884x4

On my 88 d30 I had a negative camber, about 1.3 degrees on each side.
So I checked my ball joints, unit hubs, basically everything on the front end.
Figured it was bent axle C's. So I bought a 99 hp with 4.88 gears and a lockright.
Brought it home and got to work. I re built the lockright and started sanding and prepping it for paint and the swap.
Re geared my ford 8.8 to match and threw it under the rig.
Since then I've replaced the ball joints with dana spicer new ball joints and the uca bushings with energy suspension bushings. I also bought extra 297 shafts and put 760x ujoints in it with full circle clips.mits got new unit hubs as we'll and still tight. So I got alota time and effort into this axle.
Always noticed a slight negative camber since my first wheeling trip on it but prayed and hoped I was imaging it and the ball joints would correct it.
Yesterday I drove 150 mile round trip to go dove hunting and the negative camber is much more noticeable now.
It's even starting to wear the inside of my brand new 35" km2s.
So, I'm not driving it until I figure this out, I think the C's are bent again because EVERYTHING is new and still tight.
I'm thinking I sell the d30 as is to fund a waggy 44 build and forget about d30s.
Another option is to find a d30 housing and build it with my parts and brace the hell out of the C's.
Or jump straight to a d60...
What do y'all think?
Just sucks cause I got ruff stuff 1 ton steering coming for this axle
Guess since it's build it yourself I could put it on anything and just change the tre that has the hole for the drag link...

mr white

Check the caster angle and then realign.

884x4

The more caster the more the toe in would affect the camber, I know that but mine is around 7° and even with no toe in there is still about a degree of negative camber on both sides

884x4

So it would cost me about 1200-1500$ to build a waggy 44 the way I want and get new wheels and the bolt pattern to match in the rear. I don't want to spend That right now( need long arms and Detroit for the rear )
So I wanna heat up the C and wack it back to 0° camber.
Then brace the absolute hell out of it.
Anyone think this is doable?

mr white

I have a hard time believing your cs are bent. Did You jump it or some ****?

884x4

No jumping at all, something is bent though. I can put a magnetic angle finder on the hub and one side is -1.8 ° and one is 1.2°.
Ball joints literally brand new.
Gonna mess with it tomorrow morning to see if I can find anything else but it's all brand new under there.
Only thing could be bent c or bent tube

mr white

Is the one that's 1.2 wearing the out side of your tire? Or Did you just forget to add the negative sign? If it's like that it's almost like your whole axle is angled. Only reason I can think of for that to happen is one tire has more air in it or is a tad taller. I'd still think it was your caster in combination with the alignment causing the camber over a bent c or even axle tube as The chances of you swapping the axle (and I'm assuming not changing the caster or alignment) and still having the problem with another axle is low. I'd be willing to bet it's not the salience you've tried two.

884x4

Forgot the negative sign lol.
And I'm almost positive my caster is 7°. I had a 10 degree caster(stock uppers) so I pulled all the shims out of the lca mount. With a little math I figured I moved it about 3°.
I have played with the toe and it still has about -1° on each side at a 1/4" toe out.
Maybe I'll buy some adjustable uppers and put the caster at 5.5 °
I just wanted to be able to hold out until I had money for long arms

884x4

So today I messed with the toe.
I got one side to 0° Camber and one to -.5°.
Only problem was this is at like 1/4-1/2" toed out...
I put an angle finder on my axle, the front where the flat part is next to the diff. That showed me a 85° angle...my jeep was on about a 3° slope facing up so could my caster really only be around 3°?
Or am I just going about finding my caster all wrong? Lol.
Would y'all say pushing my caster forward so I could bring my toe to spec and camber to spec would be a good idea?

884x4

Found this chart



So by me measuring by the diff I was really off a couple degrees because the pitch of the knuckles/Cs.
Compensating for the driveway angle my hep was on it was truly a 86° or so angle on my diff, meaning I really have a 5-6° caster. From what I know at 4.5" of lift that's not bad and actually better than the stock 7° angle.
Well just talking to myself here guys, may throw the 1 ton ruff stuff steering on this weekend hopefully so we will see how I can get the toe set vs camber with that steering.