Cherokee 6.5 Inch lift requirements
#16
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V6 4.0
Here's a concept: it's called saving and being patient. Lolz
My jeep has been through 4 suspensions...stock, a crap puck and block setup put in by the previous owner that cracked my leaves in half, a junkyard bastard pack and coils I put on with RC short arms to get it roadworthy, and am now currently doing stiffeners and 3 link with RE components. I pieced my current lift together over two years, and did other mods one at a time to get to that point. So take it from me, cheaping out isn't the way to go.
Slow down, do some research about what needs to happen, take your time, and do it right...
My jeep has been through 4 suspensions...stock, a crap puck and block setup put in by the previous owner that cracked my leaves in half, a junkyard bastard pack and coils I put on with RC short arms to get it roadworthy, and am now currently doing stiffeners and 3 link with RE components. I pieced my current lift together over two years, and did other mods one at a time to get to that point. So take it from me, cheaping out isn't the way to go.
Slow down, do some research about what needs to happen, take your time, and do it right...
Does the chart above cover everything?
#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V6 4.0
All the kit items are for 4.5" lift, they won't fit or be useless at 6.5".
Attachment 288791
You need all new suspension sized appropriately to do that height. Not 2" blocks and an Add-A-Leaf. The front axle will be totally screwed without proper control arms and track bar.
Attachment 288791
You need all new suspension sized appropriately to do that height. Not 2" blocks and an Add-A-Leaf. The front axle will be totally screwed without proper control arms and track bar.
#18
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V6 4.0
You can get a xj front drive shaft and a hack in tap instead of sye.
Get some control arm drop brackets or cheap adjustable lowers. You can get parts separately and end of with a better lift and less cash. Shocks are a must.
Really you can just do springs and shocks and it will be fine and ride like crap.
If your interested in piecing together something instead of that cheap 4.5" lift I can send you links for a good setup for cheap for that lift height. That is quality parts and you can just add as you go..
Front brake lines can be moved and rear brake line will need replaced as well.
Don't do a t case drop. Hack in tap is easy and cheap. You can get degree shims for rear axle that will kill most your vibes if you don't want to do a hack in tap.
I get not having the cash all at once and wanting to get lift done. Really it's doable without spending a ton of cash all at once. Just know it will not ride good but many have done it just fine
Get some control arm drop brackets or cheap adjustable lowers. You can get parts separately and end of with a better lift and less cash. Shocks are a must.
Really you can just do springs and shocks and it will be fine and ride like crap.
If your interested in piecing together something instead of that cheap 4.5" lift I can send you links for a good setup for cheap for that lift height. That is quality parts and you can just add as you go..
Front brake lines can be moved and rear brake line will need replaced as well.
Don't do a t case drop. Hack in tap is easy and cheap. You can get degree shims for rear axle that will kill most your vibes if you don't want to do a hack in tap.
I get not having the cash all at once and wanting to get lift done. Really it's doable without spending a ton of cash all at once. Just know it will not ride good but many have done it just fine
#19
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V6 4.0
I could use the lower control arms that it comes with. They are short arms longer than stock. They are a bit short for a 6.5 but they should be fine with a drop bracket. I get why the TC drop bracket is useless but why would a 4.5 inch control arm be useless on a 6.5?
#20
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Year: 2001
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drop brackets will put you in range. Just please don't get yours through RC. They are a scary weak design and put a large amount of unnecessary leverage on your frame. I've seen 1 or 2 quality kits, I think I saw an old one from teraflex that looked awesome. but once you've gotten new short arms and drop brackets, you might as well have just gotten long arms...
#21
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Year: 2001
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Engine: V6 4.0
Our lift chart https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ and something else you can read https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/lo...24-12-a-32980/
#22
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My friend if you will search here on this subject I'm sure you will find many hrs. of excellent reading on the subject and answers as to why each part is needed at 6 1/2" of lift for it to work properly.
Many like myself are to poor to buy cheap as in over and over the same item by either buying cheap (poor quality) or one not designed for the job. A full kit is never the way to go if you plan on upgrading the lift, for that all you want is an entry level kit with quality full leafs/coils you can build on.
Many like myself are to poor to buy cheap as in over and over the same item by either buying cheap (poor quality) or one not designed for the job. A full kit is never the way to go if you plan on upgrading the lift, for that all you want is an entry level kit with quality full leafs/coils you can build on.
