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Brown Dog engine brackets.

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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 06:35 AM
  #16  
SteveMongr's Avatar
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jay_sco
I appreciate the input, but I think we're getting off track here. I already have my mind made up on the BD rubber mounts, but I would like to hear why Fred suggests OEM.
The point of this thread was concerning the plates that BD makes that bolt to the engine itself.
I considered the BD mounts and engine brackets also. I eventually came to the conclusion that the brackets are not necessary for my rig, even though I drive it hard and bottom out the suspension on a regular basis.
I also decided to stay with OEM mounts, even though the Anchor mounts only lasted ten months.
One of the considerations is that my rig is not a rock crawler, I'm not bouncing over rocks and boulders while at odd angles or inclines + descents.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 06:46 AM
  #17  
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by jay_sco
I appreciate the input, but I think we're getting off track here. I already have my mind made up on the BD rubber mounts, but I would like to hear why Fred suggests OEM.
The point of this thread was concerning the plates that BD makes that bolt to the engine itself.
If you read enough here you will come across the occasional post of someone who has snapped the heads of the bolts off the brackets at the engine block.

Everyone is concerned about axle shafts and other components when it comes to torque but rarely do they concern themselves with engine torque. Every bit of torque that is applied to the ground is applied to the engine mounts as your engine is actually wanting to twist itself right out of your Jeep.

For normal driving and normal 4x use, OEM brackets are more than substantial.


As others have stated, OEM mounts and make certain your bracket bolts are tight.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 07:18 AM
  #18  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jay_sco
I appreciate the input, but I think we're getting off track here. I already have my mind made up on the BD rubber mounts, but I would like to hear why Fred suggests OEM.
The point of this thread was concerning the plates that BD makes that bolt to the engine itself.
Fred's an old fart. That's why.

LOL.

Heed the advice on bolts and washers. Here's why:

From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com



This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 09:44 AM
  #19  
Fred/N0AZZ's Avatar
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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He's right I'm an Old Fart for sure but yes I installed the Brown Dog mounts not the solid ones and they are an excellent product no doubt about that. But after a few weeks of the mirrors vibrating all the time and a few other small irritations to me, I finally removed them and installed the OEM mounts (Steve has the link to the one both of us used) and followed the directions to correct ant problems with the new bolts using washers.


I tend to be easy on the skinny peddle also and not afraid to use the winch instead of beating it to an early death either. That makes a difference also your driving style. I go where I need to go and 99% of the time keep up with the crowd when we are with one, so don't think I drive like an old lady either. 90% of the time my wife and I wheel alone like we have for the last 37 yrs. always had a 4x4 of some kind and liked to explore on our own where we want.
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