GFBurke

Hello.
Ended up getting a 98 xj. The 79 F150 daily straight 6 cab is getting too small to carry all the kids, etc out camping/shooting. Anyways.
Under the hood, went through and did all the tune-up stuff, removed the throttlebody and cleaned, replaced oil filter adapter O ring, replaced starter because it was caked in oil, etc etc. Runs great with 140K miles now. No rust, great interior and low miles for the year is why I scored it.

However, my 79 f150 rides WAY smoother on the road with stock leaves, skyjacker front leveling springs, 33in bfgs, Rancho front adjustable shocks, Explorer Pro Comp rear shocks and urethane bushings anywhere I could. This jeep shocks are total bs. "zone"? I guess... idk. Corners fine, but hitting a small pothole feels like your axel hit the road and clucks in the rear on bumps. I don't know jeep stuff well enough to say that it's just shocks. I don't know what is stock and what isn't looking under her skirt. The issues is, someone did a 'lift' and upgrades - but something needs to change.

I want this thing to at least be as good on the road as well as off-road in the Owyhees as my 79. We don't rock crawl, just desert climb, random small mud bits, normal rocks, etc. It's south Idaho. If by doing something it goes up another 1in on the lift, I'm ok with that.
Will end up with the same 33in bfgs on this as my truck has. (once I take care of the sye/c8.25 rear swap).

Here is what I know and pics.
98 xj 4x4
dana30 hp front (456 gears and lunchbox)
dana35 rear ((yaya ikr)) (456 gears and lsd)
"3in lift"
32in tires
zone shocks
dropped the tc with washers (works for now until I bother with sye)
no death wobble


After research, I'm looking at the BPE kit and Bilstein 5100 shocks. I'm too confused about leaf packs and front springs on what I should get, or are these even an issue?
I think I hear the ZJ front steering components are much beefier and thicker. Sounds good for the money?

Sorry for the long post, any advice from someone who is smarter on the xj is appreciated.

tech

How much lift does it have , the rear has a helper spring those always ride hard and in front I see spring spacer that looks like a 2" spacer . and yes you can use a better shock .

TrailerTrash

As said above there is a spacer in the front and add-a-leaf in the rear. Also extended shackles in the rear. None of those help ride quality. I am assuming its roughly a 3.4 to 4 inch lift.

Assuming those shocks arent blown or wore out, they are decent quality. I've been using Zone for a few years.

The leaf packs are the same for the 8.25 and Dana axles. But the U bolts are not. So when you swap the axle you will have to get a new set of U bolts.

I suggest buying a complete lift kit with everything you need in the height you want. Ditch the lift shackles for a set of stock length replacements.

Tsaani97xj

I went down this road. Ride quality is greatly affected by control arm angle and shackle angle. While shocks and spring rate makes a difference, getting the angles right is so huge in how well it rides and handles.

Control arm drops and shackle relocation made it ride better than stock and eliminated all jarring like you described. You can put better springs and/or shocks and you will get some change but I would bet overall you will be disappointed.

ZJ tie rod and associated hardware is a nice cheap upgrade.

GFBurke

Thanks guys.
So here is what I'm planning on starting with.
- Skyjacker JC30F Black Front 3" Lift Softride Coil Springs (ditch the spacer)
- Bilstein 5100 Monotubes all around - with bpe's
- Then ZJ v8 steering with Rancho RS5000 RS5401 Steering Damper.

Then:
Those upper front control arms are stock and need to go. So an idea there would be good.
I'm not sure on control arm angles - is that a kit?
Then this rear leaf situation. "long?". any link or part number would be good.


Undercoat. Because these photos are embarrassing. ha

llamley

Driving a 98 Jeep Cherokee XJ. I had 4.5 inch lift on Rough Country RC lower & upper control arms, RC track bar, Stock steering linkages, Rusty's 4.5 inch leaf springs. I was still using my old coils and added a 1.75 inch coil spacers to level out.. Ran this with Bilstein 5150's. It rode good for 6 years. Then rear leaf's started getting way too soft.

