So I couldn't find the proper compression tester, just an old one that doesn't work very well, anyway I used that one but only tested three of the cylinders ( just because I knew the reading wouldn't be accurate) for the three that I tested I got 120 for each cylinder, but the actually compression should be higher. I also tested the injectors, I took them all out, and stuck empty water bottles on the ends and tried to start it, each injector sprayed in the correct pattern, and seemed to atomise the gas pretty well, they were also not leaking or dripping in any way.

So I guess I can rule out injectors for now, maybe the wiring going to the O2 sensor is faulty or something, I know that the cable to the starter had rotted out, that's why it took so long to start. I will have to do some more digging around.

One other thing, I only got about 180 - 190K before I had to get more gas

 

So to sum up the problems you're having now are poor fuel mileage and a misfire?

 

Yes, he is. Main problem was a motor swap and mismatch of parts. This makes it harder to track, diagnose the problems.

 

Back when I put the snorkel on, I only used 2" pipe because that was the diameter of a section of the hose that ran from the airbox to the throttle body, that and the size of the intake hole on the airbox was about 2"x1" in size, so I thought that 2" pipe would be fine, and it has worked up till now. Yesterday I did about 250K of highway driving in one day and for about 1/3 of the trip so much oil got sucked into the air intake through the PCV hose that it kept stalling, it was sucking air through the pcv valve because it could not suck air through the snorkel fast enough, this would also make it act like a vacuum leak and cause the A/C to stop working when accelerating. (the oil was not the reason it was stalling, it just filled the air cleaner with then got clogged with dirt so hardly any air was able to pass through it) anyway, I put a new air cleaner in and cut a larger hole in the side of the airbox (roughly 3"x2") and left the snorkel attached so it is getting air from two separate places in the airbox. I haven't been able to really test it much since then, but for the brief time I was, I noticed a huge difference in power, I also expect to see an increase in fuel economy as well.

I don't think it was the snorkel itself that caused these issues to arise, but it certainly didn't help, I will let you know if anything changes. but I want to remind you, I was having these issues before I did anything with the air intake system.

 

Now after this, make sure the hoses leading to MAP and fuel pressure regulator is clean and not plugged. Also check and clean your AIT sensor and spark plugs as well. We don't want these things getting fouled or plugged.

 

I will check all those things, as well as clean up the throttle body, the oil probably gummed some stuff up.

 

Ok, I just opened up the thottle body, there was a very small amount of crud in there, but barely any, I cleaned it up a and put it back together, I also took the IAT and IAC off and cleaned them up, but neither of them were covered in gunk, just a bit of oil, cleaned them up and put them back in, checked the map sensor vacuum line, it was fine, everything seems to be working properly, except the IAC, I unplugged it while it was running - no change in the way it was idling, plugged it back in - no change, so that right there tells me something is wrong, and it could explain why it idles strangely sometimes and other times at exactly 1k rpm.

 

Look at post 14 in my link if you haven't already.

 

i just skimmed/read most of this thread, i think it was mentioned but did you check the coolant temp sensor ???(the one the comp. uses not the gauge) if it thinks the engine is cold it will run rich and cause most of your problems, also unless the obd1 Chrysler stuff is different the o2 sensor is only used when its in closed loop ( when your just putting along at part throttle) so its unlikely that it would cause much of an issue at start up or idle. also i find it hart to believe that the snorkel would make the pcv suck oil...and the pcv can cause issues with drivability but i would almost worry that a the rings could not be sealing right and causing too much crank case pressure and that would blow oil out the pcv and onto the filter but if it went away with the snorkel then maybe I'm wrong

so I'm wondering

• what is your vacuum reading at idle (is it nice and steady)
• is the cts working as it should (you can find a chart telling you what resistance it should be at what temp if you cant i can post one if you want)
• what is your compression on all cylinders
• what did the plugs look like (think you said they looked clean but that doesn't really say much)

just to put it out there i don't have much real world experience but i am in collage for this and know what my teachers have told me...just hope maybe i can help

 

These have been suggested to check previously. Cruiser and myself have been trying to help remedy the situation. What makes it a difficult task without physically looking at it is the mismatch of parts. Stock around and read through, this may help you in your schooling.

 

sorry for intruding then, i didn't really see any results of the tests mentioned, hope you guys can help him get it fixed

 

It's not intruding. All thoughts and help are appreciated. Welcome to the forum btw.

 

The problem has escalated.

Today I went 4x4ing again, I had just fixed what I thought was the problem - a restriction in the air intake system (snorkel) and decided I would test it out off the road, well for the first hour or so it was great, tons of power, ran great and didn't over heat, but then it started stalling again. I got mad and just removed the PCV hose, thinking that would stop oil from entering the airbox, turns out, there was only a very small amount of oil that was actually going in there, so it was not the problem.
Basicaly what happens is this: runs great for an hour or so, then it starts to loose power, till it just feels like I am towing a fully loaded trailer behind me, but it still runs fine, then a few minutes later it starts dying, and backfiring like an machine gun, so I would shut it off, wait 10 seconds and start it back up and it runs fine again, then 10-30 minutes later (seems to just be a random thing, the shortest time being within 5 minutes) it starts backfireing and dying again, I know its not a fuel issue - its getting fuel, and air, its just not firing properly, like its not advancing the spark. I believe that this is actually an electrical issue, I don't think its something like a failing TPS or sensor, this is a random yet slightly predictable thing, I am begging to wonder if the computer has started to fail and has been causing strange issues to arise, could that be the case? what are the normal signs to look for when the computer starts to fail? I will be ripping things apart tomorrow trying to get to the bottom of this, its starting to get a little ridiculous. so all help is appreciated.

I forgot the mention, the distributor and cap are brand new, same with the plugs, and last week when I had them out, they had no carbon on them what so ever, so thats not the problem either. (the plug wires are fairly new as well)

- Its not fuel related
- Its not air related
- It is GETTING spark, its just not doing something right

 

Gotta verify fuel pressure....

 

I forgot to mention, sometimes when I start it up, certain things will not get power for a couple of minutes, this includes the radio and windshield wipers from what I have noticed so far, this has only happened a few times