Nickell586

Picking up kingpin 60/d60. Sand blasted and painted 1000. I'm just trying to figure out what else I'll need to buy other the brackets/mounts. Axle swap is a little over my head but i want to do it right. I know this has been covered on other forums but everyone had opinions on what you "need". I plan on running rk 3 link and 37s if that helps. 5.5"lift. Not afraid to cut more. Thanks

N20jeep

have they recently been gone through?

Nickell586

Yeah still apart actually. Just need rotors and pads

Nickell586

rims tires lockers gears alone.. im looking around 4000.. add another 1000 or so for links joints mounts etc.. im guessing ill be around 6000 into when all said and done.. anyone?

xjmarc

Plan on drive shafts as well. I ran my stock one up front but you can use a 1310 D30 yoke on a D44 but not on a D60. Lengths will be different as well. I didn't upgrade my master but most do, my brakes actually work good and have plenty of pedal with the twin piston caliphers and I'm still running drums in the rear. What are the axles out of and what year, that will determine how much fun you're going to have putting mounts on the front. 80 and newer models have very little tube to work with on the driver side but you can grind off a good bit of the cast housing/leaf mount.

Nickell586

Should i upgrade shafts with 37s?

ct67_72

No, you don't need shafts with 37's I'm doing a 60/10.25 swap right now in my build thread.
Brackets from ballistic/ruffstuff including rear disk brackets. 350$
Gears and lockers from just differentials, 1709$
Rear e350 rotors and gm k10 calipers, 150$
Spicer 1310-1330 conversion joints.
Liquid iron frame stiffeners, track bar mount and steering dom, 250$
That's the big stuff. The only other thing that really adds up is if you need front wheel bearings, brakes, kingpins, hubs etc.
Otherwise its not too bad.
Mine will be pretty budgeted, but done right.
I'm hoping the front axle will be far enough forward that I don't have to shorten the shaft, but I will if I have to, my rear shaft should be ok, and the rear axle will be pushed back am inch or so.

Nickell586

Cool thanks for the info man. You building your own 3/4 link or what are you running

ct67_72

Mine will be a 3 link radius for now. When I rebuild my x-member it will be a true 3 link. Right now Im using a normal radius arm setup with poly axle ends, ruffstuff heims on the x-member side, heims on the arm end of the upper links and stock axle end upper bushings. Ill replace the one upper end with a heim for the axle side, and keep the lower bushings poly.

xjmarc

Rear shaft will need to be shortened. I moved mine back a bit over 2" and still had to have almost 2" taken out of the shaft. I went from a 35 to a 60 and the 10.25 is bigger than my 60.

leecarr

Check it out good sandblasting can ruin seals and bearings.

ct67_72

hmmmmm. I know the 8.25 is longer than the 35. My rear shaft has a 7" slip, and I definitely have 3" to go in and Im moving the axle back. Ill have to measure some more, Im hoping to be able to leave it alone though.