Bastard Pack To Fix Sag and Return to Stock Height
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Bastard Pack To Fix Sag and Return to Stock Height
I have a '96 Cherokee with extremely saggy stock leafs currently on it. I want to create a bastard pack that will bring the Jeep back to stock height. I do not want to even attempt removing any main spring mounting bolts (I am 100% certain I will have major problems doing that) and simply replacing them so I am looking at building a bastard pack so I can keep the main leafs bolted in place and not have to touch them.
I have read many threads and know the procedure but most all of them have to deal with creating a lift higher than stock. I also learned that it is pretty much trial and error to determine the exact height achieved but i am looking for some suggestions on how I may get close to stock height.
Obviously the leafs currently on the Jeep are in bad shape. I already have a brand new set of early '90s S10 springs that I picked up for $40 off of Craigslist so those should not have any fatigue to them at all (the guy said they have been in his garage for about five years but have never been installed on a vehicle).
I am already thinking that I need to use the S10 main so it can at least fully support my very week XJ main but not sure if I should also use other S10s and/or XJs with it. I want to bring the height as close to stock as possible so I don't require any other modifications. Will just using the S10 main still take the height higher than stock?
Any thoughts out there?
I have read many threads and know the procedure but most all of them have to deal with creating a lift higher than stock. I also learned that it is pretty much trial and error to determine the exact height achieved but i am looking for some suggestions on how I may get close to stock height.
Obviously the leafs currently on the Jeep are in bad shape. I already have a brand new set of early '90s S10 springs that I picked up for $40 off of Craigslist so those should not have any fatigue to them at all (the guy said they have been in his garage for about five years but have never been installed on a vehicle).
I am already thinking that I need to use the S10 main so it can at least fully support my very week XJ main but not sure if I should also use other S10s and/or XJs with it. I want to bring the height as close to stock as possible so I don't require any other modifications. Will just using the S10 main still take the height higher than stock?
Any thoughts out there?
#2
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 Inline
I follow what you are getting at but a Dorman replacement stock spring would also have all new bushings and would be much easier to reproduce stock height. Most people do Bastard packs to get a cheap lift not recreate stock height and if the leafs are sagging now that top leaf left in won't be worth much in support.
#3
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Year: 1994
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Trial and error man.
You're just gonna have to start with the main and see where you're at.
I'd probably remove the second longest from the xj pack and use the one from the S-10 pack for axle wrap prevention.
I personally feel like the one good leaf will fatigue quickly so perhaps two will hold you up longer.
No way to really know if you'll be over stock height after that.
You're just gonna have to start with the main and see where you're at.
I'd probably remove the second longest from the xj pack and use the one from the S-10 pack for axle wrap prevention.
I personally feel like the one good leaf will fatigue quickly so perhaps two will hold you up longer.
No way to really know if you'll be over stock height after that.
#5
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Year: 1996
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Thanks. I have already watched this video and read several how-to threads. I know the steps involved and feel comfortable doing it - I'm just trying to take a best guess at what combinations of leafs to use to get my ride height back to stock with minimal lift.
#6
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You could put some air shocks in the back for now untill u get it figured out. Will bring the rear end right up and feel good again. My 01 was pretty bad untill I put them on.that will buy me time till it gets warm enough to deal with the leafs.
#7
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In reality, I have bigger problems lurking. I have a couple of spots where the frame rails are rotting (hence the reason I don't want to try to completely replace the springs). I'm thinking they are probably not fixable but I need to keep this Jeep on the road for as long as I can. Right now the exhaust needs replaced from the manifold back. I can't do that until I get the springs fixed because exhaust is sitting on the cross member and axle because of the sagging springs. I am trying to keep this thing going at as little cost possible right now because it might not be around much longer.
At the moment I am trying to negotiate a price on a used exhaust from the manifold back. Someone has the whole assembly already off the jeep with pipes, muffler, converter, and O2 sensors all intact. Any ideas what a fair price for that might be?
At the moment I am trying to negotiate a price on a used exhaust from the manifold back. Someone has the whole assembly already off the jeep with pipes, muffler, converter, and O2 sensors all intact. Any ideas what a fair price for that might be?
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#8
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Year: 2001
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If u dont plan on having this jeep for ever and are just trying to get by with a cheap fix then I would defiantly just go with gabriel air shocks. They were like $70 for the set from auto zone and are well worth it. $50 max for the exhaust. Who knows if the sensors are even good.
#9
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Year: 1996
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If u dont plan on having this jeep for ever and are just trying to get by with a cheap fix then I would defiantly just go with gabriel air shocks. They were like $70 for the set from auto zone and are well worth it. $50 max for the exhaust. Who knows if the sensors are even good.
#10
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You don't say how much lift you need from the bastard pack to get back to level. Just did a bastard pack and the initial full pack under the xj main gave me 4 1/2 inches. You state that the s-10 springs are new, there's no telling how much the full pack would give you. With mine, taking out the bottom spring, which appeared to be an overload/helper spring gave me 3 inches of lift. I have a brand new set of add-a-springs from my rough country kit that RC claims will give you 1 1/2" to 2" lift you need them. PM me if you need them, I never even messed with them because I needed 3". Good Luck with doing the bastard pack and not taking the main springs off. Not saying it can't be done but it will have a very low fun factor. Happy Jeepin'
#11
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Year: 99 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6
Good luck drilling through the stock main leaf with it still on the jeep...No way I could do it.
For stock height I would try
Main xj
Main s10 with ends cut
2nd s10
S10 overload flat leaf
On my jeep at 3in lift I have
Main xj
S10 main cut
2nd s10
3rd s10 (not the flat one) (I don't have an overload on mine)
Extended shackles
For stock height I would try
Main xj
Main s10 with ends cut
2nd s10
S10 overload flat leaf
On my jeep at 3in lift I have
Main xj
S10 main cut
2nd s10
3rd s10 (not the flat one) (I don't have an overload on mine)
Extended shackles
#12
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Year: 1996
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Anyone else out there do the bastard pack without removing the XJ main? Any tips on drilling it out to 3/8?
Last edited by bradford0113; 03-16-2017 at 04:25 PM.
#13
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You will have to drill the Cherokee main spring to accept the 3/8" bolt. Don't use a smaller bolt through the rest, disaster will come quickly. You might pull off drilling it with the main spring still installed but it will be hairy at best. Super slow drill with plenty of cutting oil and pray hard that you don't get your wrist broke when the bit bites into the spring. If you have the ability to drill the spring installed, you have the ability to take the springs out from under the xj and do it. Happy Jeepin'
#14
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I have the ability to take them out but this Jeep is so rusty underneath that I am almost 100% certain stuff is gonna break if I try. I will try my luck drilling the hole with the main still intact.