Keaton

Ok so I know its common and I've read alot of fix methods. But my situation is a little different than the basic broken bolt problem.

Not only are all 4 bolts broken inside the holes, but the bar pins in the shocks were, at one time, welded directly to the body. This was how I bought it. My right rear shock is hanging loose now and I crawled underneath to look and saw the mess.

I'm not to sure how to fix it. I need new shocks anyways since I put my 3" lift on but my bigger concern is the mounting area. How should I fix this? Cut a hole in the floor method, try to drill the old bolts out and then put new bolts with bpe's in? Or weld in bpe's? Or any other suggestions you might have... Thanks guys.

crimsondragon

This is how I fixed mine. I used an air hammer at work, and hammered away the weld nuts. Then I slipped some bolts through the side. Then used a wrench to hold the bolts while I tightened the nuts. Took me 45 minutes to do. A good portion of it was hammering it cause I kept running out of air (2 gallon tank mind you), the other portion was spent fishing the bolts through the holes. Works pretty good once it's in place. I plan on doing the other side some time soon.

As for the welded bar pin, grind any welds down flat and reuse them.

yarom

If you go to this URL, you will see the parts I just purchased to remedy thie same problem...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190579652607...84.m1497.l2649

It's made by Karnage and here is some of their description:
The new mounts bolt directly to the subframe with 7/16" bolts using nearby existing factory holes. (NOT THE ORIGINAL SHOCK BOLT HOLES!) The base plate completely covers the original mounting location, including the original shock mount holes, adding tons of extra strength. You simply bolt these on, and then re-mount your shocks to them with the included hardware. No cutting or drilling required! The ugly mounting area and/or broken bolts are completely hidden once this kit is installed. These 3/16" plate steel brackets are CNC cut for perfect fitment. When using this product, the upper shock mounting location is only lowered 1 inch.

Keaton

Looks like a good system. I cant really find anything online about the company though. No reviews of the mounts or anything. Have you installed these yet?

Tharry91

I have the Karnage Relocation brackets, they are pretty good. The only downside that I've seen so far was that I had to cut off about a foot or so of my tailpipe to be able to mount the passenger side one.

yarom

That is a fact they failed to advertise.

If this is indeed the case and they do interfere with the tailpipe routing, I will return the kit to them. They absolutely describe it as bolt-on with zero pain, including pictures...

Lift goes on next week, we will see what happens then...

Keaton

You should get in contact with him and figure it out for sure. I'd like to know before I buy.

budg74

I had the same issue. I cut acces panels through my floor and drilled the old bolts out and installed new Grade 8 Bolts. And a local shop Helldorado Customs me some custom Brackets.

helmut

I cut the floor the same way but not on all 4 sides. So its like a flap that I could open and close so no need to rivet the metal plate to cover the hole.

budg74

I actually used screws and caulking to make it water tight.

Tony_SS

I used the rear sway bar bracket and cut access holes on the top too. 3 sides so I could use it as a flap. I used HVAC tape to seal the edges and dynamat over that to seal it up.

PurpleToxin505

Okay, so you get a hammer and punch, just keep smacking the weld nuts till they pop off, go get 8 7/16 grade 8 bolts fully threaded, 16 7/17 grade 8 washers, 8 7/16 grade 8 nuts. Then order these http://www.detoursusa.com/xjstm.php. Fish the bolts though the orginal holes, tighten them down, I used some vice grips at the bottom of the bolt, mount your shock just like stock except youll never have to deal with that issue again, plus it gives you more shock travel

heydockyle

I welded a set of BPE's to the frame.