VermontXJ802

Hey guys. I have been killing myself over what route to go with my xj. It's currently stock 4.0 auto, 1997 4wd. I'm first having it gone through to fix any needed repairs. I'm also getting parts together to lift it on bigger tires. I've got about 2grand and will...of course...always be upgrading. I really want to start with the rough country 4.5". But I'm also looking at the 3" to save a few bucks and maybe upgrade later. Problem is, ive got a great lead on some 33s and I love the looks of the 33s. I don't want to get into changing my gears right now as I wanna save some bucks. The jeep will be a daily drive/ hunting rig.
How much power/mpg do you lose with 33s? Can I run 32s and be better off? Or a 285/75/16? I can either go 3", later on add 4.5" leaf packs, spacers and ca's and all that, or do it all now...and add new gears later??

Ianf406

I would say start with the lift that you want to end up with. You don't want to spend more money down the road to get what you actually wanted when you can do it now. This is the cheapest 4.5" kit I know about that includes full leaf springs: http://www.trailmastersuspension.com...fMTM3745-40023
As for the tires, you can put the 33s on but it is going to be gutless. You will probably find yourself using a lot more of the skinny pedal to get around. You won't damage anything so you don't NEED the gearing right now (unless you blow your engine trying to take off fast lol). The larger tires are not going to directly effect your mpg as much as the amount of gas you will have to force down its throat to get it to move. The feeling of power loss will probably be significant. I have no idea towards mpg. As for the 32s/ 285/75/16 the improvement would be nominal at best over the 33s for ya.

Sorry I cant give you an exact (you will loose the feeling of 50hp and 5mpg etc) but it will be noticeable. That being said, people do that all the time until they can afford gears.

RubberSideUp

Shop around. Classifieds here on the forum. You can get a lot more bang for your buck than a kit.

Ianf406

You sure can! If your not careful though you can also inherent someone elses problems. Stuff can be bent, need new bushings, rusted out etc. Know what else sucks? Trying to get your money back after such a purchase. Plus the fact that you have no warranty. I just prefer to buy new for all the above reasons. Rubber side is correct though, you certainly can check out used stuff and save some cash you can later use elsewhere. You might get lucky and find a kit in good shape and still have enough to regear.

VermontXJ802

Thanks guys. I've found some good deals on used 33" tires, 32s are defiantly not as common. I think I'm definitely going with the. Ew 4.5" lift. I suppose I can run 31s or 32s until i can regear. I don't drive a ton of miles, so the gas won't kill me too much. And I drive like an old lady, so as long as it's not going to HURT anything...I'll be fine.

I also found a set of bushwacker flares on a wrecked jeep, the rear passenger side is only half there, any idea where to find the replacement piece? I offered the guy $100.

DieselDaze

well if you've never lifted or owned a lifted XJ I'd say you'd be better off with a middle of the road kit instead of breaking the bank with hopes and dreams of what you think you may or may not like...
I bought this kit http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...a94e1b79f5e885
I added an adjustable track bar and bilstien 5100s and came in around a grand, I'll run my stock wheels and kumho a/t's for now and will upgrade wheels and 31's later..

This is a capable set up while still maintaining somewhat stock performance and I can easily upgrade or change things as my taste allows...

I have yet to install everything but it looks good sitting out there

phxj

I'm in the same boat, I have 4.5 inch rc front coils sitting there cuz I found them in the jy for like 30 bucks but Idk if I shud go that much of lift

kgm

Going over ~3.5" starts to require alot more modifications / changes. Even at 3.5" anticipate needing to fix your rear driveline with a "new" / modified driveshaft.

2001Classic

comparison of pretty much all lifts out there.....whatever you decide you will most likely want to go with a full leaf pack in the rear as a "base" to build on so choose quality. Then you can add shackles and/or shackle relocation brackets to increase height in the rear and something like JKS ACOS in front to gain height of needed in future. I also suggest biting the bullet and going with long arms if you can, especially if you add height in the future.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...+kit+companies

VermontXJ802

Well I ordered the rough country 4.5" add a leafs...for now. And that will allow me to purchase 32s, since it's going to be an ongoing project, and my second vehicle, I think I will upgrade to 4.5" leafs in the future as I'm not doing any serious off road as of right now. I'm also budgeting in the necessary repairs it may need which are minimal, but I won't know until the mechanic gets it in the shop, and since their doing it at my dealership....who knows when that could be. Lol.

98cherokee531

This is a RC 3" add a leaf with a 1.5" block, 4.5" rubicon coils up front. 33x12.50s on stock wheels with 1.25 spacers, figured it would be a height reference

VermontXJ802

I'm so glad you posted this. I just bought a set of 15x8 canyon wheels and was wondering about the reliability of 1.5" wheel spacers. Do I need new lug nuts or anything for them? What's a good cheap brand?

VermontXJ802

How do I post pics on here?

VermontXJ802

Test

98cherokee531

Well so far mine are holding up well. I bought used spidertrax spacers because I sort of stumbled across them on craigslist. You will use the stock lugs to mount the wheel and use the manufactures supplied nuts so hold the spacer to the hub of the jeep. Only buy hub centric spacers so the weight of the vehicle is distributed evenly and not all on the lugs. Spidertrax are expensive but worth the money, keep in mind steel wheels are only a little more cash for 4 new ones. I know RC sells cheap ones but not sure how they hold up. Torque the spacer nuts onto the hub at 80-90ft lbs and recheck after about 50 miles. I think I got the basis covered