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buying d60s. any experience?

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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #1  
Nickell586's Avatar
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From: New Haven, IN
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L
Default buying d60s. any experience?

Picking up kingpin 60/d60. Sand blasted and painted 1000. I'm just trying to figure out what else I'll need to buy other the brackets/mounts. Axle swap is a little over my head but i want to do it right. I know this has been covered on other forums but everyone had opinions on what you "need". I plan on running rk 3 link and 37s if that helps. 5.5"lift. Not afraid to cut more. Thanks
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
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have they recently been gone through?
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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Yeah still apart actually. Just need rotors and pads
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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From: New Haven, IN
Year: 1998
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rims tires lockers gears alone.. im looking around 4000.. add another 1000 or so for links joints mounts etc.. im guessing ill be around 6000 into when all said and done.. anyone?
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
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Plan on drive shafts as well. I ran my stock one up front but you can use a 1310 D30 yoke on a D44 but not on a D60. Lengths will be different as well. I didn't upgrade my master but most do, my brakes actually work good and have plenty of pedal with the twin piston caliphers and I'm still running drums in the rear. What are the axles out of and what year, that will determine how much fun you're going to have putting mounts on the front. 80 and newer models have very little tube to work with on the driver side but you can grind off a good bit of the cast housing/leaf mount.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 01:56 AM
  #6  
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Should i upgrade shafts with 37s?
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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From: meriden Ct
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No, you don't need shafts with 37's I'm doing a 60/10.25 swap right now in my build thread.
Brackets from ballistic/ruffstuff including rear disk brackets. 350$
Gears and lockers from just differentials, 1709$
Rear e350 rotors and gm k10 calipers, 150$
Spicer 1310-1330 conversion joints.
Liquid iron frame stiffeners, track bar mount and steering dom, 250$
That's the big stuff. The only other thing that really adds up is if you need front wheel bearings, brakes, kingpins, hubs etc.
Otherwise its not too bad.
Mine will be pretty budgeted, but done right.
I'm hoping the front axle will be far enough forward that I don't have to shorten the shaft, but I will if I have to, my rear shaft should be ok, and the rear axle will be pushed back am inch or so.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 08:51 AM
  #8  
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Cool thanks for the info man. You building your own 3/4 link or what are you running
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Mine will be a 3 link radius for now. When I rebuild my x-member it will be a true 3 link. Right now Im using a normal radius arm setup with poly axle ends, ruffstuff heims on the x-member side, heims on the arm end of the upper links and stock axle end upper bushings. Ill replace the one upper end with a heim for the axle side, and keep the lower bushings poly.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
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Originally Posted by ct67_72
No, you don't need shafts with 37's I'm doing a 60/10.25 swap right now in my build thread.
Brackets from ballistic/ruffstuff including rear disk brackets. 350$
Gears and lockers from just differentials, 1709$
Rear e350 rotors and gm k10 calipers, 150$
Spicer 1310-1330 conversion joints.
Liquid iron frame stiffeners, track bar mount and steering dom, 250$
That's the big stuff. The only other thing that really adds up is if you need front wheel bearings, brakes, kingpins, hubs etc.
Otherwise its not too bad.
Mine will be pretty budgeted, but done right.
I'm hoping the front axle will be far enough forward that I don't have to shorten the shaft, but I will if I have to, my rear shaft should be ok, and the rear axle will be pushed back am inch or so.
Rear shaft will need to be shortened. I moved mine back a bit over 2" and still had to have almost 2" taken out of the shaft. I went from a 35 to a 60 and the 10.25 is bigger than my 60.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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From: Mass.
Year: 1999
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Check it out good sandblasting can ruin seals and bearings.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 05:30 PM
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by xjmarc
Rear shaft will need to be shortened. I moved mine back a bit over 2" and still had to have almost 2" taken out of the shaft. I went from a 35 to a 60 and the 10.25 is bigger than my 60.
hmmmmm. I know the 8.25 is longer than the 35. My rear shaft has a 7" slip, and I definitely have 3" to go in and Im moving the axle back. Ill have to measure some more, Im hoping to be able to leave it alone though.
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