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Capacitor needed with a sub?

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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:08 PM
  #1  
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
Default Capacitor needed with a sub?

I'm gonna finally put in my 12in sony sub this weekend, and I guy I know told me that I should get a capacitor to make sure my headlights don't dim. I know the electrical system on my renix probably isn't the greatest, so is there anything I should worry about when doing the installation? I already read up on charging and discharging the capacitor safely. I'm just not sure if I should even go through with it if my electrical system won't handle it. I'll be running the sub off of a 500w single channel alpine amp. The sub is rated at 300w and the peak power is 1100w. Is that too much power to run?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:13 PM
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Don't need a capacitor.
Make/Model of you amp?
If your headlights dim I'd start with upgrading the grounds. Battery to chassis, engine to chassis and there is one more IIRC.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 12:30 AM
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It's generally a good idea to use a capacitor, less strain on your alternator and amp. I'd say that's worth $25 :-)
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 06:36 AM
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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My headlights dim when the transmission downshifts, I think I should run a capacitor. haha. A new alternator is planned for the future, but I don't have that kind of money.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 06:37 AM
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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The amp is an alpine MRP-M500
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 07:05 AM
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capacitors are a waste. they are the equivalent to like 1/120 of a battery. buy a good battery..that would be a better move.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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There isnt any battery today that could deliver power the same way as a capacitor. Go for a capacitor as close to the amp as possible, i dont think it will fix your dim problem 100%, but you would hear big difference on the sound if its a good sound system.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 01:46 PM
  #8  
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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See, this is why I made up the thread. I keep getting mixed info on whether to get one or not. I'm getting one because I can get a good deal, but I wanted to see what people thought of it. I'm also iffy on the old electrical system. It could probably handle it, but I'm just wondering.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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I run a 1200w pioneer sub and 1200w dual amp (unfortunately from wally-world) in my 90' (renix also) with no capacitor and have no real problems even with the car off just sitting and listening to music before work for 30-45 min at a volume that makes me slightly deaf for a min or two after and there are no problems, i do sometimes notice at a stop light at night my headlights will dim slightly when the sub hits but nothing serious.
Also there are days where my sub SEEMS to hit harder or softer which I understand a capacitor could fix.
So, in conclusion, you CAN run a sub and amp without a capacitor, but if I had the money at the time to purchase one i would have just as a safety precaution. and maybe someday i will. Hope this helps you.
Either way rock on man, rock on.

Last edited by PNWjeeper; Oct 5, 2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 03:33 PM
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I ran a 1 farad cap in an old system with a optima red top and factory alternator with no dimming. I did have headlight dim pre-cap running 2 12's with a 500w amp.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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Ah yes and I have just a standard duty battery and alternator.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I run a 1200w pioneer sub and 1200w dual amp (unfortunately from wally-world) in my 90' (renix also) with no capacitor and have no real problems even with the car off just sitting and listening to music before work for 30-45 min at a volume that makes me slightly deaf for a min or two after and there are no problems, i do sometimes notice at a stop light at night my headlights will dim slightly when the sub hits but nothing serious.
Also there are days where my sub SEEMS to hit harder or softer which I understand a capacitor could fix.
So, in conclusion, you CAN run a sub and amp without a capacitor, but if I had the money at the time to purchase one i would have just as a safety precaution. and maybe someday i will. Hope this helps you.
Either way rock on man, rock on.
That's basically my setup, just mine has a little less wattage, haha. My battery is goin, so I gotta look into gettin a new one. The thing is like 10 years old. I have a better battery I can use though. I think I'm better off gettin the capacitor just for safety. Plus, I could always upgrade to another 12 with no problems. I'm just glad the ol' renix jeeps can take the power

I might have to put things on hold though, cuz I'm getting a case of the renix woes again. My electric fan won't kick on so it leaves me running hot whenever I stop.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by 01AX15
I ran a 1 farad cap in an old system with a optima red top and factory alternator with no dimming. I did have headlight dim pre-cap running 2 12's with a 500w amp.
Kinda why I want to get a cap. Just in case I do upgrade with another 12 eventually. Plus it just helps to have things regulated. The guy I got my sub off of said his headlights would dim every time it hit, so I don't want the same to happen to me.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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From: spring grove il
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this is one topic i know about capacitors are useless and dangerous. my dad owns a starter and alternator rebuild shop and iv done all of his high end stuff for the past 10 years. caps. can be explosive seen it a few times. your best bet is to do a duel battery setup safer and more practical for winches, lights ect. and the same price as a good cap.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 11:21 PM
  #15  
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From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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I can get a deal on a cap for about $50 only. A second battery will run me at least $80. I'm not looking to spend much on my setup as of now. Once I get roof lights and bumper lights, I'll upgrade the alternator and add a second battery. I heard that you just have to use a cap properly to avoid any danger.
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