models also require you to move the ECM off the front left fender wall to get the battery in there. You can fashion a sheet metal bracket and bolt it to the battery tray and then attach the ECU to the bracket, or maybe move the ECU to the rear of the fender wall (like later models). BJ moved his inside the cab somehow--too much work IMO.
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02-01-2016, 09:09 PM
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Make sure you run a battery isolator and a fuse for the 2nd battery. Tons of pre-made stuff designed for this.
For the rest of the setup, I would use this crimper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013QP...KyL&ref=plSrch
With wires and hardware from here. I would probably just get their 0\1 gauge CCA cable, but 4ga copper is probably enough.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/
And a 136 amp (Durango) alternator at a minimum. Big 3 wiring upgrade is probably a good idea (upgraded battery positive to alternator positive, battery positive to fuse block positive, and battery ground to chassis ground).
And the Dirt Bound battery tray is probably the best (possibly only) on the market.
For the rest of the setup, I would use this crimper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013QP...KyL&ref=plSrch
With wires and hardware from here. I would probably just get their 0\1 gauge CCA cable, but 4ga copper is probably enough.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/
And a 136 amp (Durango) alternator at a minimum. Big 3 wiring upgrade is probably a good idea (upgraded battery positive to alternator positive, battery positive to fuse block positive, and battery ground to chassis ground).
And the Dirt Bound battery tray is probably the best (possibly only) on the market.
02-01-2016, 09:25 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Main three cables already installed
Mean green Alternator on hand
Spare yellow top on hand
The rest needed...
Great info..thanks
Mean green Alternator on hand
Spare yellow top on hand
The rest needed...
Great info..thanks
Make sure you run a battery isolator and a fuse for the 2nd battery. Tons of pre-made stuff designed for this.
For the rest of the setup, I would use this crimper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013QP...KyL&ref=plSrch
With wires and hardware from here. I would probably just get their 0\1 gauge CCA cable, but 4ga copper is probably enough.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/
And a 136 amp (Durango) alternator at a minimum. Big 3 wiring upgrade is probably a good idea (upgraded battery positive to alternator positive, battery positive to fuse block positive, and battery ground to chassis ground).
And the Dirt Bound battery tray is probably the best (possibly only) on the market.
For the rest of the setup, I would use this crimper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013QP...KyL&ref=plSrch
With wires and hardware from here. I would probably just get their 0\1 gauge CCA cable, but 4ga copper is probably enough.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/
And a 136 amp (Durango) alternator at a minimum. Big 3 wiring upgrade is probably a good idea (upgraded battery positive to alternator positive, battery positive to fuse block positive, and battery ground to chassis ground).
And the Dirt Bound battery tray is probably the best (possibly only) on the market.
02-02-2016, 12:52 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
02-02-2016, 10:42 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
[great pics!
QUOTE=XJEvo;3207458]Nice. It takes a little time and patience to get the tray to work with 97+. I had to move my ECU over. Once the weather warms up, I'm gonna spend a lot of time cleaning up the wiring, making a new ECU mount, and adding an isolator. Right now the batteries are just hooked up in parallel. It's too damn cold and daylight is too damn short to accomplish everything I want to do.
[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=XJEvo;3207458]Nice. It takes a little time and patience to get the tray to work with 97+. I had to move my ECU over. Once the weather warms up, I'm gonna spend a lot of time cleaning up the wiring, making a new ECU mount, and adding an isolator. Right now the batteries are just hooked up in parallel. It's too damn cold and daylight is too damn short to accomplish everything I want to do.
[/QUOTE]
02-03-2016, 09:05 AM
#13
The only real advantage to dual battery is self-recovery.
But batteries will need to be isolated when not being charged. This is easily accomplished with a oil pressure sender and a Ford solenoid.
But batteries will need to be isolated when not being charged. This is easily accomplished with a oil pressure sender and a Ford solenoid.
02-03-2016, 09:12 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was talked out of a dual battery by 5-90, who we all know is the battery/electrical guru.
He asked my needs, what I wanted from my jeep, etc.
He said running the best one battery I could get plus a higher than normal alt (117, 136, whatever) would be enough.
He told me the only people he recommends dual setups for are those that rely solely on their jeep when out in the bush for days on end with no one to save their *****.
Even running a winch didn't need a dual setup, just know the limitations of your system and run the winch with the truck on only.
He asked my needs, what I wanted from my jeep, etc.
He said running the best one battery I could get plus a higher than normal alt (117, 136, whatever) would be enough.
He told me the only people he recommends dual setups for are those that rely solely on their jeep when out in the bush for days on end with no one to save their *****.
Even running a winch didn't need a dual setup, just know the limitations of your system and run the winch with the truck on only.
02-05-2016, 08:57 PM
#15
CF Veteran
I was talked out of a dual battery by 5-90, who we all know is the battery/electrical guru.
He asked my needs, what I wanted from my jeep, etc.
He said running the best one battery I could get plus a higher than normal alt (117, 136, whatever) would be enough.
He told me the only people he recommends dual setups for are those that rely solely on their jeep when out in the bush for days on end with no one to save their *****.
Even running a winch didn't need a dual setup, just know the limitations of your system and run the winch with the truck on only.
He asked my needs, what I wanted from my jeep, etc.
He said running the best one battery I could get plus a higher than normal alt (117, 136, whatever) would be enough.
He told me the only people he recommends dual setups for are those that rely solely on their jeep when out in the bush for days on end with no one to save their *****.
Even running a winch didn't need a dual setup, just know the limitations of your system and run the winch with the truck on only.
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