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Change my track bar and drag link geometry?

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Old Feb 22, 2020 | 11:23 AM
  #1  
fordp's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Year: 00, 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default Change my track bar and drag link geometry?

Wandering if I would get better steering/less bump steer by eliminating my 1.5" drop pitman and moving my track bar down the the lower bolt in this picture:

If ya'll think it's worth trying I'll first move the drag link about the pitman arm and lower the track bar first. I'm just grasping at straws here. Swapping all heims today. Should I kind of bind the heims on the draglink in one direction or another? I see most peoples heims on their draglink are not on the same plane, maybe that would eliminate some play?






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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 02:04 PM
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From: Fredericksburg, VA.
Year: 2001
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You want the drag link and pan hard bar as level and parallel as possible. Move what ever you need to move to achieve this goal.
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Hayes
You want the drag link and pan hard bar as level and parallel as possible. Move what ever you need to move to achieve this goal.
Ugh I just hate the steering right now and haven't chased down all the issues yet. Looks like moving it around would make me way less level and cause more issues.
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 04:16 PM
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4.3L XJ's Avatar
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
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Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
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They are close to parallel now. However, they are not the same length. To get rid of that bump steer, and or death wobble if you have it, you will need to lengthen the track bar. This is a common problem when you start going over the knuckle that no one except Rustys kits address that I have found. I had to move my track bar bracket outside of the frame to get the same distance and be parallel.



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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 04:32 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ
They are close to parallel now. However, they are not the same length. To get rid of that bump steer, and or death wobble if you have it, you will need to lengthen the track bar. This is a common problem when you start going over the knuckle that no one except Rustys kits address that I have found. I had to move my track bar bracket outside of the frame to get the same distance and be parallel.
Perfect!!! Hoping I can do that this week and that my rod ends will get me enough length (they are all the way in). Looks like you just cut a couple pieces of 3/16 and made your own bracket?
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 05:53 PM
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More than a couple, but yes I made my own. I have been using it for about ten years now and never a bump steer or death wobble. It is a good idea to use some bolts to tie it in if you can
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