Replaced all above parts with Rubicon Express RE and new Bilstein 5150's this year. Also did the ZJ steering linkage upgrade. Jeep rides way better now with just the right amount of cushion on bumps. It allows me to drive faster than before through dips and bumps with out fear of bottoming out or losing control in turns. I really like the RE 4.5 leaf spring packs, they support a load better than the Rusty's and still give a stable and comfortable drive. My son has a 96 XJ and went with Old Man Emu leaf packs which look event better quality then the RE's but cost a lot more.

Rubicon Express is not the cheapest nor the most expensive but so far it has given me excellent driving experiences when combined with the Bilstein's. I highly recommend RE

Additional clarification. The upper and lower control arms are adjustable so gave me the perfect angles up front. I replaced 1.75 inch coil spacers and went with the full 4.5" RE coils. The 4.5 RE leaf packs are on stock length shackles so the angles work well in the rear suspension.

Avoid the coil spacers and the long shackles as they are just compensating for deficiency's.

GFBurke

Ah I see. Adjustable control arms is what gives you the pinion adjustment to get it right.
I'll get front upper and lower adjustable as well as rear.

JonRedcorn

The rear doesn't have any control arms. You really just need front upper adjustables to set your pinion angle. I have the same lower front control arms on my jeep and upper adjustables. It's funny my jeep basically had the same setup as yours does when I bought it.









I'd get all new steering, tie rod ends, drag link, drop pitman, upgraded tie rod, then definitely get an adjustable track bar made for your height. I went with the RC adjustable for 4-6 in lift. I am not sure whats wrong with lift shackles, if the angles are right they actually give you a better ride. Mine aren't perfect they are slightly leaned back when on the ground, which actually is kind of how you want them. Coil spacers are crappy though but can be useful if trying to get real high.

EvanM

I think if that were my jeep I'd do control arm drop brackets as the very first suspension tunning. Everything else can wait and should until the control arm angles are corrected.

Then look at rear shackle angle.

With geometry out of wack Everything else will be like chasing your tail.

GFBurke

Ok, I see. Makes sense. So go with something like this. But also get upper adjustables. The lowers I have are probably fine?
Or would I even still need to get an adjustable upper?

Tsaani97xj

I bought CADs from:

https://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee-...-arm-drop.html

Their brace goes back and under the crossmember.

Just another option not as well known as RC but probably better IMO.

GFBurke

Right on. I thought that's why the guy used those lower control arms he did on mine, to get 'the angle right', because they are bent and not straight.
But I still should get a cad, yes? Not just upper adjustables. Or just upper adjustables in place of a cad? Just trying to go with cheap for now, don't want to ladies ***** to be jarred too hard.

Tsaani97xj

I used stock replacement control arms with the RRO CADs. At 5.5" they were perfect. Handling, steering etc returned to a stock like feel. Adjustable are great and you can dial castor and pinion angle easily. Lowers for centering the axle in wheel well.

The reason your lower control arms have that bend is to allow the arm to not bottom out on it's front mount. They do not change the angle as that is measured mounting point to mounting point. If you look at that angle it points to the ground meaning the force from bumps is sent into the frame and you. Dropping the rear mount brings it back close to stock geometry.

I am positive you will be a believer after adding CADs. I drove for about a year without them and stiff springs and I knew that couldn't just be how a lifted Jeep should drive. You hear people say it isn't a Caddie but mine sure rode very much like one after doing the lift right.

GFBurke

Nice. Appreciate it.
Ok, starting off in ordering.
-CAD
-Stock upper control arms
-Upper control arm axle bushing. ( that looks fun to install)

I'll get this done first. Then I'll have questions on the rear shackle bits once this part is done.
Thanks.

TRCM

If you do CAD brackets you'll need stock or straight lower control arms as well.....CADs drop the rear mounting point 4"....so your bend would then be wrong.