Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Brake booster upgrade

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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 01:54 PM
  #16  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by torque062
So cruiser would you do the WJ booster again? I'm getting sick of stock brakes and 35s. I'd do rear disc but I don't want to buy e brake cables right now and since its a 5 speed I use it all the time. Also, what years did that master cylinder from the Durango works best
Do the booster first. Hands down.

I've done rear discs on my XJ. brake booster on my MJ, and then added a booster to the XJ. Booster is the best bang for the buck hands down.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 04:50 PM
  #17  
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Do I just need a WJ booster and master cylinder? any other parts needed for this? I've looked in junk yards for parts, but have been unable to find them (they've all been yanked already! or in terrible condition).

Thanks.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:41 PM
  #18  
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From: SE MA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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This is a replacement from a '99-04 Grand Cherokee for my '87. The shape is slightly different from the '95-96 Cherokee versions, but the same idea. The bore size for the above is 1-inch. Our stock MC bore diameters are 15/16-inch, which is where the increased pressure (if the rear brakes remain shoes with wheel cylinders) comes into play.

This is also a dual-diaphragm booster. Ours is a single. So, less pedal pressure is required to get the same hydraulic pressure in the line.

Due to the shape, my cowl lip had to be raised, in part, to accommodate the clutch master-to-slave cylinder line. The other factor that allowed the line to fit above and behind the booster is that I spaced the booster away from the firewall about 5/16-inch to match the brake pedal's resting position to that of the stock MC.

I have a few more pictures, or I can take some more, if you wish. You can see how I routed the two hard lines between the MC and the proportioning valve. I debated whether or not to flare the ends myself, or not. In the interest of saving time and getting it done, I used standard, pre-flared lines, and flare adapters to mate them to the new MC.




Last edited by ajpulley; Jan 7, 2017 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:48 PM
  #19  
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From: SE MA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Here are a few of the PV.





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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 07:26 PM
  #20  
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Year: 1989
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awesome! Thanks for the follow up, I guess I just need to find the booster and master cylinder now. It will probably be a few weeks before I get to this project as my jeep is very much a project car, and not my main driver. It also need a lot of other work, so trying to prioritize my money and time as well.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 07:40 PM
  #21  
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From: SE MA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by aroundincircles
It will probably be a few weeks before I get to this project as my jeep is very much a project car, and not my main driver. It also need a lot of other work, so trying to prioritize my money and time as well.
That's why mine has been sitting for a few years!
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 09:26 AM
  #22  
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From: Pasquotank, NC
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I did the WJ booster/master swap on my 90. Night and day difference. Worth every penny. I attempted the junkyard route. Could not find a booster that was any good. I bought a new booster and grabbed a master cylinder with lines from the JY. I was able to make the WJ lines work on the XJ by reflaring the lines at the prop valve.

My setup is a bit more than just the booster/master swap. I put a 8.8 from an Explorer with disc brakes in the rear. Pulled the guts out of a ZJ prop valve and installed in my prop valve to give the correct bias front to back with discs at all 4 corners. I can lock up 33x12.5s at about any speed (predictably). Very happy with the setup.
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