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oh shiz. ya? So I need to take that main lower bar, and flip it around? Oops. and that's my issue or rubbing? I'll order another ES3096L , because I jacked that one up, but then put that on the "tire side". I guess that's why the other end is non zerk......
okok. Think I got it...
Now, it only binds going full right lock, it bumps under the sway bar bracket. I could shave it... or... remove it... but, does this look right now?
(red arrow shows where it binds and bumps under that bracket)
I cringe looking at that drag link angle.
everything seems a waist to put any time money or effort into that steering set up at that lift height. But that's just me
Looks good from here. It doesn't appear any joints are stressed at ride height. As for the interference I can't really say except to do what you gotta do for clearance. For on road I would want the sway bar on and not hitting however that works out.
Looks like I have 3 options:
- shim my lower control arms more, to get the axel to rotate just a bit more and clear.
- grind about 1/4in off that swaybar bracket
- just chop off the swaybar brackets.
I've tested it a few times with disconnecting the sway bar. and I don't feel much of a difference eh. Think I'll just try and grind off a bit and see how I like no sway bar first.
Mine at 2" with no swaybars was a chore to keep track off at freeway speeds quite alot of lean when tires grabbed rd imperfections.
The steers pictured is in my opinion fine for the street, but off rd on extension were the suspension drops out 4" I dunno. I had little steering with stock set up and in articulated situations.
I'm set up over the knuckles and cringe at mine to. In a perfect world drag and track bar would be nearly flat at ride height but is hard to attain on a lifted jeep.
I'm currently gathering stuff to do wj knuckles and redo my steering and track bar. This is mainly due to having bad day and tearing a knuckle in two this was a combination of a bunch of broken stuff that left we coming down a hill and having a axle bearing knuckle have carmtastrphic luckily i got stopped in time brake line wasn't ripped off the frame
I ran stock steering for a long time and it did work well enough. Looking at your angles I'd of guessed more than 3" of lift but drag and track bar angles really stik out to me. I see xj's on 6" and wonder how the things even drivable.
GF,
Looks like you've pretty much reached the limits for oem steering at that lift height. As far as what to do seems most just trim the bracket. Next would be control arms.
As far as the sway bar mine is ALWAYS connected when I'm towing especially a heavy load (no rear one). Otherwise it's disconnected. Doing so gives a much less "choppy" ride on our roads. Guessing shocks play a big part in being able to do so. I ran KYB Monomax until I lifted and now run red JK's. Both are probably overkill for a lightweight XJ.
Right on. Yeah, last night I just chopped it all off. Less weight!
It's a backup daily and camp'n rig. From since I got it, I have this popping happening going full right lock on the drivers hub area. Still there, so I just have to see if it's the ball joints or ujoint or bearing.
As far as suspension goes, think I'll do rear leaves and shocks next or whenever, it's not too big of deal. (If I can stop buying PSA/BCA/PA toys .)
She rides way better so far. Just more clicks/pops/clunks than my 79. I guess eventually I'll take care of most of those things while replacing/upgrading things.
Looks like I have 3 options:
- shim my lower control arms more, to get the axel to rotate just a bit more and clear.
- grind about 1/4in off that swaybar bracket
- just chop off the swaybar brackets.
I've tested it a few times with disconnecting the sway bar. and I don't feel much of a difference eh. Think I'll just try and grind off a bit and see how I like no sway bar first.
I used some heat and moved my brackets up and out of the way. A few companies sell extended brackets if you can weld. So even after cutting them off, if you decide you need a sway bar there’s a fix.