#23
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
it should make up the difference. If you've ever looked under your jeep you'll notice the paper thin stamped steel upper control arms. I'd recommend replacing all 4 arms if you plan on any off roading. almost everyone on this forum is pretty geared toward off road and we've all been through the learning curve of what breaks and what doesn't work. we're all just trying to keep more money in your pocket and help you get it right the first time
so, are you taking this thing through the trails or just to work and back?
for any off roading at all, you'll want:
drop brackets
adjustable control arms
coil springs
complete leaf springs
shackles
shocks
brake lines
double shear track bar/ track bar brace
^^minimum
Last edited by Atmos; 05-23-2016 at 02:30 PM.
#24
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
A Hack'n'Tap is a type of Slip Yoke Eliminator.
As you go upwards the geometry of the front suspension and steering changes drastically. The axle moves towards the body and to the left, and stock steering is barely usable at 4.5". Lifting without proper components to put the axle where it needs to be, just a little lower, will result in severe toe and caster problems, which will make driving it a serious pain in the *** (if not dangerous, depending on skill and how big the problem actually is).
Atmos' list is the bare minimum for that height... never mind off-roading.
Read this and it will be clear:
http://files.meetup.com/4119962/Stee...ion-basics.pdf
As you go upwards the geometry of the front suspension and steering changes drastically. The axle moves towards the body and to the left, and stock steering is barely usable at 4.5". Lifting without proper components to put the axle where it needs to be, just a little lower, will result in severe toe and caster problems, which will make driving it a serious pain in the *** (if not dangerous, depending on skill and how big the problem actually is).
Atmos' list is the bare minimum for that height... never mind off-roading.
Read this and it will be clear:
http://files.meetup.com/4119962/Stee...ion-basics.pdf
#25
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You'll be more than fine rock crawling with that suspension I listed. You'll get a good season out of it. The easiest solution is just to go 4.5" and cut your fenders. I don't know why anyone would ever want to go taller without doing it right. All hassle with zero gain
#26
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Here's a concept: it's called saving and being patient. Lolz
My jeep has been through 4 suspensions...stock, a crap puck and block setup put in by the previous owner that cracked my leaves in half, a junkyard bastard pack and coils I put on with RC short arms to get it roadworthy, and am now currently doing stiffeners and 3 link with RE components. I pieced my current lift together over two years, and did other mods one at a time to get to that point. So take it from me, cheaping out isn't the way to go.
Slow down, do some research about what needs to happen, take your time, and do it right...
My jeep has been through 4 suspensions...stock, a crap puck and block setup put in by the previous owner that cracked my leaves in half, a junkyard bastard pack and coils I put on with RC short arms to get it roadworthy, and am now currently doing stiffeners and 3 link with RE components. I pieced my current lift together over two years, and did other mods one at a time to get to that point. So take it from me, cheaping out isn't the way to go.
Slow down, do some research about what needs to happen, take your time, and do it right...
Right now it sounds to me like you want 6.5" because it looks cool...but, it will look wrong with 31's...so, you'll want to run 33's or 35's, both of which will require a gearing change to get the ratios as close to stock as possible, and keep you from dumping fuel into it just to go down the block, as well as ease the wear and tear on the engine and trans...the goal in modding in my opinion, is to gain performance, while maintaining the rig to relatively stock numbers.
However, once you change one thing, you need to change 3 others to get that back as close as you can. It's give and take. Pros and cons to everything you do.
Here's the bottom line, my friend...you need to educate yourself on lifts. Of all kinds. I have quoted you several times below:
I get that you want to lift your rig now. With as little effort and cost as possible. But that's just not reality.
So...figure out what you want out of your ride. Research how to get it there. Research quality components. (Buy quality, cry once) Purchase parts. Install.
Or, buy the stuff you think you need, at rock bottom pricing, find out later you need more than just that, buy more stuff, find out the parts you got are giving out a year later, try to deal with warranty issues with whoever you bought the parts from, only to realize way too late, you should have done it the proper way from the get go. Your choice.
Not trying to discourage you. Just trying to help you avoid the mistakes we have all made in our times. Saving you money, time, and headaches.
#29
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