Cant get t he ******ing spring on.
11-04-2012, 09:06 AM
#1
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Year: 1992
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Cant get t he ******ing spring on.
Hi, just got new leaf springs, they wont go on.. The are 100% identical to the ones I took off, but they are inches away from the front mount and yards away from my new shackles.... Now what do i do.
Oh and the brake line broke... I really feel like smashing the whole pos with a sledgehammer and then set it on fire. The front end was so much easier
Oh and the brake line broke... I really feel like smashing the whole pos with a sledgehammer and then set it on fire. The front end was so much easier
Last edited by Borgli; 11-04-2012 at 09:14 AM.
11-04-2012, 10:02 AM
#4
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Year: 1994
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Was it the brake line or the brake hose? Either way, when things break it's just a great opportunity to replace them with an upgraded part 
lines are a good bit pricier than the little hose though...
Your packs look identical, I think it's weird that you're having so much trouble lining them up. When I installed my AAL, step one was to get the first bolt started into the thread, on the forward, frame-side of the leaf pack. Don't worry about it lining up perfectly anywhere else. I did not install new shackles on mine but my advice would be to install the top bolt of the shackle to your frame first and leave it hanging like you pictured. Don't tighten anything, just get the threads started several turns. This is gonna sound crazy but to straighten mine out, I put a big 2x6 under it and cranked it down with C-clamps to flatten it out. This lengthens the straight-line distance bushing to bushing and made it easier to line up. I ended up laying on my back under the pack and hanging my weight from it to pull it down in line with the shackle. Then with both front and rear bolts started, I turned to lining up the axle perch. For this I used my jack under the axle to raise it and a rubber mallet to knock the axle into proper alignment under the pack. It may be a good idea to install the rear sway bar simply to line up the axle side to side, then once you have your packs properly seated on the perches and your U-bolts started, you can get rid of the sway bar. Once everything is bolted up, NOT tightened, lower the Jeep back onto the wheels or at least let the unibody come down and rest on the springs with the axle jacked up. It's easier this way because you'll still have easy access to your bolts without a wheel in the way. Tighten everything to spec with the Jeep sitting. It will ride better if you do this versus tightening the bolts without the weight of the Jeep on the packs.
I know this was wordy and hard to understand but if you need any clarification I can try to explain better. I also have a picture of my 2x6 + C-clamp trick if you need it for reference lol. Good luck man.
lines are a good bit pricier than the little hose though...Your packs look identical, I think it's weird that you're having so much trouble lining them up. When I installed my AAL, step one was to get the first bolt started into the thread, on the forward, frame-side of the leaf pack. Don't worry about it lining up perfectly anywhere else. I did not install new shackles on mine but my advice would be to install the top bolt of the shackle to your frame first and leave it hanging like you pictured. Don't tighten anything, just get the threads started several turns. This is gonna sound crazy but to straighten mine out, I put a big 2x6 under it and cranked it down with C-clamps to flatten it out. This lengthens the straight-line distance bushing to bushing and made it easier to line up. I ended up laying on my back under the pack and hanging my weight from it to pull it down in line with the shackle. Then with both front and rear bolts started, I turned to lining up the axle perch. For this I used my jack under the axle to raise it and a rubber mallet to knock the axle into proper alignment under the pack. It may be a good idea to install the rear sway bar simply to line up the axle side to side, then once you have your packs properly seated on the perches and your U-bolts started, you can get rid of the sway bar. Once everything is bolted up, NOT tightened, lower the Jeep back onto the wheels or at least let the unibody come down and rest on the springs with the axle jacked up. It's easier this way because you'll still have easy access to your bolts without a wheel in the way. Tighten everything to spec with the Jeep sitting. It will ride better if you do this versus tightening the bolts without the weight of the Jeep on the packs.
I know this was wordy and hard to understand but if you need any clarification I can try to explain better. I also have a picture of my 2x6 + C-clamp trick if you need it for reference lol. Good luck man.
11-04-2012, 10:17 AM
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I tried a couple of different approaches, first i got the front bushing lined up, then the second in the shackle. But then the litte pin that goes into the axle was 10 inches over to the rear. I tried lowering the axle but that didnt help. Theb ibstalling the ujoints first made it all weird, what the pictures show.
Maybe i should install the rear eye first and see what happens..
And the brakeline broke off when i tried to disconnect it from the frame.
Maybe i should install the rear eye first and see what happens..
And the brakeline broke off when i tried to disconnect it from the frame.
11-04-2012, 10:56 AM
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The big eye goes in the back right? Darn, now im am unsure, ill be really embarrased it thats the issue here...
Last edited by Borgli; 11-04-2012 at 02:41 PM.
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11-04-2012, 12:02 PM
#9
When I installed mine (3" full packs) I used a small pry bar to force the eye into place and I used a floor jack to line them up. I'm not sure if this helps.
My oem spring eyes were almost all siezed and I had to cut off the leaf spring (through every layer), cut through the rubber bushing, and then either vice grip the inside brass bushing, or pound/cut the brass bushings loose. One one side the nut came free of the frame rail and I had to cut a cheater hole in the rail to replace it.
That said. I feel your pain. Stick with it. End results are gratifying.
If you had them backwards, consider yourself both lucky and educated.
My oem spring eyes were almost all siezed and I had to cut off the leaf spring (through every layer), cut through the rubber bushing, and then either vice grip the inside brass bushing, or pound/cut the brass bushings loose. One one side the nut came free of the frame rail and I had to cut a cheater hole in the rail to replace it.
That said. I feel your pain. Stick with it. End results are gratifying.
If you had them backwards, consider yourself both lucky and educated.
11-04-2012, 12:39 PM
#10
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Must be out side spinning Xj around so springs will fit ...lol... just kidding hope being backwards is the issue easy to fix.
11-04-2012, 02:45 PM
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11-04-2012, 04:49 PM
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Year: 1991
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