So you guys are saying lock the front before the rear? If i do end up locking the rear are there any drawbacks besides the chirpping/hopping?

 

your rear tires will wear a bit faster, the rear end will make popping and clicking noises. and the rear end will slide out a bit easier on slick roads. but once you get used to it, it isn't too bad at all. i guess the other small drawback is that the lunchboxes for the rear are more expensive than the front around
$450

 

This is true and often their is a wait.

 

Hello everyone
I am new to this site also but an old four wheeler. my first taste was a 46 ******* and i've been hooked ever since I've built toyotas, chevys, and broncos, but wanted something between the two so I stumbled on an 88 wagoneer while building a 96 s10 blazer, finished the blazer and when I sold it i got a 94 cherokee as partial trade.

Thanks to this thread I have been very well informed during the build of my wagoneer. I like the fact that it is the same as a cherokee but with four head lights. I will post pics at a later date. I recently discovered that the 94 has an 8.25 and the 88 has a dana 35. I want to swap axles but have a question about traction devices, your lunch box locker looks a lot like a detriot locker that I love dispite it's quirks. Is it the same?? I also notice some differences in the front axle, is the later one better in any way? I also like how clean the engine compartment is in the 94 and it has the HO but the 88 runs strong even with a low cylinder. would it be worth swapping the engine? any feed back will help and thank you for all the information I have already gotten from you.

 

It acts the same but a detroit is a full case locker and the lunchbox just replaces the spiders

 

No it is not ridiculous and I stated why in my post, what is ridiculous is stock gear and 33's. Yes you CAN but just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. 31's and stock 3.55's are doable but going to 4.10's will make a very noticeable difference. The amount of welding is very nominal and if he can't weld dang near everyone knows someone who does. The you can get an 8.8 for the same price if not cheaper than just the cost of a set of gears and bearings, not including labor if you have to pay someone to install them. The 8.8 swap is the best bang for your buck.

edit: not to mention the OP would see less MPG loss with 4.10's and 31's than with the stock 3.55's and 31's.

 

Thanks for the help guys, its going to be a slow process buy i'll get it. Im probably going to start of with a spartan in the front and go from there.

 

8.25 come in 29 spline as well. Read the tag on your diff .

 

Anyone know the bolt pattern on a stock 96 cherokee?

 

They're all 5x4.5

 

Thank you.

 

Do stock cherokees come with tow hooks?

 

Well that's simple, look at yours and see if there are tow hooks
but i'm almost positive you don't have any

 

I've seen a stock front skid plate with hooks on it. by no means is it something I would trust for a good recovery point




anyway here's how I would build a jeep on the cheap

8.8 rear axle, 31 spline, factory limited slip, 4.10 gears
ruffstuff swap kit $130
D30 front axle from a 4cyl xj - 4.10 gears
297x (ABS) axle shafts - load them with spicer 760 ujoints and full circle clips $90
"junkyard" brake lines (dodge dakota brand new at o'reilly or whatever model)
zj coils and 2" coil spacers
stock rear leafs, inboarded under the frame rails with ruffstuff brackets/shackles with DIY military wrap (not very road friendly be careful!)
shocks off craigslist or bilsteins
zj tie rod, durango gear box, JCR spacer

here's where you spend your money-
rubicon double shear bracket & track bar
serious offroad long arms
rock sliders
33X12.5" meats, deep offset rims
aussie locker front
frame stiffeners

^^bangin a$$ cherokee for relatively cheap

 

Some of what you said in here is very relative to other factors. You will also notice a big difference with stock tires going from 3.55 to 4.10 gears, and I would say that the MPG loss would depend on the type of driving (obviously having 4.10's would make the Jeep more "drivable", but IMHO I don't think its worth it to regear if just going to 31's. If you plan to go bigger, definitely consider it.

To the OP, if it was my Jeep and I was 18 on a limited budget and trying to lift it, I would focus on doing it right and well, rather then seeing how high I can get it with the $ in my wallet. As said before, the amount of money you need to spend as you increase your suspension height is is pretty much exponential.

As well, terrain can influence your priorities for spending money on the Jeep. For some Jeepers, the limiting factor of their Jeep might usually be the open differential, but for many others the lack of ground clearance, or even lack of power, depending on what you're into. Finally, always keep in mind that when you lift a Jeep, you still have to maintain it and repair it, and possibly even more than when it was stock (increased stress on joints and other components, etc)