Budget 3-3.5" Lift the right way?
12-13-2011, 09:26 PM
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Budget 3-3.5" Lift the right way?
Looking to put together a 3-3.5" lift over this winter break, but at the same time don't want something that's ghetto rigged or rides like crap.
Any advice?
Any advice?
12-14-2011, 02:11 AM
#3
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Buy a set of adjustable control arms and front coils. Should run about $200-250 for those two and then build a bastard pack rear with another set of leafs. You could move the tracbar over or run an adjustable one of those aswell.
I run a pack of Ford heavy 3/4 ton and XJ leafs and it rides smooth as glass. Most kits run a bit more than and use an AAL which normally rides ****ty.
I run a pack of Ford heavy 3/4 ton and XJ leafs and it rides smooth as glass. Most kits run a bit more than and use an AAL which normally rides ****ty.
12-14-2011, 07:54 AM
#4
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
My original 3.5" lift was rusty's 3" coils, JK shocks and s10 bastard pack in the rear. It costed my about $200 and did well, the shocks were alittle too short but were free and rode great.
I run just s10 packs in the rear with a shackle and shackle relocation boxes to get ~4.75" and I love the way it rides. If i were to build another lift, I would skip the bastard pack and just run the s10 leafs. It did move my axle back 1"
I run just s10 packs in the rear with a shackle and shackle relocation boxes to get ~4.75" and I love the way it rides. If i were to build another lift, I would skip the bastard pack and just run the s10 leafs. It did move my axle back 1"
12-14-2011, 11:43 AM
#7
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You can do the TC drop as a temp fix until you can install a SYE, but I suggest you do the SYE.
Keep in mind when you drop the TC, you're also changing the angle the motor and tranny sits. While this isn't that big of a deal in an automatic, I found that when I dropped the TC in my manual shift TJ, the flywheel/PP made chattering because the engine was sitting at a different angle all the time. Once I installed a SYE, the noise went away. I'll always support a SYE + proper rear drive shaft over a TC drop for long term use.
To get back on topic:
I picked up some Rugged Ridge HD OEM springs and it gave me 1" over stock lift in the rear. So that changed my plans to leave it stock. I'm not a fan of the hotrod rake(ie nose down) look. So my plan has changed to net myself around 3" of lift and run 31s.
My parts list is:
HD rear springs (1" of lift)
2" rear shackles (1.5-2" lift)
3" front coils (2.5-3" lift)
Rocker protection/sliders
HD front bumper with winch
HD rear bumper with swing away tire carrier and jerry can holder.
I've read that you shouldn't need a SYE or TC drop until you approach 4" of lift but I'm sure each rig is different, so I would go ahead and lift it the 3-3.5 you want, and if you notice vibes, put in a TC drop until you can get a SYE installed.
Keep in mind when you drop the TC, you're also changing the angle the motor and tranny sits. While this isn't that big of a deal in an automatic, I found that when I dropped the TC in my manual shift TJ, the flywheel/PP made chattering because the engine was sitting at a different angle all the time. Once I installed a SYE, the noise went away. I'll always support a SYE + proper rear drive shaft over a TC drop for long term use.
To get back on topic:
I picked up some Rugged Ridge HD OEM springs and it gave me 1" over stock lift in the rear. So that changed my plans to leave it stock. I'm not a fan of the hotrod rake(ie nose down) look. So my plan has changed to net myself around 3" of lift and run 31s.
My parts list is:
HD rear springs (1" of lift)
2" rear shackles (1.5-2" lift)
3" front coils (2.5-3" lift)
Rocker protection/sliders
HD front bumper with winch
HD rear bumper with swing away tire carrier and jerry can holder.
I've read that you shouldn't need a SYE or TC drop until you approach 4" of lift but I'm sure each rig is different, so I would go ahead and lift it the 3-3.5 you want, and if you notice vibes, put in a TC drop until you can get a SYE installed.
Last edited by mithuth; 12-14-2011 at 11:51 AM.
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12-14-2011, 11:52 AM
#8
You can do the TC drop as a temp fix until you can install a SYE, but I suggest you do the SYE.
Keep in mind when you drop the TC, you're also changing the angle the motor and tranny sits. While this isn't that big of a deal in an automatic, I found that when I dropped the TC in my manual shift TJ, the flywheel/PP made chattering because the engine was sitting at a different angle all the time. Once I installed a SYE, the noise went away. I'll always support a SYE + proper rear drive shaft over a TC drop for long term use.
To get back on topic:
I picked up some Rugged Ridge HD OEM springs and it gave me 1" over stock lift in the rear. So that changed my plans to leave it stock. I'm not a fan of the hotrod rake(ie nose down) look. So my plan has changed to net myself around 3" of lift and run 31s.
My parts list is:
HD rear springs (1" of lift)
2" rear shackles (1.5-2" lift)
3" front coils (2.5-3" lift)
HD front bumper with winch
HD rear bumper with swing away tire carrier and jerry can holder.
I've read that you shouldn't need a SYE or TC drop until you approach 4" of lift but I'm sure each rig is different, so I would go ahead and lift it the 3-3.5 you want, and if you notice vibes, put in a TC drop until you can get a SYE installed.
Keep in mind when you drop the TC, you're also changing the angle the motor and tranny sits. While this isn't that big of a deal in an automatic, I found that when I dropped the TC in my manual shift TJ, the flywheel/PP made chattering because the engine was sitting at a different angle all the time. Once I installed a SYE, the noise went away. I'll always support a SYE + proper rear drive shaft over a TC drop for long term use.
To get back on topic:
I picked up some Rugged Ridge HD OEM springs and it gave me 1" over stock lift in the rear. So that changed my plans to leave it stock. I'm not a fan of the hotrod rake(ie nose down) look. So my plan has changed to net myself around 3" of lift and run 31s.
My parts list is:
HD rear springs (1" of lift)
2" rear shackles (1.5-2" lift)
3" front coils (2.5-3" lift)
HD front bumper with winch
HD rear bumper with swing away tire carrier and jerry can holder.
I've read that you shouldn't need a SYE or TC drop until you approach 4" of lift but I'm sure each rig is different, so I would go ahead and lift it the 3-3.5 you want, and if you notice vibes, put in a TC drop until you can get a SYE installed.
Kind of what I figured.There's never a cheap way out when modding things is there....lol
12-14-2011, 05:28 PM
#10
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have the RC Series II with the AAL and think its great... doesn't ride like a caddy but handles well and doesn't beat the crap out of you. Great option for the money.
12-14-2011, 09:49 PM
#12
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the RC Series II 3 in. too. The shocks that come with the kit are harsh, real stiff. Other than that, I'm satisfied. Great kit for the money.
12-14-2011, 10:11 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by BlackXJLimited
I have the RC Series II 3 in. too. The shocks that come with the kit are harsh, real stiff. Other than that, I'm satisfied. Great kit for the money.
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