CrawlerXJ

What are you running? I found this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-4-0-4-2...item3f127d2cf9


Power Range 800-4200

The specs are as follows


The intake lift at the valve is 427
The exhaust lift at the valve is 456
The intake duration is 248
The exhaust duration is 204

CrawlerXJ

Or is this better?

http://www.shop.505performance.com/p...&categoryId=30

Hydro cam DURATION AT 050 INTAKE 211 DURATION AT 050 EXHAUST 217 GROSS VALVE LIFT INTAKE .480 GROSS VALVE LIFT EXHAUST .480 SEPARATION 114 Good Power, Great for towing, 4WD and off-road. Smooth Idle Kit includes Push rods, springs, retainers, and timing set.

CrawlerXJ

#3rd option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280625211338...338%26_rdc%3D1

The power range is 1200 to 4800


Valves float at 5400


The specs at .050
intake opens at 5.0 ATDC and closes at 29.0 ABDC max lift is 107atdc duration 204
exhaust opens at 45.0 BBDC and closes at 9.0 BTDC max lift is 117btdc dutation 216

BRN2KL

Hey man is the exhaust duration on this correct? seems kinda short. Are you running a factory engine and head? automatic or manual? IM lazy i didnt click on the link...sorry

CrawlerXJ

Stock head
99+ intake
703 injectors
2.5 exhaust
Auto

BRN2KL

So I got impatient and clicked on the ebay links. I dont like the first one. I think the exhaust duration that is advertised is wrong. And if its not, you wont be letting enough air push out of the exhaust compared to the other cams you have listed.

I noticed in your SIG line that you are riding on 32's. Did you install deeper (higher #) gears? If so, what? Is this a DD or just off road rig? I know I am asking a ton of questions but all of this makes a difference. And BTW, you can keep the valves from floating at 5400 RPM if you want...

CrawlerXJ

Not interested in higher gears for more horse power (not really horse power, just gets you higher rpm sooner).

4:10

Offroad only

What about 2nd or 3rd cam? Looking for more power offroad, and maybe midrange for highway for trip to offroad trails. Thinking 2nd, but I am all ears.

BRN2KL

Dude the second one for sure. Make sure you get new lifters. They are fairly inexpensive and any descent automotive machine shop or engine builder would all but require them before they built an engine. If you are pulling the cam, now is a good time to for a valve job and mill the head. May be back cut the valves, install a slightly stronger (+20#-+30#) valve spring, that's the best way to keep from floating the valves. More spring pressure= higher RPM...usually. I'm excited for you. This is one of the few threads I actually get excited about. Some body making an engine mod that will ACTUALLY make more power. I love it

CrawlerXJ

Forgot to add. I am doing a valve job. Chevy valves. 1.95/1.5 valves.

Yup! Thats why I am doing it Thanks for help!

cmartin2112

X2 this is something that I want to follow. I thought about putting a new HP cam when I rebuilt my 4.0 but didnt get the answers I was looking for... I was also told that the stock cams that came in the 4.0 were about as good as it was going to get for a jeep.

Cant wait to see the results OP!

CrawlerXJ

Thanks for the support guys! Getting all my facts/ducks in a row.

CrawlerXJ

Lift – Intake
Lift - Exhaust
Gross Lift - Int/Ex

CobraMarty

Keep your stock cam and just add a set of yella terra 1.7 ratio roller rockers. They fit under the stock valve cover, able to use stock valve springs.

CrawlerXJ

I am all ears. Please explain? Diffference in roller rockers vs cam?

RR - $460

Crane Cam - $146
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-753901

CobraMarty

These rockers are much easier to install 1-2 hours, add lift to .430" and use stock valve springs. There has been much posted about cam problems and too heavy of valve springs wiping out cam lobes. You are still stuck with the poor flowing intake manifold and head to really appreciate much gain or rpm gain with a cam.